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Hello all! I have a 1952 Plymouth Cranbrook that I recently finished restoring and have been driving around. After getting it on the road, I quickly realized the draw of an overdrive transmission, which my calculations show would give an estimated ~20 mph increase in range.(Which would be basically necessary where I live) I have had trouble finding an overdrive trans for a good price, it have recently found someone selling one nearby for $700. I was just interested if anyone was more knowledgeable about overdrives and could help give me some direction on exactly what needs to be changed, added, modified, etc. I know I will have to modify the electricals, but I’m not completely sure of “what” and “why” past what I found in my manual. Also wondering if the transmission is a complete swap in, or if I will need to modify things like driveshaft length and things like that. I am talking to the seller about looking at it and possibly purchasing it Saturday, so I would really appreciate any information, tips, and advice before then!!! Thanks!!!
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1938 Plymouth PT-57 Dark Blue 201CI On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/256446381989? -
1938 Plymouth coupe arrives first week in February along with a 37 sedan just now diving into the possibilities of making a comfortable hot rod. Hope someone out there welcomes me as I’m going to need all the help I can get I have not restored or built a car in 20 years.
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I found this "Drive Report" article in the "Special Interest Autos" Dec '82 issue, now called "Hemmings Classic Cars" magazine. Looks like the authors put 'er though her paces! Their only suggestion for improvement was "Probably the only thing that would have made the Suburban more useful was the addition of rear doors" 1982 SIA Article P17_P18 Suburbans.pdf
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I have a 1939 Chrysler that is a right hand drive Australian built car that I am planning to do some restoration work on. Does anyone have any information on these cars?? In the USA it is a Plymouth and some parts I have order I have ordered the Plymouth parts instead of Chrysler parts. I want to rebuild the engine the # is T3834402. Would I need a Plymouth kit or Chrysler kit? Any information on the car would be great Thanks Mike
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I've been perusing around the forum for a couple of weeks while doing research on the 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe before I purchased it. My wants was a running and driving classic car that I could take to car shows, and I didn't want to spend a fortune on the purchase price. I ran across the Plymouth on Craigslist, went for a test drive and fell in love. Overall the car is in pretty good shape. The paint job and interior refresh is probably 10-15 years old, so there's some scratches and things in the paint and the interior has some places where the seams are coming apart. I'm currently going through and greasing things that need to be greased, added a little brake fluid, replaced the generator wires because the insulation was gone. There's some rust on the drivers side rocker panel underneath. Someone previously fixed some of the floor pans, but did a shotty job, so will look at that in a few years. The engine looks mostly original. It's still running oil bath air cleaner and 6 volt system with the generator. The engine belt has a slight tear, so I bought a replacement. The replacement looks to not be quite as wide, so I'll have to figure that one out. I bought the service manual off of Rock Auto, which helps tremendously. I want to keep the car mostly original. I love to tinker with things, so this should be fun. I'm sure I'll have tons of questions. Updates: 4-12-19 -new spark plugs -Replaced generator wires 8-26-19 -6 new wheel cylinders -all new brake shoes -New rubber brake lines -2 new steel brake lines off the master cylinder -new master cylinder -replaced windshield wipers -replaced belt (had a tractor belt on the car) -fixed driver door lock (just took apart and put back together and it worked) -changed all fluids (seems to be self leveling with the leaks, lol) -added oil filter (was empty) -replaced rubber fuel line (started leaking in the garage) -added third brake light (6 volt led) -added rear turn signals -new battery (old one wasn't holding a charge) -cleaned up the trunk -added USB mobile phone charger (yes, it worked on 6 volts) -fixed driver door stop Sometime in Early 2020 -New front emblem 5-7-21 -new tires (stayed with the Cooper 215/75R15) -new stop light lenses (ordered and they are on the way) Still needed: -new trunk lock (another hard to find, the ones I do find are so expensive) -wiring (may work on this this winter) -seat belts
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Hello everyone. Let me start by just saying I’m so glad this place exists. I can’t wait to learn from you all. On to my story. My grand father left me a 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe when I turned 18. I’ll be 30 this year. In my whole life I’ve never seen the car run. I finally decided to start trying to get it back on the road so I can enjoy like it was intended to be. I spent an entire day with just getting new tires on it. The old ones were rotted and deflated. Today I put a new battery in and tried to start it. I didn’t expect it to fire up. But I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect. When I press the ignition it sounds like the starter is trying but only briefly and nothing from the motor itself. I was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction on what to do next. Even after we get it to fire. Thank you for checking this out! I look forward to getting this girl back on the road!
