Don Coatney Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 solid state pumps do not have motors or bruhses, gears or vanes..the unit is basically an osciallator device, thus the solid state.. So this oscillator device does something. Does it move a diaphram? Is a solid state pump a diaphram pump that is controlled by a solid state device? I still say to call a pumping device a solid state pump is a misnomer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 look here for more info on the pierburg pump:http://www.ms-motor-service.com/ximages/pg_pi_0034_de_web.pdf it's the EF1 on top of page 3, translator says it's called a sliding vane or vane type pump. Can you translate this page into something I can understand? I am not good at German. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 So this oscillator device does something. Does it move a diaphram? Is a solid state pump a diaphram pump that is controlled by a solid state device? I still say to call a pumping device a solid state pump is a misnomer. Don..I went looking for a breakdown of this style pump..could not find it..it does mention that there are no vlaves, diaphrams etc..however like yourself I believe there has to be a suck/blow operation..the osciallator is just the means to operate the device at a set frequeency..the unit does have a built in pressure sensor to turn the pump off and on without need for a feedback fuel line..I found one reference to a SU model that indeed is similar and refers to a piston style operation..the Facet pump (know known by Carter and Purolator) is polarity conscious..do not cross the + & - bad karma...however as it is isolated it can be used on either polarity vehicle by proper wire orientation...I have used these in avariety of automobiles, if not mounted on rubber standoffs it hammers to no end in operation..very loud...isolation mounts renders these virtually soudless.. as for the misnomer...solid state...in electronic terms this is correct but in mechanical language this is impossible.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 (edited) Can you translate this page into something I can understand? I am not good at German. Using translate.google.com on the PDF link: http://translate.google.com/translate?prev=hp&hl=en&js=y&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ms-motor-service.com%2Fximages%2Fpg_pi_0034_de_web.pdf&sl=de&tl=en&history_state0= On page 3 is says the E1F is a "Vane pump mechanism" and has a DC motor. Looking around the web for "vane pump" gets this: Edited August 26, 2009 by TodFitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted August 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 correct. like i said: sliding vane or vane type pump. i'm going to install it today, i hope, so i'll post a photo as soon as i'm done with the setup and wiring. still need to solve that kill switch problem. must be hooked up to the distributor somehow, i guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted September 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 installed the new fuel pump yesterday, works fine! now i don't need to crank the engine forever after it sat a while. just turn the key, pull a hidden switch and the carb is full and she fires up right away! only that little noise from the pump is quite disturbing in the beginning... i tried to seal the old pump, but no chance, so i kicked it out completely and sealed the opening with a steel plate. there's a little mechnical noise now, guess the rocker touches the plate, is that possible? i'll take it out again and search for traces on the metal tonight. also i found the vaccum source on the intake. someone had disabled it with a cap. wipers are moving now, too! happy, happy fred:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted September 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 also found the source of that mechanical noise: one of the attachment screws was too long:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 My mechanical fuel pump failed a few weeks ago, so I bypassed it with an electric pump. That not being pure enough, I decided to rebuild or replace the mechanical pump and locate the electric pump by the tank for starting and standby use. (Now where did I get that idea?) I pulled my mechanical fuel pump last week and fashioned a cover plate for the gaping hole in the block until I can rebuilid or replace the pump. Sure enough, I used the original bolts to secure the cover plate. What was I thinking? Didn't someone post something about a strange noise, and bolts being too long? Yep, when I started the car, it went bang, bang, bang. I was able to remove the upper bolt with difficulty. I eased it out,with delicate application of force, so as not to strip the threads of the hole or break the bolt. The bolt was badly bent from the camshaft lobe hitting it. Of course, the cover plate is much thinner than the flanges of the fuel pump. I replaced the bent bolt with a shorter bolt. When I get the fuel pump rebuilt or replaced, I'll get a new bolt the same length as the original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 My mechanical fuel pump failed a few weeks ago, so I bypassed it with an electric pump. That not being pure enough, I decided to rebuild or replace the mechanical pump and locate the electric pump by the tank for starting and