steveplym

Bernbaums got them for $35. http://www.oldmoparts.com/k.htm Roberts has them for about the same price I think. http://www.robertsmotorparts.com I've used Roberts a lot and like them. Andy B can get a bit irritating sometimes.

I assume you mean horn relay? Does Napa carry horn relays for our cars Bob? If not there are other options. Kanter, Andy Bernbaum, Roberts, etc.

My center bracket is bolted to the hood. I know last year when I put my engine back in the car, I just unbolted the hood from the bracket and hinges. Made it much easier to reinstall the hood.

Is this Young Ed's first State of the Plymouth union address? I knew Don C was mentioned as a campaign manager, but I didn't know he was writing his speeches for him now.

I purchased a Lincoln Mig Pak 10 from Eastwood several years ago. I really like the Lincoln welders and it has lasted quite a while without any problems. I had a Hobart welder at one time too, and it worked well. Only difference I found between the Lincoln and some of the other cheaper welders is that the wire was hot at all times, with the lincoln you had to press the trigger button for the circuit to complete. So you can put your wire right down where you want to start, the flip you hood down and go. I got a few flashes in my eyes before I got used to it with the Hobart. I agree with Tim though on an arc welder. I wouldn't use one on thin steel. Not only do you have to worry about burn thru, but there is a higher chance of warping the metal. I've warped metal with a grinder before, it's no picnic when it is in the center of a door you are trying to put a lower patch panel on. Live and learn.

I had the same problem with my car too James. Did a lot of realigning and fitting. Those hinges are tricky with the large springs. You have to get everything right or it will not fit or close right. I've got the hood brace on mine and it helps support the hood. These hoods are pretty flimsy and I could see with weak springs how you would damage one.

Welcome Rabid Scott. Don't worry about it being a '40, if you've got a flathead your in the right place.

Make sure you put a good, thick wire in the column. Over time from turning the wheel it will rub at the bottom of the column and usually short out. Then the horn will continue to honk. I had this problem. Good thing about learning about your car now and where everything is at is when a problem presents itself, you'll be able to figure it out easier. Good luck with your wiring project. Post some pics if you can.

Don your car looks awesome inside and out. It really turned out nice. I can't wait to see it with the interior done. Good luck on the interior project. Looks like David has given you a wealth of info here.

I've got a center lamp housing too Don. It is probably in about the same condition as yours. Those clips from RJL that I sent you a picture of a few months ago worked for my quarter stainless. Just a tip, you might want to get the quarter stainless on before the finish the upholstery as the only way to get to the front clips is through the interior. You can get to some of the rear ones through the trunk. That is if you have bolt and nut type clips, not the snap on kind.

My hood ornament is like yours Ed and only has one of those clips on it. The other two bolts just have regular washers on them. I can't remember though if the large clip goes at the front or the rear. I'm thinking the front, but I can't remember.

Mine is a special deluxe and does not have the stainless around the rear window, like Norm said. Did any of the Plymouths have stainless around the rear window. I didn't think any of the p-15's did.

Nice job Ed. I'd like to see the article too, please post if you can.

If your dash looks a lot like this I'd say it is a special deluxe. I think painted wheels and a few other options signifies it as a special deluxe. It also says special deluxe in the center of the dash.

Well is your car a deluxe or special deluxe. The special deluxe usually has lots of chrome on the dash and the regular deluxe does not. These go on the rear top of the fenders below the hood.

I purchased both the entire cable assembly from Roberts. It was a little bit longer than the original, but it does work. I had problems with noise last summer and when I took the dash out I lubricated the speedometer with pneumatic tool oil. I drove the car and the noise was gone, it hasn't come back yet. I think the old cable was getting very old and had not been lubed in a while. That pretty much sealed its doom.

Here ya go.

I think Bob T's got a picture of it. I'll see if I can find it in the archives.

Welcome to the forum Micah. Nice looking car. The light on the trunk lid is the brake light. You can rewire them so the taillights are brakelights too. Just need double filament bulb and sockets on the taillights. If you car has turnsignals that should already be the case. There are aftermarket mechanical brake light switches you can buy that work off of the brake pedal. These cars originally had a pressure type switch that was mounted on a brake line block below the left side of the firewall. Not sure about the electric fuel pump as I have a mechanical pump. Does your car have the original flathead or did the owner put a V8 in?

Looks good Fred. That color will look good on your car. Lots of wetsanding and polishing should make it look even better.

I didn't change anything on the suspension when I changed to radials. I've been running them for about 8 years now without any problems. Other than the car drives much better now.

Looks like a great project Bob. Was the transmission okay after all those years sitting? Looks like you are going to make a nice driver out of it. Good luck, I look forward to following your progress.

Looking good Fred. All it takes is time and money. Seems when I've got one of those, I don't have the other.