Search the Community

I have a 1948 Dodge Custom with Fluid Drive. The fuel pump stopped working recently. I ordered a new one from Andy Bermbaum (https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/p_fuel/fuel-pump-2/) based on the my car year, make, and model. Stupidly I ordered it before I took the old one out. The one I ordered has a straight pump arm and the one I pulled out has a an angled pump arm. So I am wondering if the one I ordered will work and if not which should I be ordering? I don't want to put this one just to pull it out again or worse break something. The engine in in the car has, so far as I can tell, the following numbers stamped on it: D34-25148I (on the front driver's side of the engine block) and 1311804-4 (on the top of the engine block towards the back ). I believe the engine is from a 1950 Dodge Coronet, Meadowbrook, or Wayfarer. This one (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m2090/make/dodge) looks very much like the old one I pulled out. I found it by searching by Engine Types and selecting Mopar Inline 6 size 230. If I search by Car (1948 Dodge Custom or 1950 Dodge Coronet, Meadowbrook, or Wayfarer) it says it won't match and points me to another pump that looks exactly like what I ordered initially - with the straight arm. The only Dodge vehicle it says it fits is a Dodge B1 truck. Any help is much appreciated.

I have a question about the mechanical fuel pump. Can the mechanical pump pump air into the line to the carb? My P-15 died on me last week going to get take out. Wouldn't start again. Primed with the electric fuel pump and hit the accelerator a couple times and it would try to start and then stumble and die. Pulled the air filter and could see the accelerator pump, pump fuel into the intakes. I sat there for about 30-40 minutes waiting for a friend and when he showed up we dinked with it some more but it would stumble and die after the start. Towed back home and trouble shot the next day. It started with no problem and ran fine. Then I noticed that the fuel filter (K&N glass) just before the carb had air going through it. Not a lot, just like the treasure chest in an aquarium, about every 40-50 seconds when running at idle or every 15-25 seconds at about 2000 rpms. Troubleshooting suggested that 1. Vapor lock from air into the line but I have an electric fuel prime pump and it still wouldn't run on the day of the shutdown. 2. crack or split fuel line sucking air into the line causing a low fuel supply at speed. Again the electric fuel pump should over come this because it is supplying fuel from back at the tank and pressurizing the fuel line. The amount of bubbles suggest a pin hole. 3. Mechanical fuel pump is going bad and pumping air into the system, but can a fuel pump do that? and at a very low amount of air, just about five to ten bubbles about 1/8" in size every 30-40 seconds. 4. I have two problems thinking I had one. Crud in the carb that blocked both the idle and run circuits and a pin hole leak some where. The crud either pushed through during the last attempt to start or fell back and broke up on the tow home. The next day I pulled the top of the carb and the inside looked good and clean. Had my grandson hit the prime pump and the carb filled normally and the float shut of the flow just as it was supposed to. I did not see anything floating around in there so I put the top back on and we started the car and presto, it started fine and ran great. Parked it as it was Easter and we had dinner to go to. The next day I put a fuel pressure gage on at the carb and started and ran the car. Gage said the Mech pump was putting out 6 psi. The prime pump when the engine was not running was at 3 psi. At this point I thought crap in the fuel line or carb had stopped the car. Started the car and then noticed the air bubbles coming through the inline filter (I hooked the pressure gage up after the filter but before the carb) I then ran the car for about 30-40 minutes and no problem except for the bubbles in the fuel filter. I'm fixing to go out and put the car up on stands and inspect the fuel line and see if there is a pinhole some where in it. While I'm doing that I just want to see what you guys think about this problem or problems. Can the mech fuel pump be going bad and introduce small amounts of air into the system to cause it to shut down or is it a crud issue and a pinhole leak at the same time? Any thoughts comments or tips are greatly appreciated. Joe Lee

Hi recently picked up a 1947 Dodge Custom Sedan. I am new to this world so bare with me. It has an flathead 6 motor which I believe would be the d24? Car was running fine, but ran into an issue with the fuel pump. Wasn’t getting fuel to the pump, replaced with fp from Andy Bernbaum. Now I am getting fuel through the system, and the car is running. Drove around the neighborhood and it is now sputtering and stalling. (This wasn’t happening previously.) Looking for some pointers on this issue (possibly an air leak from installing the new fp?) Also looking for any resources for more knowledge on these vehicles.

