steveplym

Whoops, I wondered if you had a different engine you were talking about. Well figure out which spark plug wire is #1 on the distributor and you could do pretty much the same kind of static timing test. Set #1 piston to TDC and get to rotor to point to the #1 plug wire and go from there.

Try to static time it first. I did it for my car and it worked out great after many failures at starting the first time. http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/techtipframeset.html

Here's the parts reference list for the P-15 and D-24 from the main site. Might have many of the same parts referenced as the engines were 218 and 230. http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/partsframeset.html

I bought mine from Roberts Bob. You can see them in this pic. I removed the old ones and compared them, they seemed to be pretty close.

Here's what mine looked like. I just unscrewed the clips, using a screwdriver to kind of push the clip around. Once I got them loose enough I removed them by hand. I purchased new clips at the local Ace hardware store. Man I miss that place, closed about a month ago. Lots of good bolts and other hardware I seem to always need.

Ok Tim, thanks for the info. One more question I have before I dive into this adventure. The dropping resistor for the heater blower motor, should I connect it in series between the ign and the heater switch, or between the heater and the blower motor?

Alright here is my question. I've got the 12V solenoid that is a four pole. I want to make sure I hook this up right. The post that is labeled 1 in Don C's picture goes to the starter and the one labeled 4 goes to the battery, correct? Then the "I" pole goes out to the coil for 12 volts on start up, and the "S" terminal goes to the starter switch. In reviewing the P-15 wiring diagram that would be the correct hookup. Am I right or wrong?

Congrats Howard. I really like your car. It is neat.

If I remember right most of Indiana never change over to standard time in November, they just stay on DST. I know in the winter when I drive over to Terre Haute or Indianapolis the time always changes over to an hour ahead of time. If I go in the summer the time stays the same. Some Indiana folks will have to chime in.

No problem. I had to learn that lesson the hard way too. I had the radiator in, but hadn't filled it up with antifreeze yet. Read Norm's thread and went back to check the bolts. Pulled the radiator back out and fixed what could have been an issue. If it wasn't for this place I would still be trying to figure out why I have a coolant leak.

Not all of mine had washers with them. There is things to note though when putting the bolts back in. Check out this thread and the notes by Normspeed. If you put the bolts in wrong you will have a coolant leak. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=32236&highlight=timing+cover#post32236

I love daylight savings time too. Can get home from work and still have 2 hours of daylight left to do what I want to do. I'd be for rolling back standard time. Just leave it alone with DST. I hate November and getting off work just as it gets dark.

Well if you keep your expectations low you will be guaranteed to be impressed. If you do the prep work you said you are going to do it should turn out really nice. Can't wait to see the finished product.

James I called a starter repair shop yesterday and they told me the same thing. If something happens I guess it happens. As it will with my luck. I'm going to go with the 6V starter for a while until I have problems.

Sounds like you got a good plan Fred. Enjoying following your progress.

I'm getting ready to do this on my '47 Jim. If you pull out the interior window molding can you move the glass enough to get the sweepers on the door, or do you have to pull out the glass?

Very nice looking Plymouth convertible. Here's the link to the auction. If I had 20k to burn it would be a nice car to have. I do agree with Tim though, the wheels gotta go. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Plymouth-Convertible-1941-Plymouth-Special-Deluxe-restored-Show-Condition_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem280317587548QQitemZ280317587548QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks

Is this the link you were talking about Donald? It's on the main site under downloads. Then click the overspring adjuster template. http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/softwareframeset.html

I think the P-15's run about the same way, I know mine is run that way. I did put a fuel filter right under the rear pass side floor. Mine was run outside the drives side frame rail, that always seemed a little unsafe to me, but is that the way it was run originally?

Anymore when I pick up the phone and hear that dreaded pause, or a foreign voice that just asked for me and butchered my name, I just hang up. Mostly phone calls from credit card companies wanting me to sign up, seems not as many anymore. Always getting that wonderful spam e-mail, but if I didn't get that I probably wouldn't get much e-mail at all.

Joe, sometimes I wonder if some of the chain automotive parts stores try to hire guys that know cars, or just anyone off the street. This reminds me of a story I heard yesterday. A friend of mine is finishing up a street rod and went uptown to the local autozone to get some parts for his motor which is a 350 Chevy. He told the guy at the counter he needed some parts for a 350 Chevy, guy had no idea how to look it up without the year, make, and model. He said, "C'mon it's for a 350." Guy said that he had to know the vehicle to look it up. He then said well it's for a '37 Willys. That guy didn't know what to say then, he was totally confused. I try to avoid those stores, as I've already had an autozone alternator and O'reilly fuel pump fail on me. I just go to Napa or a good local parts store.

Looking good Joe. Always feel good to accomplish something. Keep plugging away and you'll get it done soon enough.

I run into that a lot Norm in my line of work. Seems that car companies that see certain parts not being sold anymore they just stop making them. I had a customer with a '98 Bonneville not to long ago and we could not get a oem door for it. Had to find salvage or the car was a total loss due to not being able to find the parts. My guess is that some of these parts are sitting in a warehouse somewhere, but no one wants to take the time to find it.

I was searching for some additional info on the 12v conversion and found the link below. It is for Kaiser cars, but has almost the same wiring connections and items to convert as those cars were 6V positive ground too. Also has info on wiring the Ford 4 post solenoid into the equation. http://www.kaiserbill.com/Alt-Conversion-Kit.pdf Question for those of you who have switched over to a one wire GM alternator. What did you connect your voltage sensing wire to? If you splice it into the connection on the positive side of coil, without a diode you run the risk of running the battery down and the engine will not shut off. So is it best to connect it to the "BAT" terminal?

This is interesting, guy turned a 4 door sedan into a sedan delivery. Does give it a different look, I would think it would be hard to see out the back though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Plymouth-1947-PLYMOUTH-4-dr-STREET-ROD-RAT-ROD-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ320344574312QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item320344574312&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318