Fatman Fab frame Stub

[faucet47custom]

I was browsing Fatman's site dreaming, scheming, and planning and I came across their Mustang II IFS stub kit:cool:. I was wondering if anyone has seen this or tried it. They have an application for the Dodge and I am contemplating doing it. I don't plan on keeping my car stock in the drivetrain/suspension department so I am not worried about being original. One of my main goals is to be able to enjoy this car and drive it more than just weekend cruises. This car is one day going to belong to my step-son. I plan on it being around for many years to come.

PS I don't know how to paste a link so forgive me for not puting it on here. I do know if you got to FATMANFAB.com on their catalog, PAGE 6 is where I found it.

[Plymouthy Adams]

IMO, cost is excessive..to use their IFS..they sell an additional subframe for 600.00 and then on top of that the cost of welding this in if you don't do your own work...the Mustang II is set up to install on straight frame rails..

[greg g]

Just relocate the shocks to brackets on teh frame, and you will have all the supposed benefits of the MII suspension. By the way does any one remember what those POS's drove like?? I do, and they certainly not anything to write home about.

New springs and relocated shocks and fresh swaybar hardware, will give you a good riding and handling car.

[james curl]

I believe that Fatman advertises his sub frame kit for MoPars complete at $3800.00. I have a friend who started a 41 Dodge luxury liner coupe using the Fatman stub frame. Two other friends and myself helped him cut his old frame off and install the clip. He had all of the parts to complete the front end and at that time he had $2800.00 in it. He traded it to another friend as down payment on a real nice 56 Mercury two door hardtop. The other friend and his son only have Ford products, about 15 very nice Fords. He tells me he is holding it for me, said I could have everything for $3800.00. I have no place to store it, it is just a roller. I striped the car for the first friend and used the engine in my 48 Plymouth after rebuilding it. I have the cut off stub from the dodge and am using it to mock up the Fatman dropped uprights. That is how I discovered the problem with the steering arms hitting the ends of the A frame before hitting the stops on the uprights.

[David Strieb]

My P10 has a fatman subframe, a frames, rack and pinion, 10" discs. I know the subframe was $900.00. Not sure what everything else added up to when all was said and done. Don't use the stock mustang upper a frames, you won't be able to get the front aligned right (expensive lesson for me). On my car, I should have ordered the shorter of the A frames, as I had a tire clearance problem and had to run P20570R15's using the longer set. Make sure if you have someone do it, they KNOW how. The guy that did mine screwed it up and I had to have a bunch of work redone on my nickel. Fatman has great tech support and makes a great product.

[thrashingcows]

IMO, cost is excessive..to use their IFS..they sell an additional subframe for 600.00 and then on top of that the cost of welding this in if you don't do your own work...the Mustang II is set up to install on straight frame rails..

I tend to agree....With a few small upgrades the stock suspension is more then capable of performing as well, if not better, then the Mustang II front suspension. Also the Mustang II suspension originally was never designed for cars as heavy as ours.

I personally prefer the original, over engineered Ma'mopar stuff....

[Plymouthy Adams]

I did my complete upgrade to power R&P, Disc brakes, extra heavy duty sway bar, shocks, wheels tires and all for 100.00 and one weekend in the shop...

[Tim Keith]

I once cut the subframe from an AMC Pacer. It had rack and pinion

and 11 inch disks. It is is welded to the frame and easy to remove.

With some fabrication that could have been reworked to look better.

The upper and lower control arms are attached to this unit as are

the coil springs and steering rack.

The Pacer x-member was ugly(rusty). I left it in the salvage yard but

I think it would work on many vehicles. A few Pacers had a manual

rack(hard to find). Most NOS AMC parts are cheap, but in 20 years

some parts might not be available.

The aftermarket Mustang II has good geometry... depends. Fatman

is plenty strong for normal use. No suspension is perfect for all driving

conditions, depends on your purpose. Some designs can be adjusted

many ways. Other design are very durable. Some are flat out cheap.

Later Mustangs had struts, the car handled okay, although struts

are not optimal. Some of the BMW suspension are complex, but

more for luxury than handing, others are great for handling. Even

a dropped tube axle can work well for most road conditions when

properly set up.

From a set of OEM spindles and a good design manual you could probably

build the entire thing, but Fatman is good enough for most customs.

[greg g]

Ford Aerostar's have a bolt on X member from which the goodies hang. Vehicle is similar in weight, and a bit more available in the yards than Pacer stuff. similar concept, but you may need to fab some spacers and mounting items. There is a thread some where on the web regarding putting them under early f100's to replace the solid axle and leaf springs.

