what is good forum for 36?

[n1gzd_plymouth]

This is an awesome forum for asking questions about my engine and perhaps some other stuff but perhaps it is not the place for me to ask questions that are specific to my 36. Does anyone know of a forum that is as good as this one where I can ask chassis specific questions?

I just got flamed on the Plymouth forum of the antique automobile club of America forum (for asking if there is enough clearance to get my water distribution tube out without removing the grill - how am I supposed to know how long it is if I have never removed it - geeze). Sorry for venting but this is a much better group and I would rather be here.

Rebecca

36 Plymouth with 52 Dodge truck 230 CI engine.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I read that and trust me you did not get flamed..what you got was an answer for the question you asked..and by reading all your posts over there..you really do a lot of ask and answer..its good to learn the model car you have..but when asking if there is enough room to remove a distribution tube after removing the radiator and the answer given was to take a tape measure and measure the length of your engine and them measure the area in front of the block to the first obstruction of the grill, and then I think the length was given you of 23 inches for the block..its really does not get any more simpler than that as the person stated that the 36 Plymouth engine bay was not common knowledge to him but that the engine distribution tubes were the same..I really am not sure if there is a special forum for the 36 Plymouth in general..

[james curl]

You want to get "FLAMED" try the H.A.M.B. site without a proper introduction or mention that you want to build a rat rod like the cars that the H.A.M.B.ers drive. Then you will really know what flamed is all about.

[Don Coatney]

Rebecca;

It really does not get much better than this forum. The knowledge

base here has the resources to answer most any question you ask.

Your distribution tube for a short block measures a tad under 23 1/2" .

[oldmopar]

You could try the Plymouth Owners Club

http://plymouthbulletin.com/smf/index.php

[n1gzd_plymouth]

You are right that I got the answer to my question but the guy pretty much told me that I am an idiot. Obviously I knew that the maximum amount of space needed is the length of the block but if I have never removed the tube before how am I supposed to know that it runs the full length of the block. This is my first flathead 6 and I am still learning about it. He could have just answered my question without being mean. I have never encountered this type of thing before and I use a lot of these boards.

By the way, I am a regular user of the H.A.M.B. and I have never been annoyed by anyone there.

Rebecca

[TodFitch]

I can't remember the last time I looked at the Plymouth section of the AACA site (I do look at the general technical section regularly). And I do look at the Plymouth Owners Club's forum on a regular basis. I lurk (and post more) here than at other old car discussion forums, so for me this is the best place for my 1933.

Unfortunately there are lots of questions I cannot answer. Like questions on the water distribution tube as they only started having them in 1935 so my car does not have one.

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Rebecca;

It really does not get much better than this forum. The knowledge

base here has the resources to answer most any question you ask.

Your distribution tube for a short block measures a tad under 23 1/2" .

Thanks so much for your very helpful answer. I really appreciate it. It is especially nice to see what it looks like. One person told me that if I am not overheating I should not try and pull it out. However, I was thinking that if I am removing the water pump and the radiator is out I should consider replacing it. It is most likely original.

Thanks again.

Rebecca

[Andydodge]

Rebecca I finally got the water tube outa my 230 block after a few mths of trying, this engine was on a stand, had been disassembled a few yrs but it took me & a mate a long time and was a pain in the butt........however once it was about 6" out it came straight out no problems and there was enough space to get it to come out at a slight angle so the full 23" space inb front of the block may not be needed.....if I was you and I was replacing/removing the water pump, I'd see if it moved easily while I had the pump off, but to be honest unless its overheating I'd let sleeping dogs lie.......lol.......if it comes out them check its condition, try and get a hose in the water jacket to hose things out.......you should probably also take out the welsh/freeze plugs on the drivers side of the block if you are gunna hose the water jacket otherwise you'll just be moving internal water jacket crud around but still leaving it in there, with the plugs out the crud has somewhere to flow out off........there is a couple of info posts about the water tube on the Tech pages, my experiences seem to have been uncommon as some have said they literally pulled it out with their fingers....lol ...............this is far and away the best info site I've found for the Mopar 6 owner, these guys generally are a great bunch and will try and help if they can.......btw welcome from Oz......andyd

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Thanks. I will play it by ear. I did drive the car once for about 25 minutes and the temp indicated 160 deg (ran very rough I think from running excessively rich - puddle of fuel in the intake manifold).

Rebecca

[Don Coatney]

I was thinking that if I am removing the water pump and the radiator is out I should consider replacing it. It is most likely original.

Thanks again.

Rebecca

With the radiator and water pump removed the smart thing to do is replace

the water distribution tube. Good idea to pop out the Welsh plugs on the

distributor side of the block and clean the water jacket as best as you can.