I have a 1940 Plymouth PT105. Same period motor (from a 52', P23 code 218ci ) and has the floor starter, 6V Positive Ground, BB1 Carb, etc... Lately, the truck is not running due to a host of fuel related issues and my slowness on working on it between work, family, and the Texas heat. I have replaced the fuel tank (which I had sealed about 7 years ago, but has come undone) due to corrosion with a "Tanks Inc 39DP-T" from Summit Racing. The new tank fits great, and I am now in the process of running all new fuel lines from the tank to the mechanical pump (which I replaced, but I don't have faith in it, could not prime, or was pushing too much pressure when primed, etc..). I am looking at switching to an electric fuel pump as part of adding in the new fuel lines. Using 5/16" Copper Nickel hard lines with double flair fittings for the fuel line. I'll also do another carb rebuild to make sure it is clean and put this filter pre-pump. Had a paper/plastic one between the mechanical pump and carb prior. I think the electric pump gives me better assurance that the fuel system is working up to the carb. This would completely remove the mechanical pump and I would put a block off plate on the motor. Parts: Carter P4259 Fuel Pump 20 Amp slow burn fuse & holder 6V Relay OS75 Oil Switch K&N 81-0300 Fuel Filter 5/16" Hardline and various fittings Inertia Switch Thoughts? Does this wiring look correct?

Ok, so I was able to completely strip all of the other pieces from the fuel pump, except this one. Has anyone out there successfully removed this retainer cap for the rubber seal or does anyone know were I aquire such a peice. Thanks

Trying to right some wrongs from previous owners. On a stock B4B, is there supposed to be a rubber fuel hose section between the hard line coming from the tank and the fuel pump? Also, is there supposed to be a fuel filter attached to the carb input port? I'm trying to find drawings or photos to no avail. Can someone post a photo?

Howdy all Question...took ol'Bessie out for maiden voyage today. First thing is smooth until I got to about 20-30 mph then started to break up (I assume ignition, will be installing pertronix soon) The other thing is while I was stopped engine stalled like it ran out gas, I took air cleaner off moved throttle "nothing" checked fuel pump bowl it was full...then dumped some fuel down the carb and it started. I'm assuming fuel pump crapped out ? Lpols fairly new but it has been sitting for quite some time...Any suggestion, advice or info. Thanks John

I’m having trouble installing my fuel pump correctly I imagine. I get it to bolt onto the block but when I crank the motor I get no vacuum or fuel pressure. Is it possible to miss the cam lobe? I have taken it off and on several times.

I have a 1949 B series 5 window that I'm in the process of doing the body work on. I went to Move It Outside The Barn to grind off some bolts so I could remove the bed for body work. The motor is lost his prime started it up with some ether fuel pump kicked in squirting fuel everywhere. The pump has less than 2 years old I've already ordered another one. I'm thinking of switching to an electric pump. My system is still 6 volt positive ground. I would love to get this thing switched over to 12 volt and upgrade everything but it's a marathon not a Sprint. Any suggestions on my fuel pump issue would be great. If I decide to go Electric what is the proper wiring schematic? I just added a couple pictures the truck that I'm working on because I'm excited about it it was my father-in-law's pride and joy he had a stroke and couldn't keep it up. It for five years my wife and her sister were going to sell it I told him I would keep it and fix it up. My father-in-law is in a nursing home and I'm hoping I can get it paint it and take him for one final ride. Got a lot of work to do and on a budget.