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Not sure if this pandemic is good for my wallet- I just couldn't pass up this '56 Suburban, listed as a parts car on Facebook Marketplace - pretty cheap and 3 hours from the house. What a great excuse for a road trip with the wife and granddaughter! An "adventure" as she called it. We have her 3 days a week since her school closed, so no social distancing needed ? The wagon was owned by a hoarder - after he passed away, it was sold during his estate sale. Local folks remember it sitting in the same spot in the northern California woods since the 1970's. It was so covered with pine needles that only the fins were showing, and everyone assumed it was a Handyman wagon. Moss is growing around the windows and doors. Crazy thing is, parts of the wagon are rusted completely away- floors, parts of the fins, tailgate hinges, etc and other parts are in good shape-frame, exhaust, stainless and some chrome. There were apparently 150 generations of mice living the dry life, as I am still vacuuming mountains of droppings out of every crevice and crack. The odometer says 49k miles, and that might be accurate. The motor is the one-year, 277 cu in "Semi-Hemi" Hy-Fire V8 - The PO pulled the plugs , shot lube in and got the motor to turn freely. It also has the standard transmission with the optional overdrive. I think I will be able to use the doors, bumpers, trim and other parts. Probably will sell the OD. Not ever having had a V8 (Mopar or otherwise) in any of my project cars, I'm not sure where the engine ID number is located. My Standard Catalog of Chrysler says "on flat surface, near front of block between two cylinder heads". It's pretty rusty, but I can't find it. Suggestions? Also I've read that the crankshafts aren't the most durable. Any personal experience with these motors?
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I have to sell my 52 Cambridge. I love it, but I need the money. Any ideas on how much I should ask? I had it posted on Craigslist for $4k or best offer a while back and had no takers. Is that unreasonable? The ad read as follows: . 1952 Plymouth Cambridge (P-23)4 DoorOriginal Inline 6 - 217 with a Stromberg carb, Oil bath gutted for modern style air filter, Pertronix Electronic ignition, Rebuild Radiator, Rebuilt Starter, 6 volt positive ground (with an Optima 6v battery).3 Speed (Column shift)Handmade Tan & Brown Interior, door panels are ABS plastic under the carpet/vinyl. . Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Is there a podcast somewhere,, that as our area of interest. like the Master tech series, some sort of podcast that you can listen to .. like when driving. as a subjet about vintage cars, or mecanical advices..
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My freeze plug inside my bellhousing went today. Does anyone know if this can be accessed without pulling the motor? Can I drop the trans and bell housing instead and replace it from there? What does that process look like? Where/how do I find freeze plugs that will fit?
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Hey y’all, new here. I just recently recovered a 1947 Plymouth business coupe that was stolen from me in 1999. I found it on Craigslist listed for sale without a title, most amazingly, I still had the damned title. I contacted the seller & set up an appointment to see it, after confirming that it was the same car, I informed the seller that I had the title to it & upon seeing that the VIN# matched, he let me have it back (with an agreed $200 for his towing expenditures.).
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Hello All, first time poster, first time builder, looking for some help on a new '51 Suburban project. My grandfather and I are working on this one together; he's lending me his expertise and shop space and I'm giving him a chance to spend some more time in the garage, "grandma-approved". He's been hot rodding Chevys and Fords since he was 14, but when looking for a project to take on we fell in love with this era of Suburbans and it's the first MOPAR he's worked on. We're sticking pretty traditional with our plans for modifications, including a Mustang II style IFS kit. I've seen a lot of debate regarding Fatman products on here, and that was the original direction we were leaning towards as he has two completed projects with their Stage II kit (50 and 31 Chevy pickups). However, the cost of their frame stub has us a bit wary, as it would nearly double the overall price of the kit. My grandpa thinks we can do the measurements and fab work for the stub ourselves, then use a universal kit from Heidts, Fatman or similar and save about $2k. Has anyone gone this route? Any advice would be appreciated.
