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Posted

i just got my 230 in time it runs perfectly. but when i turn the car off i hear a bubbling noise in the radiator then coolant starts pouring out of the overflow tube. whats causing this? is this normal? i probably lost 5 ounzes of coolant.

Posted

No car info in the profile but if I'm remembering correctly don't you have a new enough car to have a pressurized radiator?

Posted

It should be. Plymouths went to 4lbs system in 51. Not sure when the next increase came.

Posted

The location of the origin of the over flow tube will tell you whether your system is set up for pressure or not. If the tube originates under the gasket of the radiator cap it is a non pressurized system. If the tube originates above where the cap seals it is a pressure system, as the gasket seals the system to the listed pressure once that pressure is exceeded, the spring allows the excess pressure to escape past the gasket and out of the overflow.

Regardless, there is a tendancy to overfill, and as heat causes expansion of the liquid, some will likely be expelled with either system until the expansion room is created and maintained.

Posted

Fattie:

I would reccommend that you change coolant types. The old ethylene glycol type coolants that contain water are not effective in protecting your engine from rust(even with additives). I have been using Evans coolant in my antiques for at least 12 years with great results. Evans coolant protects against nucleate boiling or "hot spots" in your engine - like the ones around the exhuast valve seats & because of that you can safely operate your engine up to 240 degrees with out damage. If you should have one of those famous head gasket leaks conventional coolants will most likely cause an engine failure Evans coolant has the lubricating properties of 10 w oil and will not damage bearings. Lastly you will find that contrary to some advice you have received conventional antifreeze will never reach and maintain a level Evans coolants will and are guaranteed for 100,000 miles.

No I do not work for the Evans coolant company!

Hope this helps.

Posted

Son of a gun, another Evans convert! My only warning about Evans is that it will find places to leak out of that didn't leak with conventional antifreeze, so make sure that all of the bolts into the block are well sealed!

Marty

Posted
What is Evans coolant? Why is it special? What chemicals are in it? Cost etc?

It's a Non-aqueous Propylene Glycol mix that has boiling point of something like 350 degrees in an unpressurized cooling system. I switched to it after getting tired of boiling water out of the radiator while idling around town in hot weather. It's also non-poisonous to animals.

While the switch wasn't exactly painless or quick, I'm still happy with it. It does cost $32.50 a gallon, however.

http:// www.evanscooling.com

Marty

Posted

Is this the same as the "wetter water" products race cars use? Are there different rust inhibtors or oxygen scavengers than is found in glycol based coolants? Is there ample freze protection in this product? I have not visited the linked web site but some feedback from "users" of this product would be appriciated before I dump seventy bucks worth of the product into my radiator.

Posted
Is this the same as the "wetter water" products race cars use? Are there different rust inhibtors or oxygen scavengers than is found in glycol based coolants? Is there ample freze protection in this product? I have not visited the linked web site but some feedback from "users" of this product would be appriciated before I dump seventy bucks worth of the product into my radiator.

They're totally different products, although the claimed benefits are similar. The water wetter products are intended for standard antifreeze/water mix products; Evans NPG+ can NOT have any water present, as water is a contaminant for it. You actually have to go through a process to get the water out of the engine before you can use it (unless you start with a freshly built engine, like I did!). And you can't ever let anyone top off your radiator for you! They claim that it is a good corrosion preventer, but interestingly I couldn't find anything about freeze protection.

As you know, I have been running Evans NPG+ for years, and like the fact that I don't worry about boiling coolant out in hot conditions. But if your cooling system is in good shape and you don't have any problems with it in really hot weather. I wouldn't bother. You have to be prepared to do a lot of work sealing up all of the head, water pump, and any and every other bolt that go into a water passage, like the ones on the drivers side of the head. It took me 4 tries before I managed to stop the leaking at the thermostat housing, which had never leaked with a normal antifreeze mix.

YMMV.

Marty

Posted

Why not just use motor oil in the cooling system as some on the forum suggested a few weeks back? Or was that an inside joke that I didnt pick up on? It wouldnt boil, it wouldnt freeze, and it costs less than $35 per gallon. I bet you wouldnt have to worry about lubricating your water pump either.

Posted
They're totally different products, although the claimed benefits are similar. The water wetter products are intended for standard antifreeze/water mix products; Evans NPG+ can NOT have any water present, as water is a contaminant for it. You actually have to go through a process to get the water out of the engine before you can use it (unless you start with a freshly built engine, like I did!). And you can't ever let anyone top off your radiator for you! They claim that it is a good corrosion preventer, but interestingly I couldn't find anything about freeze protection.

As you know, I have been running Evans NPG+ for years, and like the fact that I don't worry about boiling coolant out in hot conditions. But if your cooling system is in good shape and you don't have any problems with it in really hot weather. I wouldn't bother. You have to be prepared to do a lot of work sealing up all of the head, water pump, and any and every other bolt that go into a water passage, like the ones on the drivers side of the head. It took me 4 tries before I managed to stop the leaking at the thermostat housing, which had never leaked with a normal antifreeze mix.

YMMV.

Marty

Marty;

The cost, leaks, and lack of freeze protection are enough to scare me off.

Why not just use motor oil in the cooling system as some on the forum suggested a few weeks back? Or was that an inside joke that I didnt pick up on? It wouldnt boil, it wouldnt freeze, and it costs less than $35 per gallon. I bet you wouldnt have to worry about lubricating your water pump either.

George;

It was me who suggested the use of oil. There was a guy on this forum a few years back who knew a guy who knew a guy that did use oil and claimed it worked well. Guess we need a volunteer to give it a shot.

Posted

I' ve been using Evan's coolant in an original '36 plymouth sedan and business coupe now for a long time. It doesn't require any different treatment than std. coolants when it comes to leaks. Regarding the freezing protection---I have driven my sedan well below zero ( that little Hadees heater really works , even if it does look like a toaster! ) the company will tell you that it will protect conservatively past 20 below and that it actually does not freeze anyway. I Believe that it is well worht the extra cost especially since it does not wear out. Haven't had to replace a water pump since I started using the stuff.

By the way, I drove that '36 town sedan on a piano tuning route and I logged thousands of miles in that car in all kinds of weather. I just love to hear rodders telling people those old cars aren't reliable.

Posted
By the way, I drove that '36 town sedan on a piano tuning route and I logged thousands of miles in that car in all kinds of weather. I just love to hear rodders telling people those old cars aren't reliable.

Yes, it is often the reason people give for rodding a car...it is not reliable. Let any car sit a long time and it is not reliable. I drive my cars lots when weather allows and only once had a problem. I had a fuel pump take a dive shortly after my '38 Chrysler was on the road. My own fault as I should have had a gas filter before the pump as it sucked up some crud from the tank. Since then great. Drive them lots and you won't have much trouble. There are forum members that have driven their cars on some pretty long road trip without problems.

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