My mechanical fuel pump has an integrated fuel filter, but some flatheads have a filter attached to the carburetor inlet. Since the fuel pump has a filter already, is the carb filter really necessary or is it just extra insurance? Integrated Fuel Filter Carburetor Fuel Filter

Look for help on how to wire a electric fuel pump. Is it necessary to hook it up to a relay or could I just run it to a switch and a fuse. Thanks

Finally got my Coronet running and driving but my fuel pump decided to go out. Just wondering where I could find a new fuel pump or a rebuild kit for the 241 hemi. I also heard that you could take a 318 or 340 fuel pump and add a spacer to make it work. Anyone on here ever done it.

Howdy friends, I ordered a new fuel pump for my 1952 B3C, 218 flat head. The pump i received visually matches the Dodge parts catalogue for the 218 flat head that's in the truck, but it doesn't look anything like what I pulled. The old pump looks like it came out of a Dodge or Plymouth car (Roberts shows one that looks like the one I pulled and it's listed for cars). The new pump has the same mount pattern but the bowl on the old pump is inline with the pump and the rocker arm is inverted. I checked my block serial number and it looks correct for a 1952 B3 engine (T306*II0686*). I've posted a photo of the two side by side (the pump at left is the one I pulled), I want to be sure that the new pump will work without ruining something, but I'm also thinking about just ordering the other one from Roberts. If anyone could share any info they have, it would be much appreciated, Roland

QUESTION: Will the mechanical fuel pump on a Plymouth 218 6-cyl flathead pull fuel uphill? SCENARIO: 1946 Plymouth has: 1) ACDelco glass bowl fuel filter mounted just in front of carburetor; 2) ACDelco (#GF-62) canister-type fuel filter mounted near top edge on right inner fender; and 3) new fuel pump (Airtex #73201). Pump pulls fuel from tank, up approximately 16" to/through canister fuel filter on inner fender, back down into fuel pump, and then pushes the fuel back up approximately 18" to/through the glass-bowl filter, and into the carburetor. So, is this too much for the "pulling" side of the fuel pump to handle long-term/successfully?

Things have been going too smoothly the last couple months. Yesterday I decided to take my Wayfarer through freeway traffic to get my paint matched at NAPA for painting my wheels body color. Everything going great until I am in the middle of traffic on I-94 between Mpls and St. Paul and the car just suddenly dies at 60 mph. Since I was in the middle of the freeway approaching rush hour I had the car towed to a shop that has done work for me before. The fuel pump which was just rebuilt in Massachusetts three years ago went bad. For only $550 they would put in a new pump! Needless to say the car is now being towed to my home where I can do the job for $100. I can't believe that I sent my pump to the experts in Weymouth MA and I only got three years out of it. But maybe when I get it home and pull the pump it will just be a broken spring or some such simple thing.

I pulled the fuel pump from my 1950 Wayfarer yesterday and discovered that as usual, I don't have what most everyone else does. Instead of the usual Carter fuel pump, my flathead has been purring right along the an Auto-Lite fuel pump. A search of this forum (yes I know how to do that) revealed a bunch of posts about the Carter and it's seemingly faulty pin issue. This would lead me to believe that perhaps the Auto-Lite is a better option......if I can find a rebuild kit for it. There is one on ePay right now, but it would need new seals as well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Lite-Mopar-Hammerhead-Style-4001-Military-Passenger-Car-Truck-Fuel-Pump-/200799062591?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec08e8a3f&vxp=mtr Does anyone know of a source for kits. It is Sunday morning as I post this so calling the usual vendors is out of the question. Is there a reason I cant just switch to the Carter that my local NAPA has on the shelf other than the fact that my lines are a bit shorter? (there is enough room to move them into place).

Hi Folks. The fuel pump in my '36 blew out --- a victim of unleaded alcohol-containing fuel I guess. Anyhow, the old pump came out in 10 minutes. However, I struggled for 2 hours and couldn't even get a bolt started on the new pump, then gave up for the day. I turned the engine by hand off "high-cam" and still no luck. Anybody have any suggestions about changing an old flathead fuel pump in tight quarters. Also, I obtained a heat shield, but cannot figure out how it goes no matter how I position it.