Plymouthy Adams Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 as you are falling just stamp your feet..you will build up a compressed cushion of air beneath you....(looks good on paper) Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 as you are falling just stamp your feet..you will build up a compressed cushion of air beneath you....(looks good on paper) Time for you to retire Tim......... Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Posted February 5, 2009 I installed the '37 Plymouth front shock mount on the passenger side of my '41 P12 wagon. I used a Gabriel 81676 shock that I got at AutoZone. No real problems other than having to add some washer spacers behind the upper mounting point to place the mount a little further away from the frame so that the top suspension arm didn't touch the shock. I also had to move the brake hose bracket over slightly. I am pleased with how this went since I drill holes a lot better than I weld so this was a practical alternative for me. I look foward to doing the driver's side and seeing what difference this makes. Jim Yergin Quote
greg g Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 Looks like a fairly easy adaptation. What does it look like with some weight ont he wheel, or with the A arm jacked up to simulate some weight on it??? Did you put anything behind the frame rail? Quote
blueskies Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 I installed the '37 Plymouth front shock mount on the passenger side of my '41 P12 wagon. Jim Yergin This looks great Jim. I had planned to do this same mod at some point on my '50. I noticed a few years ago that the Dodge trucks use the same shock mounts in a picture of Elmer Stange's 256 power Dodge truck. Curious about the details of the bolts. Are they long enough to run clear through the boxed frame, or did you get nuts inside the frame? I was thinking it would be good to put spacers inside the frame kind of like the steering box. Thoughts? Pete Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Posted February 5, 2009 Pete, I had thought the same thing and had dug out my extra steering box mounting plate, bolts and spacers. However, where the mount attaches, the inside portion of the frame curves in towards the engine compartment so there is not a straight shot across for spacers and bolts. I ended up just putting holes in the outside of the frame and then reached up from below where the frame opens up on the bottom, to place a flat washer, lock nut and nut on the grade eight bolts I used. It is a tight squeeze through that opening and I expect to hear some stray missing washers floating around inside when I drive the car but I did manage to get it fastened. The original bolts that were on the shock mounts would not have been long enough to pass through both sides of the frame. I assume there must have been nuts welded to the back side of the outer frame to hold the nuts on the cars and trucks that used these mounts. Jim Yergin Quote
greg g Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 Ok so a stupid question. If captured nuts were used on the stock applications, could holes be drilled and nuts welded to the frame outside and then bolted up, perhaps with a lock nut onthe backside??? Would the thickness of the nut screw up clearences? Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Posted February 5, 2009 Looks like a fairly easy adaptation. What does it look like with some weight ont he wheel, or with the A arm jacked up to simulate some weight on it???Did you put anything behind the frame rail? Greg, I used a floor jack to compress the suspension through its complete range of travel and it appears to work OK. The only thing I put behind the frame were flat washers and lock washers. I hope that it is strong enough. As I stated in my reply to Pete, I think the original shock mounts on the '37 Plymouth must have been attached in the same manner. Jim Yergin Quote
Young Ed Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 The trucks that used these don't have a boxed frame. Its just a U. So its quite easy to reach the inside and attach the nuts. Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Posted February 5, 2009 Ok so a stupid question. If captured nuts were used on the stock applications, could holes be drilled and nuts welded to the frame outside and then bolted up, perhaps with a lock nut onthe backside??? Would the thickness of the nut screw up clearences? Greg, I placed six washers between the frame and the upper bolt hole on the mount so I don't think the thickness of the nut would matter there, in lieu of the washers. I didn't need to use any spacing on the bottom bolt hole but it would probably work. I know it doesn't matter to you but your suggestion gets me back to my original problem, I don't want to rely on my welding abilities (or lack thereof). Jim Yergin Quote
greg g Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 Nor would I trust my welding equipment or skill for that application, But I have a couple friends that have both the skills and prper equipment. Where did you fing your shock mounts?? Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Posted February 5, 2009 Nor would I trust my welding equipment or skill for that application, But I have a couple friends that have both the skills and prper equipment. Where did you fing your shock mounts?? eBay. I have seen at least two other sets (Plymouth car and Dodge truck) for sale there since I bought mine. Jim Yergin Quote
blueskies Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 The trucks that used these don't have a boxed frame. Its just a U. So its quite easy to reach the inside and attach the nuts. I wonder if the guage of steel in the truck frame is much different than the passenger cars? I would think that since the car frame is boxed that it would be fine just bolted on from the outside. Maybe slip a plate inside the frame to distribute the bolt stresses if there's any worry about it... Pete Quote
Young Ed Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 Can't say I've ever measured but its not noticeably thicker. I agree the box should make it stronger then the truck frames. I guess you'd have too see if you can make a plate that would fit through the pocket. You could be slick and weld the nuts onto the plate too. Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Posted February 5, 2009 One other thing that I had to do was grind down the head of the bolt I installed to replace the original upper shock mount. That bolt holds the upper rubber bumper stop. The head of the replacement bolt touched the shock absorber so I "took a little off the top" on my bench grinder to create the necessary clearance. Jim Yergin 1 Quote
blueskies Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 ...You could be slick and weld the nuts onto the plate too... Now your think'n... I like it. Now to find a pair of the mounts... Pete Quote
Young Ed Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 Well until we came up with this slick plan I probably had some extra truck ones.... Quote
greg g Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 Ya know I mentioned this about 2 years ago, but would anybody listen? NOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! So a plate with nuts welded on slid into the pocket, a couple hole drilled to access the nuted plate and as they say in France Viola!Any body gonna start manufacturing these plates???? I think you might be more concerned than necessary with the thickness of the frame. There isn't a lot of force transfered from teh suspension to the frame. The only time it would be come critical is at the extreme top and bottom of the spring/shocks travel. Remember the shock is there to damp the springs motion not to accept the weight of the car. I know F1/F100 frame is not boxed and it not an issue there. If you lok at some of the hot rod suspensions out there the upper shock mount is bolted tot he top of the frame crossmember and sometimes acts as the head light mounts. Don't see many of them getting ripped out. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 Greg I think Jim listened And I know Pete and I have talked about it before Quote
blueskies Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 Greg I think Jim listened And I know Pete and I have talked about it before Come to think of it, if I remember the conversation correctly, you were going to send me a pair weren't you? Pete Quote
Young Ed Posted February 5, 2009 Report Posted February 5, 2009 Actually ya I think I was supposed to grab a pair out of the junkyard. I'm pretty sure that can still be arranged come warmer weather Quote
moparjim83 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Posted February 6, 2009 Another thing you might consider to upgrade your front end is using an MOPAR E body front sway bar. It fits perfectly on my 50 bus. coupe. Just fab up some brkts. and get ready for some lean free corners with no change in ride. Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 6, 2009 Report Posted February 6, 2009 Do you have pictures? If so please feel free to start a thread on this. Sway bar sounds good. Thanks, Frankie. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 6, 2009 Report Posted February 6, 2009 Would there be any improvement over the sway bar installed from the factory? Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.