Forgive me board, I have sinned

[Cpt.Fred]

wow, that IS a tight fit!

try that ceramic exaust paint and then wrap the beast up with

heat insulation cord, because you're pretty close to your brake lines and starter motor... in fact, you're pretty close to everything in there

[Fireball]

What ceramic paint is doable in home Fred? I always thought they need a big oven for frying, but please share whats available in Europe. Plan is to wrap the critical areas, but not all the way.

Fred I got it, this product does not need owen and user feedback locally sounds promising http://www.techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm

Edited May 29, 2009 by Fireball
found it

[Fireball]

Today I built the exhaust for both sides, made it out of 2" pipe and one glasspack type seethrough muffler per each side. Kinda interesting to hear the sound if I ever see the day this puppy runs. I was lazy and didn't bother to make a crossover pipe. (H) just straight runs and over the rear axle all the way back, mufflers just before the axle. I would have wanted them to be after the rear, but no room

[knuckleharley]

There's lurking the collector mocked up in place, where it's possible to go ahead with exhaust itself. All the time one has to think that it'll be removable, and not blocking any critical accesses, pedals, linkage lines etc.

At this point it was clear that I'm forced to go with 2-1 design with cylinders 1 and 3, there really was not room for three tubes. Well since this is not a performance oriented project, it's fine.

Rear tube needed to be raised over the steering

And voila here you have a perfectly sitting custom header for modern Mopar magnum engines in a D-24 application.

I don't know how much they pay guys that fabricate headers,but it's not enough.

[Cpt.Fred]

i used a different paint when i did my opel, but that one looks to be just about the same. they told me to heat it well after applying, so i just put it into the oven on full throttle for a couple of hours when i was home alone:D

don't forget to open windows afterwards...

it works well with steel parts, on cast iron it tends to get white after a few hundred km, but thats no problem for you there! it's available as spry on paint, as well. i got it from a swap meet back then, was quite expensive but did the job better than any exaust paint i knew so far.

i'm looking forward to more photos of your exaust!

i'm planning to build a two float myself, next year. i want to have them coming out before the rear wheels to save me some nerves with the pipes going over the axle... maybe i can hide them under the running boards with horizontal fishtales.

[Fireball]

I don't know how much they pay guys that fabricate headers,but it's not enough.

Well said knuckle, Good set of Doug Thorley headers are something like $700,- for mopar applications. They are top of the line = expencive and still the pay per hour is nothing. Ofcourse those are mass produced but still.

I have made couple sets for my different race cars earlier, and those are a bit more time consuming. Limited space is not the problem always, but you have to end up in specific primary length with each tube, they have to protrude into collector in certain order to create swirl, etc. Then one really starts to smoke the cigars and THINK:D

[Fireball]

Today it was time to be creative. Again? I designed and fabricated the clutch linkage. I was able to partially use stuff from the original setup. Like the first link that transfers the pedal movement to rearward motion. I welded an bearing to it's end and made through that bearing a new fastener to tranny.

Then I pressed off the original stud from that link, and replaced that with some leftover racing uniball. That was neat solution since I needed some angle to the bar. The rear mount I made to fit the tranny tail, and then the final link with multiplier adjustment possibility to reach the exactly correct amount of movement and force after I install the all new clutch there.

That took couple of hours so I really hope it works, at this point it felt great and seemed OK but let's see when the pressure plate etc. are in place. Hopefully tomorrow I have time to pull of the engine and tranny once again, and change the freeze plugs + install the flywheel and new clutch kit that arrived today. Put the drivetrain back, put the exhaust back, wires hoses lines and go cruising:D:p:D

[Fireball]

oo-la-laa what a beautiful day. It was hailstorm time today but I got done what was planned. Eight full hours and the drivetrain was back with clean water jackets in engine, new freezplugs, new flywheel and all new clutch and bearings. I coated the headers and added some more strength to clutch linkage. Now the pedal feels really good, and the travel is exactly 1" as it should for that clutch.

Beer and sauna well deserved!

PS. I feel like talking to myself???

[HotrodLono]

I'm watching your thread close. I'm hoping to start the motor mount wedgie game next week

[Fireball]

And I'm watching you Lono I was able to utilize the stock Mopar magnum engine mount on right side, but left had to be total custom.

Headers are so much more nicer one-colored?