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FLATHEAD ENGINE questions for 1948 Plymouth special deluxe
vinny1416 posted a topic in P15-D24 Forum
I have a 48 Plymouth special deluxe and havent been able to get this motor to start. It cranks and I put gas in the carb trying to get it to start. Though when I was working on it my stud that the positive cable bolts to got really hot. Wire isnt hot but just the bolt. I get the motor to crank and sounds like it wants to start because it does pop but cant get it to run.
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I bought this 51 plymouth club coupe recently no motor not trans been fully converted to 12volt for 350 dollars with a title and I'm having a little trouble identifying what it actually is any help is appreciated
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First time posting. My new toy is an Australian built 1956 Plymouth Cranbrook Ute. She appears to have had an engine swap at some stage as she's a base model with standard shift, 3 speed column shift. This I thought would have had a 23 inch 230 six. I measured the head and it's about 25.5". So that makes it a 251 or 265. Most likely 251cid. The engine number on the left side at the front just below the head is: V 63I259P I've Googled all sorts of things with no results. Can anyone shine some light on this?
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So I've started working on my next project - a '52 Plymouth Suburban. It's in remarkable shape except for some small rust-through spots under the accelerator pedal. My plan is to use a working P20 218 I recently purchased for $300 (local Craigslist), mated to a TH200-4R automatic overdrive transmission (also Craigslist). The guy I bought the motor from had it set up that way on a '50 Plymouth wagon, using a Wilcap Adapter, which came with the engine, and said it ran great. He felt that he wanted more power, so he pulled it and replaced it with a SBC. The 200-4R is an overdrive tranny and from my measurements, I don't think I'll need to modify the firewall. I will need to add a support for the rear of the tranny, however. In order to get the most hp/torque out of the 218, I plan to run the 2bbl carb NiftyFifty recently posted about, with spilt exhaust and electronic ignition. I also plan to shave the head, and I've been told I could boost the compression ratio even more by using a thinner head gasket. In looking on ePay, and the usual vendors, thickness is rarely if ever listed. I haven't found a gasket reference chart to compare. How can I find a thinner gasket, and is it really worth the trouble?
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So here’s what’s going on. On my Chrysler I like to get better highway gears. I came across a 1960 Plymouth fury rear axle. Was hoping to drop it in but after some research I don’t think I can as my axle is 60” 5x4.5 and my leaf spring mounts would be 47 where the fury is 55.5” 5x4 and spring mounts is 45.5? so this leads me to is could I take the gears from the fury and put into my axle?
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So today I got my first project car a 1947 Plymouth p-15 sedan if that’s right I’m 16 and this is all new
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Hello Everyone, I recently pulled my grandpa's old Plymouth out of the barn and have been giving it the attention it deserves. He bought it "restored" in 1999-2001 ( he can't remember exactly what year haha). The paint and interior look phenomenal but the engine and drivetrain are original and untouched. It runs and drives but after about 30-45 mins of normal driving it stalls abruptly and just won't stay running. I let it sit for 10 mins and then it fires right up and can make it home. My best guess is that it is vapor locking but I don't know too much about these cars, hence why I joined this forum. What are some suggestions? I have read about heatshields, risers, and heatwrap. What works the best? One more question should I install a fuel filter before the mechanical fuel pump or before the carb? I We don't get the best gas around these parts so I want to make sure im not sucking water and dirt into the carb/engine. Thanks in advance and here's some picture of the car.
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Can some one tell me what size fuel line I need to run from the fuel pump to the gas tank. Also what size compression nuts I need so that I can flare the ends and connect the new line with the pump and new tank. Thanks. 1948 plymouth deluxe
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The PO on my 53 Cranbrook had some jerry rigged gas tank put on the car that didn't really fit right and had clearly been cut and welded. It also used an different style sending unit with the fuel being pulled from there. I was able to buy one of the repo tanks for it from BernBaum. I've got a new gauge unit and hose and everything incoming. But the new tank appears to have a threaded connection in the bottom corner for the fuel pickup. Is there a specific fitting that i should be using there, or is any barbed male end threaded fitting i can find at like autozone acceptable? Just trying to figure out how may things may be original and how many are replaced.
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I’ve replaced my 6 volt battery in my 1947 Plymouth two years ago and it appears I now need to replace it again. I’ve only had the Plymouth for 4 years, is this common or should I be buying a special 6 volt battery? thanks, chad
