steveplym

There's one on ebay right now. Looks to be in pretty good shape. Link to auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1946-47-48-MOPAR-PLYMOUTH-SPECIAL-DELUXE-EMBLEM_W0QQitemZ310126160551QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item310126160551&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

I installed a mechanical one from watson street works after two stints with the hydraulic one. I've got a pretty good picture of mine, just drilled two holes in the floor pan and bolted it up.

I've purchased the 3 wire. 1 and 2 terminal on top and then the large BAT terminal. #1 is for the idiot light, BAT hooks up to the battery, and I am assuming if I hooked #2 up to the solenoid it would work alright? As this is the tickle wire.

I just bought a Ford 4 pole solenoid for my car as I'm converting to 12 volts too. I've heard both sides of the "keep or not to keep" the 6v starter debate. I think I will try the 6v starter for a little while and see how much abuse my bendix and flywheel ring gear take. I do plan on checking to see how much it would cost to convert it to a 12V starter though. I've also checked to see if I can find a newer 12V that will work like Don C and others have done. For Greg G, so if I connect the pole on the solenoid that is 12V when the starter is cranking to the alternator, is that enough to tickle it and get it charging without getting up to 1200 rpm?

I bought one from Roberts. Steele probably would have been the best one, but I had ran out of money at the time and was looking for a cheap alternative. I took the vent out and let the seal sit out in the sun a while. Then I used vice grips and paint sticks cut into fours to get the corners to stick down. I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive. I ended up getting a little bit of adhesive on the cowl where I didn't want it, but it came off with some surface cleaner. It's not perfect, but it seals and looks good.

Wow that thing is looking nice. I really the colors you chose. Will look really nice in your car.

Yeah mine has the 3 screw terminals and I was hoping to find something like that as I would have to use the spade connectors as Ed said if I used a typical 3 prong flasher. In town here we only have an O'reillys and an Autozone so it can be tough to explain to some of these guys at the stores what I need. If I don't know what application it is for they sometimes have trouble looking it up.

I found this one on Ebay. States will fit Chrysler, Dodge, Desoto, and Plymouth '55-'56. Looks like the one I have in the car now. It's cheap enough, may buy it and see how it works.

I'm completing the last list of parts I'll need for the 12V conversion. I have a aftermarket turn signal switch with a 3 terminal 6 volt flasher. I am assuming I will need to replace this as well? I've looked several places and I was wondering where I can find a 12V version of this flasher? Did the newer mopars, say '56 and newer have the 12V version on them? Thanks in advance for any info.

I'm pretty sure that blueskies has the Langdon HEI in his car. He might chime in here or send him a PM.

Yeah using their coil is a good tip as that is what I did on the 283.

I've installed a petronix kit on a small block 283 I have and have had no problems with it for about 7 years now. I always keep the points and condenser handy in the glove box if anything goes wrong. Thought this would be a good route to go on the Plymouth. Even if I went with the original points I would have to carry a spare dizzy or extra set of points as most bubble pack auto parts stores do not have these parts in stock.

Refresh my memory here, if I use a 12V coil with an internal resistor there is no need to change the points? Should I go ahead and change the condenser? That is if I keep the points. I'd really like to go to Petronix, but may wait until the fall.

Thanks Suddensix. I think I'll try to call them in the morning. Gotta get that distributor # first though.

Neat picture Robin! Neat to see the different types of P-15's in the pic. Sure would be nice to hang that picture on the garage wall.

I thought I remember someone telling me that Petronix made a unit that would fit the flathead cars that were switched over to 12v neg ground. Seemed that one kit that fit a massey tractor would fit our cars. Anyone know or remember?

I've never heard of that kit Scott. Seems it would be easy to do though if you got the glass cut and sealed it in the door with urethane. I know on the P-15 all you would have to do is seal it into the door molding. Seems it would look better if you just made a one piece glass. There are kits out there for different cars with the one piece glass. Not sure if there are any out there for a p-15 yet.

I usually find the best burgers at the local bar and grills. I do like sonic, but I like they coney dogs probably the best. Grilled chicken sandwich isn't bad either. Chili pies are always good too, a lot of there stuff is a bit overpriced in my opinion, but what isn't anymore.

Don, Is that ballast resistor commonly found at auto parts stores and is there a certain size needed or is it universal? How is it wired into the ignition system?

The trunk lid is much different on the Australian version of the P-15. Thought that was very interesting.

Check out this Plymouth Deluxe coupe on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Plymouth-Coupe-1947-Plymouth-Deluxe-Coupe_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a2Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem110354352853QQitemZ110354352853QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks Auction says you'd be hard pressed to find one of these coupes.

Yeah you can get them. Here a link to a place that sells them. http://www.highspeedmotors.com/Webled.html There is information there that I think will answer your question too.

Lacquer is good paint to start out with. My car was a lacquer paint job, but after 20 years or so it started to crack. I think that single stage enamel is better than lacquer, but it is all about what you prefer. Frank, I'm not sure what you mean by enamel being un retouchable. I assume you mean that you can't blend the color into the panel if you get a small dent, etc. I've touched up my single stage paint jobs with a matchbook stick, can hardly tell it's there if you get up close. Then you can sand it with 1500 and rub it out. Can't tell there was even a chip or scratch. Now if you have a pretty good dent in it you would have to paint the entire panel as it will not blend like basecoat/clearcoat would. Unless it is a large panel that should not be too much of a hassle. Even with lacquer I would suggest painting the whole panel so it would match correctly. If not you will see a line where you stopped painting on that panel. With basecoat and clearcoat you could blend in your base over you repaired area and then you would still have to clear the whole panel to make it right.

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll ask again closer to the date and see if anyone wants to go to Lebanon. Florissant sounds good, but is about 2 hours for me. Lebanon is a little less than an 1hr and 1/2. Will have to see how much driving I want to do that day.

The only problem I ever had with color matching when painting a veh with panels off is on pearl colors and metallic colors. Most solid colors that come out of the same paint can match well. Especially when dealing with single stage enamel. I've painted 3 cars this way and it is the easiest way to paint an entire car in my opinion and I haven't had any color matching issues. This was using single stage enamel on two of them and basecoat clear on the other one being the Plymouth.