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Posted

Sort-of thinking of getting that rattle can foam insulation and spraying that inside my cab, only the cab, not the floor or fire wall. That stuff swells as it sets up so a VERY light coat would be plenty. I wonder if it sticks to metal. Comments?

Posted

If you are talking about something like "Great Stuff", that $#!t sticks to everything. If you get it on your skin you'll have to wear it off.

It might do a fair job of inlulating and damping noise, but may not be practicle for that application.

Merle

Posted

I agree. That "stuff" is dangerous outside of the can !!

You do not have anything to control where that stuff goes.

An unenclosed wall of a home has studs above, below, and

either side that stick out to try to control that stuff.

And, like Merle says, it sticks to anything and it won't come

off. I don't think that you could lay down a thin, even coat

of it, either. If you want to try it, I would "practice" on some-

thing outside your truck cab -- some piece of scrap metal

you have laying about.

Just my two cents --

Posted

I wasn't too serious about the idea but wanted to test the field. If it is so flamable, I'm surprised it is so available for home repair. I know that similiar stuff in cold storages were OFF LIMITS until a fire retardant coating was applied and even then if fire got into the stuff the building was GONE. Saw one go, went so fast workers fled for their very lives.

Posted

Someone (maybe Merle of Greybeard??) posted something awhile back about insulating sheets that they found at Lowes or Home Depot. If I recall it wasn't self adhesive, but was a lot cheaper than the dynamat-you just needed to use contact cement. Another alternative is the 1/4/; foam poster board glued to the inner sheet metal. I wouldn't use the spray stuff-it can make a mess and isn't fire retardant. Mike

Posted

There is a thin foam that has self adhesive that is used to wrap heating ducts. It has to be alot cheaper than the dynamat, would work about the same. It comes in 20 foot long rolls and is about 12" wide. If I look on some the packages that I have, I'll post back a manufacturer.

KJ

Posted

How about Rhino Lining???

PurpleBronco2.jpg

PurpleBronco5.jpg

With proper prep, moisture can't get behind it, it will not come off (even if you want it off!)

It's certified for potable water and restaurant floors, so is safe for the inside of a car...no offgassing or odors. (not all boxliners are certified for water/food contact)

Great insulation for sound.

Great for the inside of the roof...no adhesive to fail under the headliner.

Good for inside the doors...no moisture can get behind it to rust.

Will outlast you and the car ;)

Like anything, if you do the prep it's that much cheaper.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOWlLEtUpvY

Drawback is it has to be applied by Rhino unless you have the specialized sprayer $$$$$$

Colormatching is available. (no, I have no interest in the company but a buddy has a dealership here in Calgary...the stuff is amazing)

Posted

I am very pleased with the recipe I put together after reading some very long posts on the hot od forum under the heading "alternatives to lizard skin insulation." I started with ZeroRust, a paint product I first learned about from our own GTK webmaster, right here on this forum. It adheres to rusty metal like nothing else I've used, and thins with lacauer thinner. It is much more user friendly than POR 15 and costs about fifty bucks a gallon. I still have more than a quart left, and my truck is nearly finished. I used it inside my door panels, on my floor and cab inside, frame rails, etc. It's good stuff.

My next layer inside the cab is stuff from Lowes - about twenty bucks a roll - butyl rubber like stuff called peel n' sea tht they sell in the roofing department. It is made for roof flashing and guttersl. Comes in different size rolls. You cut with a scissors to fit the spot, then peel the paper off and stick in place, I used 3M's best super adhesive behind this as well, so it will never come loose. This material is an excellent sound deadener because it has a lot of weight to it. I have it inside my door panels, on the flooer and cab rear lower areas up to the rear window areas.

Next I glued foam carpet padding from our local floor covrering store over top of the sound deadener. Used the 3M super adhesive - twelve bucks a can at Lowes - and then put double sided aluminum foil bubble wrap a/c duct insulation over top of the foam padding. Got it from Lowes as well. Don't put this directly against metal or you loose a lot of the R value of the insulation.

You have to see and feel the difference to believe how quiet this makes door panels sound when you slam them. The cab is very quiet inside. Pay extra close attention to putting the peel n' seal stuff over the firewall area clear up to the top of the cowl next to the wipers. This really helps to seal any extra holes and deaden sound. The combnation of the three layers is just great, and my total cost for the entire cab was less than one hundred dollars. Haven't yet treated the cab roof. Gotta' figurfe out what to make my headliner out of beforde I tackle that. Wish I could give myself the sort of Christmas present Merle Coggins gave himself . . . . . . mebby next year .. . :)

Paint me green . . . . . . with envy, Merle!

Posted

Sounds like a great alternative to what I bought. I still think your Lowes white panel idea would work, you would just need a way to treat the edges. It should be flexible enough to make the curves. I also liked how Allan Parkhurst covered his ABS panels with vinyl. That looks great too. I'm sure your resourcefullness will come up with something. I was just tired of trying to be resourcefull and caved in.

According to Quite Ride's system you don't need to cover everything with the Dynamat type material. They just use various size strips and squares stuck down in stretegic places to damp the panal vibrations. Then the sound/heat barrier insulation gets glued over the top of that.

I'm still going to have to come up with some type of floor mat. Right now I have some cheap thin carpet down, but I'd like something a little nicer.

Merle

Posted

I saw a section of ASK THIS Old (expensive) House regarding sealing cracks and panels, they had a 2 part deal ( 2 cans that look like freon containers) and a mixing gun at the end of some hoses. Mixes as it sprays, is about a three to one expansion foam that is fire rated ( 2hrs maybe) They said ti was available at home improvement centers, you buy the stuff, rent the aplication device.

http://www.industrialinsulation.com/e84_spray_foam.htm

Posted

Merle,

For floor matting, I have found a place near me that sells rubber belting of all sorts and types and sizes. They literally have acres of the stuff.

They have material three feet wide and as long as you want that has the identical pyramid desigh as the original mats. Of course it would not have the original smooth border but this stuff is several ply and is at least 1/4 inch thick. It will NEVER wear out when used as a floor mat. I paid $25 for a five foot length, and will be glad to buy more for anyone on this forum. Took me about an hour to fit this into my floor and I have the shift and e-brake levers on my floor. Looks really nice installed, and because it is so heavy it lays very flat. Of course I have layers of the good stuff underneath, so it will really last a long time.

Only problem is that this stuff is almost too heavy to ship. This means you'all will just have to come visit this year. You show me yours and I'll show you mine, 'n all like that there.:)

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