Also crown vic and whatever the merc clone is but they are pretty wide for mopar applications.

[grady hawkins]

I am using the fat man sub frame and Mustang II rack and pinion power steering with 10"' disc brakes on my 47 Dodge with good results. I have replaced the original springs and shocks with a QA1 coil over package which allows height adjustments. I am running 235x75 r15 and have not had any clearance problems. I am using 10"' 550 rate springs which give a bit of a stiff ride but the car handles better on curves here in the winding mountain roads

[David Strieb]

Once I had all the proper parts in place, with p225 75r 15's I couldn't turn the steering wheel more than a quarter turn without the tires hitting the fenders. The p205's solved that, but the shorter a frames would have been a better fit for my car. I'd recomend fatman to anyone who wanted modern suspension. My car corners flat and steers with ease (non power rack). No more than a half turn of the steering wheel gets me around most any corner. I'm a happy camper.

[Tony Cipponeri]

I am using the stock suspension, on my 50 Plymouth ,with a 360 V8 and I am real happy with it. I am not driving it at LeMans, just on the freeways. Tony C

[faucet47custom]

I didn't mention that I am planning on doing an airbag setup. I am willing to do upgrades if I am going to keep a stock style suspension. I have seen Tank's disc brake upgrade thread and have gotten some ideas from that. Any other kits or setups that anyone has used?

[duke460bb]

I have a 47 business coupe and welded in the fatman stub frame with Mustang II tubular arms, rack and pinion, and shockwave air suspension. Engine is a 5.7l Hemi and running 225/50/17 tires.

BTW installed a Thoerbecke Brothers triangulated 4 link and ford 9" rear end also on shockwaves.

It was a pricey install but smooth ride and handles like a go cart.

[faucet47custom]

Duke, I would love to see some pictures of your suspension if you have any.

[chopt50wgn]

I put the Fatman stub on my 50 Ply wagon. It looks great and will ride an bunch better than the old stock setup.

[Dave Bohn]

I'm curious what are the benefits of a new sub-frame. My D24 rides extremely smooth but my only complaint is heeling over during sharp cornering. It has the front anti-sway bar already. Does simply relocating the shocks fix the heeling over? Or is that why folks go to a sub-frame? I always learn something here.

[Plymouthy Adams]

depends on the ballons you running also...

[martybose]

I'm curious what are the benefits of a new sub-frame. My D24 rides extremely smooth but my only complaint is heeling over during sharp cornering. It has the front anti-sway bar already. Does simply relocating the shocks fix the heeling over? Or is that why folks go to a sub-frame? I always learn something here.

The swaybar on our old Mopar's aren't real effective; You would need a larger diameter one, probably better braced and connected as well. If memory serves someone here found another sway that would fit.

Marty

[Frank Elder]

I think it was a cuda front swaybar, it is beefier, I wonder if you could add the rear bar too, somehow?

[Plymouthy Adams]

I changed mine as I need to loose the high mounts of the original as it interferred with the forward mount radiator and AC condenser..

[chopt50wgn]

I changed mine cause I wanted rack steering and a better sway bar and better braking.I am also putting in a IRS with inboard discs , so this thing will handle .

[David Strieb]

You'll love your fatman setup. I'm not driving lemans, or any other race track, but I do DRIVE my car (P10) daily in city and freeway traffic (Seattle/Tacoma). Stops on a dime, turns on a pin, and rides like a dream. 350 4 bolt/700R4/ 10" for drive train. I've already been called an A##hole from a member of this forum for having a gm drive train, I'll get in line with that member for doing what ever you do to your ride. It's MINE, and I [i]DRIVE[/i] it. It's YOUR'S, do what YOU want with it......tired of the my way or no way bs on this forum....just an obversation not aimed at anyone, .....My '36 chrysler and '38 dodge are 99% mopar, Lhead powered and DRIVEN, what about yours??

A gent once told me that he only drove his car on nice days. My resposne was "Any day is a nice day in my mopar"

[chopt50wgn]

Well Dave, I am putting a mild 360 with a 727 auto in my wagon.

I don't judge anyone who does what they want to their car. Their car, their rules.

I have been an all Mopar guy for 40 yrs now. I don't have much time for anyone who can't just appreciate a car and have to call others names .

[Tim Keith]

What exactly could be improved with the OEM setup? Other than

what's already been done. Does it have bump steer? Or is it that

some of the OEM suspension components are obsolete? With disk

brake and cavalier steering its probably good enough for me.