Joe Flanagan Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 I was looking at the line that goes from the block to the back of the oil pressure gauge. I undid one of the fittings and the inside of the line looks pretty gummed up. I'd like to replace it but I found that I couldn't get the fitting off the back of the gauge. It's tight and I am reluctant to put a lot of pressure on it for fear I'll damage the gauge. Guess I'll try some PB Blaster or some other stuff on it. There was some discussion a little while ago about that short section of rubber hose that goes between the two sections of metal line. Is that available anywhere? Mine is cracked wide open in a couple of places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Search for a post from Norm C he found a brake line that can be subbed in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 I had the same problem and was just as wary about tearing up my guage. But looking at the materials involved, I figgered I'd try cutting the line out completely and making a new one. Now you can put a wrench all the way around the ornery flare nut. But first, the setup: the pickups have the gauge cluster that can be removed from the dash. Removing the other guages from the cluster, you now have a 'box' to clamp in a vise with wood blocks to keep from tearing up the cluster housing. Park the cluster in the vertical position so that you can see the gauge face & the flare nut. Using a small propane torch, heat the nut by passing the flame across the nut slowly, like once a second. Eventually, whatever crud is up in the gauge will start to ooze out. Keep an eye on the threads, crud might start bubbling out of them too. When that happens, put down the torch, pick up the wrench and see if that nut will budge CLOCKWISE...yep, try to tighten it first, this usually breaks any corrosion on the threads on the inside of the gauge. Then back the nut off slowly. If it hangs up, remove the wrench & apply more heat. The trick is taking it slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Joe, I sent you a PM about the oil pressure gauge hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Thanks 49 Dodge. I understand oil actually travels up this tube, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybose Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 (edited) My 47 Plymouth originally had a steel line from the gauge through the firewall, then a short rubber hose, then a steel line to the block. When the rubber hose started weeping I researched AN fittings and hoses, and wound up with a straight NPT to AN -3 fitting in the block, a brake fitting adapter to AN -3 fitting on the end of the steel line coming through the firewall, and a 2 foot long teflon-lined steel-braided -3 brake hose with a 90 degree fitting on the block end and a straight fitting on the other end. The hose was pre-made, and rated at 3000 PSI. Works perfectly. All of the parts were sourced from http://www.anplumbing.com Marty Edited January 10, 2010 by martybose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 I took my old one to a place that does hydraulic lines for construction equipment and tractors etc. In 15 minutes and for 10 bucks I had a nice new hose rated at 600 lbs/sq in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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