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Posted

Tim, the neighbor who has now moved is, or was the best body man in central Texas. Has built very many hot rods and usually paints them black. The hardest thing he ever tried was chopping a 55 cheverolet pick up. He cut the windshield by using duct tape in many layers on both sides of the cut line and used the smallest nozzle on his sand blaster to cut the glass. He went through three windshields before getting one to install. After about a week on the road that windshield cracked. The 41 Dodge which he painted black was a very attractive car, you knew that something was different but it did not really looked chopped. If it was not parked next to another 41 Dodge most people would never guess that it was chopped.

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Posted

I don't want to modify my roofline either, although, as it can be seen by the pic attached, it would probably look good..... why I won't modify it.... because I know I can't.... yet.... if I had just a shell.... well, that would definitely be another story......

Allan

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Posted

cutting glass with a sandblaster..the patience of JOB...I have blasted designs on glass..most detailed work I ever done was shrinking the Norton 850 Commando logo and putting it on very thin double sided tape then cutting the letters out with an exacto knife..took a bit but when I frosted the mirrors on that bike..man what a view..them things got praise everywhere I took that bike..The man who bought it was nervous and asked where to buy them if he should break one...

Posted

Norm,

I don't believe mercs should be sectioned, nor ours... mainly because of the fenders and the way they meld into the doors.... that is one of the things I like about the styling......the buick sedanette is another one I wouldn't section.... same reason. I saved that pic as soon as I saw it, because I find that its a perfect example of a good chop, and a good chop on a model like mine (however, mines a 4 door)....

As for sectioning, if you've ever seen the Monster Garage episode that had all the "old masters" together to do up an old chebby (if I'm not mistaken) and they chopped and sectioned it... if you notice when he's driving it at the end, he's all scrunched up in the drivers seat.... that I did not like (although the car looked superb....)....

Allan

Posted

31Packardhotrod.jpg

This was my 31 Packard that had a chop top and if you look closely that me by the front fender. It had a Cadilac V8 tank engine for power set up with a LaSal transmission. The top was about 6 inch high at the windshild. Big Big car weighed in at about 2 and 1/2 tons! One great fun machine. Jon

(1961 picture taken)

And the car was painted at Earl Shibes

Posted
cutting glass with a sandblaster..the patience of JOB...I have blasted designs on glass..most detailed work I ever done was shrinking the Norton 850 Commando logo and putting it on very thin double sided tape then cutting the letters out with an exacto knife..took a bit but when I frosted the mirrors on that bike..man what a view..them things got praise everywhere I took that bike..The man who bought it was nervous and asked where to buy them if he should break one...

Acid etching gets you about the same look. Not quite as white as blasting, though. Pick up some from Michaels if you want to give it a try.

Posted

The original ''retired hobby'' I had chosen was stained glass, which I have ben doing as a hobbie for 10 or 15 years. Anyway , etching with the acid paste works really good. Getting back to my car : I think if the roof could be pancaked (?) and the rear window leaned forward,.but , then the rear window glass is curved to match the exsisting roof...............what do you think???

Posted

I didn't consider a different rear glass, that maybe an answer, on the other hand, this one is already here and it is basically free. That reminds me............how do you get the trim off from the front and rear windows ???.............Tim , got another picture for you to post. ( rear hangers )

Posted

Knighthawk,

When pancaking the roof, if you looked at the article I mentioned, the cutting is mainly done on the "side" of the rear window, as well as above and below..... keeping the window intact. You may have to add metal to some areas, but you wouldn't necessarily have to change the window size..... the "bubble" usually forms above the rear window due to the excess metal in the rear.... once its cut above and to the sides, the rest should conform....

My opinion anyways....

Allan

Posted

I'm still studying the lnes of the roof, for the chop..I got most of if figured out, the rear quarter window will be the most challanging, still working on that. Remember this is a 4 door. Where i'm looking now is the area from below the rear window and first part of the trunk. The trunk has more compund curves than a potatoe chip ! I'm thinking when I lay down the window, there's going to be a up turn or high spot , at the top of the trunk, meaning the top portion of the trunk will have to pancaked or flattened. Any comments on this ???

Posted

I think if I was up to cutting the sedan..look for a sqaured off back and the grafting of a minivan rear lift gate..go for a neo-panel look. Then throw a few weasels from Who Framed Roger Rabbit in it and head off to Toontown

blea blea blea..Thats all Folks

Posted

I am looking for a flatter rear window , than what's in the '48 Dodge. I want to lay it down a little more. Do you guys know if the Plymouth is flatter , as I think I know where I can get one pretty cheap.?

Posted

This may be a little small for what you want to do but I think I have a donor cab that could give up the rear window opening from one of these pickups. mytruck.jpg

Posted

I'm not familiar with the early '40's truck glass, but the Pilot-House ('48-'53) glass is all simple flat laminated auto glass, except for the corner glass. If Flat glass will work for you, you could have any auto glass shop cut a piece to any size you need.

Merle

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Posted

Merle I believe he would need the opening from a donor vehicle to blend into his roof section. The actual glass if flat is the easy part.

Posted

Knowing that the removal and installion of the metal opening with the pinch weld was assumed...another word to the wise here is that most trucks of this era did not have a garnish molding but had an inner shell usually half way down the back of the cab..be prepared to cut both panels to remove the section..piece of chalk and a template to guide you will go a long way. Also find you a truck cab that has rubber available at a reasonable cost..

Posted

Tim the 39-47s do have a garnish molding on the inside. The window is installed with the same stuff you use in that U channel for door windows.

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Posted

thanks guys , for the quick responce ! Lots of good thoughts here. Never thought about flat glass, maybe , if the opening is the right size, but I'm thinking a slight curve will work the best. I guess it's off to the junk yard !

Posted

just thought you guys would like to know, I did the ''chop job'' , 3'' on A pillar, 3'' on B pillar, about 2or 2 1/2 on C pillar , D, whereever it fit. Top of rear window came down 2'', rear of window , down about 1/4 ''. Result: the hump is pretty much gone. Now, I got to finish fitting the doors, rear quarter windows, and alot of welding. I've got some pictures , if and when I figure out how to post them.....................thanks guys

Posted

Hi,

Just posting Knighthawks pics..... Because of the size knighthawk, all you have to do is click on post reply, go down to the "manage attachments" button, where a new window will open, click on the browse button beside the line (upload a file from your computer), select your photo, and click upload.... (which is what I did). You see each of the files appear in the "current attachments list". Since the files are under 71 Kb (71 000 bytes), it'll take them automatically.... if they are over that size, you have to resize them manually.

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