standby use. (Now where did I get that idea?)I pulled my mechanical fuel pump last week and fashioned a cover plate for the gaping hole in the block until I can rebuilid or replace the pump. Sure enough, I used the original bolts to secure the cover plate. What was I thinking? Didn't someone post something about a strange noise, and bolts being too long? Yep, when I started the car, it went bang, bang, bang. I was able to remove the upper bolt with difficulty. I eased it out,with delicate application of force, so as not to strip the threads of the hole or break the bolt. The bolt was badly bent from the camshaft lobe hitting it. Of course, the cover plate is much thinner than the flanges of the fuel pump. I replaced the bent bolt with a shorter bolt. When I get the fuel pump rebuilt or replaced, I'll get a new bolt the same length as the original. I hope there was no damage to the cam lobe. I learned a lesson here if I ever elect to replace my mechanical pump and use a dummy plate to cover the hole. Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 I wonder what the bolts hit? The excentric (sp?) for the fuel pump isnt that wide. You may have hit the space between that and the next valve lobe or maybe even that valve lobe. Scary stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 you're right, scary stuff... this thread is how old now, 3, 4 weeks? anyway, guess who died on me on sunday? right, my new pierburg elctrical pump! i fixed the front brakes and wanted to take the car for a test run. switched on the ignition, pulled the switch for the pump and wanted to start when i noticed that there wasn't any noise from down there. checked the wiring and ground, still nothing. checked the pump and tried with direct wiring from the battery: still dead. i took the pump out of there and double checked: definitely dead. the coil is ok and didn't burn, but the damn thing won't move. now i'm wondering, does this have anything to do with positive ground? can't be... or can it? starting to get frustrated here, fall's arrived and i'm still not on the road yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 (edited) if the pump has two wires odds are the pump body is isolated therefore as long as you connected red to positive and black to negative you ought to be good to go (unless your pump is European and then is it blue and brown) would be good idea to verify this how many miles did the pump happen to have on it? have you by chance had the tank resealed...is there a chance some sealant has jammed the pump rotor? have you tried to tap the end farthest from the pump valve to see if by chance a brush is sticking open..it being new it should not be..however you never know...could have lost its hermatic seal and messed up the brush...if this was old stock the fuel additives could very well have had their way with the pump.. Edited October 5, 2009 by Tim Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 it's brandnew, i installed it about 3 weeks ago and it just sat there. had fuel in it, though, so it wasn't dry. ran fine for about 5mins in total... it has a + and a - pole and i just connected pos on pos and neg on neg. the other way around the pump was spinning in the wrong direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 I did a quick look see online for the brandname..looks like it is a toss up between Hong Kong or China as country of orgin...however that does not mean that is the problem..most pumps I saw there were high pressure FI pumps..what model do you have.. anyway at three weeks and no miles..I believe I would be returning the item..PITA but what else ya going to do... can you by chance find a Purolator/Carter rendiition of the famous Facet solid state pump in your area...I think it would be worth the effort to look..these are fantastic pumps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 hmm, pierburg is a german brand, that's why i chose it in the first place. they're available and said to be of good quality. maybe mine was assembled on a monday:rolleyes: it's a sliding vane or vane type pump, so i don't need a metering block or a run back line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 (edited) every pierburg I saw was country of orgin China/Hong Kong...forget the Facet brand I mentioned as it 12 volt..reading you are positive ground I assume the pump is 6 volt.. http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/Pierburg.html hopefully you can exchange this and the next pump be a tad more reliable... Edited October 5, 2009 by Tim Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 hehehe, "alibaba.com":D these are copies, the stated bosch and pierburg numbers are an "equals that model" information. mine says "made in germany". broke anyway, so you see what its worth. like my new front shocks from andy bernbaum's, made in mexico. we'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 ouch......maybe you should have gotten one from China...either way..the failure is still not helping you any..today is Monday..maybe you can swap it out from the supplier right quick and get the puppy fired up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 yeah, i guess so. i'll keep you updated when the new pump arrives, changing is a matter of 10 min. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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