[Fireball]

Dang this electronics stuff is driving me nuts, I have never understood anything about volts and amps, and now I need to figure this mess out. I have installed the engine harness and PCM, radiator and hoses, fuel pump with lines and regulator. Engine cranks but does not run yet, I'm still missing something, probaply the ASD relay input. (Automatic shut down) or then the PCM is oil pressure signal sensitive. That's also not connected because I have Autometer aftermarket sender there and i have no idea if it shares the same technology as the original one.

Well it means more digging into wiring schematics, and hopefully some day it also runs. If not with this setup then some standalone, but I'm not giving up yet. It would be so much more easier if I could find somewhere how the PCM works, what goes in and what comes out you know. Frustrates a bit when there's like million possibilities but you have no way figuring out, lack of knowledge is not fun at all

[Plymouthy Adams]

as a quick test (I keep one handy) you can remove the lid of a relay and plug it into the fuel pump circuit and energize by hand to test the fuel pump...

the ASD relay will shut down from a number of sources (failed inputs) these can be ruled out one at a time..question is..do you have spark when cranking..if so then does the fuel pump run..it will fire and charge the system once the key is turned on but will only run afterwards if you have iginition..you can override the ASD for testing also...have done this once or twice to prove the ignition and pump...only have seen one bad computer...(ECM)

you sinner can always repent and redeem yourself by going 1988 carbed model..but you are probalby like myself and rather taking a beating than do that..carbs are so DATED..!!!!!!

[Young Ed]

A rotten wire to the ASD is what kept my dakota from starting last fall. Dreadfull incident

[Fireball]

Thanks for the support troops, somehow I knew that reliable Sergeant Tim will be the first in line

I've now spend couple more hours with schema on right and gintonic on left hand, and it has to be the ASD. The schema shows it is actually connected with coil, and when it's not routed properly coil keeps shorted circuit. I learned from the mighty internet. I have no idea why/what but will install the relay in line tomorrow, it's midnight here already and wife is staring with the "I'm soooooo bored to that carstuff" look

Guys keep your thumbs up that your fellow foreigner has some luck tomorrow, with the engine I mean, please.

[Fireball]

Uuuuuu-gah, IT RUNS! :p:D

I built the ASD in line and got it barely thumpin like a freight train throttle wide open. At least there was now spark. I then checked once again all the connections, plug wires and poured the coolant in. That did the trick finally, am I happy or what. I can still hear a major vacuum leak from TB area, no real throttle responce yet, but all that is concidered minor after all this hassle. What a relief!

[mackster]

Uuuuuu-gah, IT RUNS! :p:D

I built the ASD in line and got it barely thumpin like a freight train throttle wide open. At least there was now spark. I then checked once again all the connections, plug wires and poured the coolant in. That did the trick finally, am I happy or what. I can still hear a major vacuum leak from TB area, no real throttle responce yet, but all that is concidered minor after all this hassle. What a relief!

ITS ALIVE AGAIN!!!!!! congrats, now lets hear a bit more of the gin and tonic. . .ummmm gin!

[Fireball]

You are right mackster, who cares about old steel when quality GIN is available. I'd prefer Bombay Sapphire but have to settle with Beefeater today.

[Fireball]

Long time no updates, even though I haven't been lazy at all. It's just that part of the project when it seems nothings going on despite the fact I'm on it almost every day. I've been prepping the body for paint, and three times already I thought it's ready, but after a good night sleep I was no longer satisfied and started all over. Now once again I'm almost there, and the painter promised to visit my garage and give his approval or denial to bring it into his booth for spraying. I did a few more custom tricks for the body, shaved the locks and gas fill ended up in trunk. Now it's pretty smooth looking with new taillights and all.

This morning I carried stuff into upholstery shop, and they'll start sewing. I have decided the coloring scheme in'n'out and will post pics as soon something noticeable happens. Just in case somebody wants to know what's going on in the north pole.

BTW Where have you guys bought headliners? All I can find is this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VINYL-HEADLINER-CHRYSLER-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-1954-OLDER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3ef42f1676QQitemZ270384698998QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Edited August 11, 2009 by Fireball

[Frank Elder]

JC whitney has em, or any competent upholstery shop should be able to make one, and the bows are numbered so you should pay attention to the order in which they are removed.

[Fireball]

Thanks for the tip Frankie