Pictured is the front end of the water distribution tubes. I have one for a

short block and a long block pictured. Also is a shot of the full length of

both after I had them power coated.

[BobT-47P15]

Those water distribution tubes are kinda weird.......look like they have been

damaged, have funny indents and whatever. But nothing wrong with them.

[Jim Saraceno]

My two favorite forums are this one and the Plymouth Owners Club forum. Like you, I have an older ('35) Plymouth with a newer ('57) engine. If I can't get an answer on one, I can usually get it on the other.

Come to think of it, I don't ever remember not getting an answer on either one.

I also have a yahoo group for '30's Plymouths but it doesn't see much traffic.

I've got to tell you, though, I just went over to the AACA forum and read your question and answer and I'm not sure I understand why you took exception to that answer. It didn't look sarcastic or facetious to me, but then again, it wouldn't be the first time I was clueless as to what someone meant.

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Don said:

>short block and a long block pictured. Also is a shot of the full length of

>both after I had them power coated.

Don, did you re-install those yet (after powder coating)? I am curious to know if you had trouble getting them to fit after getting them powder coated. Interesting idea.

Rebecca

[Don Coatney]

Don said:

>short block and a long block pictured. Also is a shot of the full length of

>both after I had them power coated.

Don, did you re-install those yet (after powder coating)? I am curious to know if you had trouble getting them to fit after getting them powder coated. Interesting idea.

Rebecca

Actually I sold both of them. They have been installed on other engines and I have not heard any negative results.

[Mr. Belvedere]

Chances are your water distribution tube will come out in pieces any way so the length problem will most likely be a non-issue anyway. Many of the guys here made their own tools for removing it. Do a general search of the forum on "water distribution tubes" as there has been lots of discussion on this in the past and many pics of various homemade tools. As mentioned above remove the lower two freeze plugs on either side of the distributor and flush the block.

I got enough sediment and other crud to fill a gallon jug.

[John Reddie]

Rebecca,

I have never changed one of these tubes before but as I recall on my '36 coupe, the space in front of the block even with the radiator removed would be minimal. It would most likely be easier although more time consuming to remove the grille. One of the members on here (can't recall who, sorry) made a long slide hammer with a hooked end. It enabled him to enter into the block opening and hook onto the old tube and then withdraw it by slamming the hammer end. It was used on a P15 and may not have required the grill removal in that instance.

You could contact the Plymouth Owners Club '36 techical advisor for a more detailed procedure as to whether the grill removal is necessary. He is Wayne Brandon; email is plymdr@aol.com Good luck to you.

John R

[n1gzd_plymouth]

slide hammer gadget. cool idea. Thanks.

Rebecca

[Andydodge]

Rebecca, I tried over a period of about 4mths all of the following........a slide hammer with a 1/4" thick hook...kept straighening the hook, 2 full cans of WD40, 2 full cans of Locktite "Freeze Your Nuts" crap, various lengths of steel rod inserted in the intake/exhaust manifold bolt holes in the side of the block to gently/vigorously tap/bash the crap outa the tube, insertion of various thin long pieces of steel strap down both sides of the water tube......lots of cursing, swearing and discusion of its parentage.....all this while the block was on an engine stand.......with no success.......then took the block off the stand(this is a completely bare block btw), stood the block on the bellhousing face with the water pump face upwards, then inserted two 18" long screw drivers into the water tube opening and was finally able to lever a small amount of movement in the tube.........after this we had to lever the mongrel thing every 1/4 inch till it was about 6" outside the block front when it finally came loose.........after which I then drove over the scumbag mongrel thing about 50 times.........well actually no I didn't but felt like doing so........it is in surprisingly good condition, very rusty but still in one piece......so they can give you months of "fun & enjoyment".......lol........andyd

[n1gzd_plymouth]

argh. Perhaps I will give it a tug and if it does not come out easily I will just forget it until I find out if the engine overheats. Rebecca

[BobT-47P15]

Some have come out without that much of a battle.

Won't know until you try.

[Andydodge]

Yep, while the water pumps off give it a try, you might be lucky......lol......at the very least if you can take a couple of welsch plugs out at the same time and stick a hose in the front etc and try and was as much crap as you can out.....ain't cars fun..........lol.......

[Reg Evans]

A couple of times I have had to run some coat hanger wire and drill bits in the small water port holes right above the distribution tube and the corresponding ports in the head because the were clogged shut with rusty scale. If you end up taking the head off check out all the water ports between the head and block for clogs.

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Well, I gave it a little tug and to my surprise, it moved so I pulled on it and it just came right out. I decided that it is in very good shape (perfect metal that is just a little stained with the color of rusty water but you can rub that off and see that the metal is good. I am relived. Here are some pictures.

Rebecca

[Powerhouse]

Is Your Front Motor Mount Attached?