Where to get hub puller?

[speedyshark]

I was looking in the book(for '47 D-24) and noticed to remove the rear wheel a puller tool is needed. I will be working on the brakes next so where can I get the wheel hub puller? Do I have to buy it or can it be rented?

[RobertKB]

I believe you can rent them from a number of automotive stores and new ones appear on ebay quite often. I bought a new one off the bay a couple of years ago and it works really well.

[randroid]

speedyshark,

A few years ago it was mentioned here that if the vehicle is running (or can be towed), back-off the nuts a just a tad and drive in tight circles. You'll hear the drums break loose; I've tried it and it works.

-Randy

[BobT-47P15]

First--- if you have not tried to remove the drums, I would try.

Sometimes they come off a lot more easily than you think.

Sometimes...Not.

And then, the fight is on.

And the ol puller and BFH get in the picture.

Lots of guys here have finally won the battle and

can tell their stories.

[JIPJOBXX]

I rented one from a rental store! 15 dollars for 24 hrs. Use the yellow pages and check in your local area.

[Norm's Coupe]

I would buy one myself. Something may come up the day you rent it and you don't get to the job, or can't finish it. Then you end up with two or three days rental at $15 per day. That goes a long way toward paying for the tool, then it's yours forever. And, you'll probably need it someday again down the road. You can always use a good stout puller.

I personally don't like renting anything. To me it's a waste of money, because after you return it you have nothing to show for the money. Then if you need it again someday, you'll have to spend that much or more to rent it again.

[Don Coatney]

When I have rented tools they are frequently broken or missing parts when I get them. And when I return them they want to charge me for the broken/missing parts. I have never paid for these broken/missing parts but I will never again rent a tool that I can buy for less than twice the rental fee.

[speedyshark]

I will more than likely look for a heavy duty puller. I was able to get the front brakes of the extra frame '50 meadowbrook (now need to see if the D-24 has the same half cylinder on top and bottom) I assume the puller will be needed for the back? Where would be a good place to find a heavy duty one? E-bay or is there a tool place to look at.

On a side note going to pick up a 4x8 sheet of 18 gauge metal to start on the floors. Got the sheet for $30 delivered with in five miles of my house.

[speedyshark]

I forgot to ask, What size is the rear lock nut on the drum?

[Norm's Coupe]

I assume you are talking about the castle nut that holds the drum on. You would probably need the parts manual for that, or measure the old one. (I don't have a D24 book). That said, you should be able to reuse the old nut. If not, just take it to the parts store and say; give me a new one of these. Works for me.

You see the pullers on ebay a lot.

[Frank Elder]

PN.-3-32-5.......Hex hd., S., 3/4 in.-16

PAGE 48, Axle--rear--cont'd

1946-1948 Dodge passenger car parts list

Handy little book, just not as many exploded diagrams as I'd like.

PS. Dodge shop manual

Rear axle data and specs. pg 24

Axle shaft nuts...............................MINIMUM 142 ft. lbs.

[speedyshark]

Thanks. So the center nut is a 3/4? Anyone have info on the special sleeve the book calls for C-745? Or is there something else I can use to slip over or in the seal?

[Zeke1953]

Kind of expensive, but well-made. Zeke

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT268_pg3.htm

[krodaddy]

Thanks. So the center nut is a 3/4? Anyone have info on the special sleeve the book calls for C-745? Or is there something else I can use to slip over or in the seal?

Thread size is 3/4-16, will require a 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 inch socket.

Don't know about the special sleeve. Are you removing the axel?

[speedyshark]

Not right now. I guess I was reading to far ahead.

[Normspeed]

What part of the country do you live in? Sometimes a member living nearby might offer some help.

[speedyshark]

I am in San Antonio Tx.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Thanks. So the center nut is a 3/4? Anyone have info on the special sleeve the book calls for C-745? Or is there something else I can use to slip over or in the seal?

This is the info on the rear axle seal protector tool. You don't need to use it. Just be careful if you remove/install the backing plate with a good or new seal in it. It's the sharp keyway machined in the axle shaft that can cut the lip of the seal that this tool protects.

Bob

[Normspeed]

Heck, you're right off I-10 like me. Just hop on the freeway, go east about 6-700 miles and you can use my puller:D

Seriously, I rented one for $10 per day a couple years ago. It was heavily used but still worked ok. A few months later I rented the same tool from the same shop and it was $20 per day. That ended my rentals. I scoured the auto swap meets until I found a very nice used Proto for $45.

[blueskies]

I bought mine on ebay for $45 if I remember right...

Don't forget to leave the big nut on the end of the axle when using the puller... When it busts loose, the nut will keep the drum from taking your head off as it flies across the garage.

Pete

[busycoupe]

The castlenut on a D24 needs a 1 1/4 inch socket. I bought a puller from a fellow that has an ebay store. It was an inexpensive puller, about $45, but it works well. I recommend buying one rather than renting. At $15/day to rent one, it would only take 3 days to cost as much as buying one.

[Norm's Coupe]

That puller for $45 is a good price. A Snap On puller like them will run close to $200.

If people have time you could look around at the swap meets and probably get them for about $20 or $30 used. I bought mine from a garage going out of business and got it for $20 back around 1996. Not long after at a swap meet I saw a guy that had new army surplus pullers in a nice steel case. He was selling them for about $45 each. About 7 AM when I first got there he had about a 4 x 8 trailer full of them. By about 2 or 3 PM when I walked by his booth he only had one or two left.

[old woolie]

I built one.Cut the bolt circle out of a bent wheel,welded 2 pieces of 2"x 1/4" angle iron perpendicular[sp?] to it and then welded a piece of 2"x1/4" flat stock across the other ends of the angle iron. Put the castle nut on backwards flush with the end of the axle,then used a hydraulic jack between the axle and the outer plate on the puller. A few pumps on the jack and a firm but gentle tap with a large hammer and they popped right off.

[speedyshark]

Borrowed one from a mechanic friend of mine. Took the hub cap off driver side rear and what did I see, only two nuts holding rim on. The other three studs were broken off. I thought I was going to have to weld a stud on to remove it , but no. Gave the drum a few raps with my BFH( another mechanic friend lived by this, every brake job he did he did the same to let the harmonics do the work) pulled the drum and came right off. I hope something is not wrong. I removed the hub caps from all other wheels and each rim only had 3 lugs holding each one on. Had to use the puller on the pass. rear and two whacks to turn it and pop goes the drum.I also had to use the puller on pass. front it was stuck, but came off. Thanks to all for the info. I will keep a look out for one to buy anyway. At least they are off now I can redo the brakes.

[Jerry Roberts]

I googled Snap-On hub puller and it showed model CJ129A for $166 in their on line catolog . Then I saw something that gave me a surprise ; made in China , I didn't expect that from Snap-On .