steveplym

I knew the man that used to own this car. He was much into swap meets and had lots of nick nacks. Enjoyed different types of lights on the cars and big horns. As you can see by this car. This is a pretty nice car, good running car too. I think he got the flathead in the car out of an old combine. It has changed owners several times since he passed away of cancer several years ago. He always had lots of mopar parts and really any kind of part you needed. I wondered where that car went. Guess I know now. He always had a lot of fun in this car. Loud horns and lots of lights can be pleasing to some folks I guess. He had a lot of knowledge on these old cars too.

I've been thinking if I ever decide to put a radio in my car I will get a hidden antenna. I would put an aftermarket radio in with speakers probably built into a wooden console. Something like 47heaven has. Found some links for hidden antennas. http://www.ecshylites.citymax.com/page/page/761353.htm http://www.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/9206/HAB http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Radio-Antennas,4586.html

Wow! Very nice car Ramon.

I'm into street rods and customs, but that car is a bit over the top for me. It is very gaudy. I like the shaved handles, tailgate chains, bed stake pockets, etc. Just not into the remoulding of an entire panel. Different strokes for different folks.

You are correct about the wire size. If you get a service manual and go up to the 1949 diagram it will tell you the wire gauge on each circuit. It helps as you can compare that to the P-15 and used that gauge wire. Like I said on most circuits where I knew there would be high current such as the batt wire to the regulator, wires to the generator, etc, etc. I used 10, then used 12 on most everything else, used some 14 on some less heavy duty circuits. Didn't use much that was less than 14.

Hello and welcome to the forum. So you are running 6v then correct? Make sure you have your battery with negative post to positive and positive post to ground, as this is a positive ground system. You will need wires coming out both sides of the ammeter. One side goes to the big terminal on the solenoid that goes out to the battery. The other side goes to the ignition switch, the bat terminal on the regulator, and to the headlamp switch. From the ignition switch it powers up the flasher, out to the negative terminal on the coil as it is positive ground. Think all negative is positive and positive is negative. Like a three stooges reel I saw once. Also goes from the iginition switch to the flasher if you have turn signals and to the fuel gauge. With 6 volt you will also need very large battery cables. 00 is recommended as the wires required for 6 volt need to be larger. Almost all my car is wired with 10, 12, and 14 gauge wiring. I went ahead and linked the p-15 wiring diagram here to explain. I replaced my harness one wire at a time by following the diagram. Worked very well and go rid of that old rat nest of wires. Another thing I just thought about with your comment about the ammeter being connected to the horn relay. That wire on that leg of the diagram does not run right to the horn relay. The relay and that wire to the ammeter connect to the terminal going to the battery on the solenoid. In the picture below you can see the connection.

Andy it is setup with using the wide belt. I purchased a wide pulley from Speedway here in states. There available from several other places as well. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Alternator-5and8-Wide-Belt-Pulley-Plain,1868.html

I was thinking the same thing as you Shel. I've had problems where the total is say $6.25, I hand the counter person a $10 bill and a $1 bill, with .25 cents. They look at me and go "what?". I explain I want a $5 bill back, not 3 $1 bills and .75 cents. Then they understand, I guess. Some people are just careless as they get busy.

It should have a way to get into it. Not sure if it is adjustable then. Like I said earlier in this thread I have a voltage regulator that is already setup for 8 volts. I do not need it anymore as I converted my car to 12 volt negative. If you interested pm me and we can work something out.

Had a battery blow up in my face once. Luckily it didn't do any damage to me, but put a whole in my shirt and pants. Stupidly jumped my mom's car one time with another guys. Hooked the guys truck up first with the truck running, then hooked it up to the car. One spark hooking up the positive post and BOOM sounded like dynamite. I'm always very careful when jumping a car or hooking up a battery charger. Keep the sparks to a minimum if none at all. I don't want to get that surprise again.

Yeah Don they did. You have to get the motor up to 1200 rpm before it will begin charging, but that is not a problem. With the volt meter it is very easy to see. Plus it never stops charging until you shut the engine off. Special thanks to everyone on this forum who has helped me in any capacity along the way. It's nice to know if you can't figure it out there are people out there who have done the same thing, or may know just how to do it or someone who does know. That is why this forum is the best on the net.

Well after a long weekend and a couple days of figuring out how to get the things to work that worked before the switch, all is well. I went with the one wire delco alternator. Easy to wire and charges great. Special thanks to Don C for his alternator pics. They helped immensely, as well as all the other links I've looked through and different threads on here. The switch was relatively easy if you are not scared of wiring and electrical components. Car starts really well and with the addition of a voltmeter things are easy to monitor. Kept the ammeter as well and just switched the wires. Here's some pics of the alternator bracket and etc. I ordered a universal alternator bracket, reused the upper bracket and modified it a bit. Used the battery hold down already in the car. Just modified it too. Solenoid is a ford 4 pole solenoid. That was about $18 at the auto parts store. With the battery I just took dimensions of the battery that was in the car and found one that would fit.

That chart was very helpful when I went to the auto parts store today and purchased the bulbs. Got all the lights working and turn signals too.

I need to change the bulb in the rear dome light. How do you get to the bulb, and how does the outer glass come off? I'm trying to do this without damaging my headliner.

Never mind I just found one. This may be useful for others too, I'll post a link. http://www.power-21.com/federalmogulpower21i/RelatedInfoWindow.aspx?f=4102.pdf

This got me thinking about other bulbs I may have missed. The under dash bulbs are #63, what is their 12 volt equivalent? Is there a chart somewhere that will crossover the numbers for 6v to 12v?

Thanks guys for the info. I didn't realize that 1154 was a 6V bulb.

The bulbs I have for the taillights and brake lights in my car are #1154. Is this the right # I need? I have both taillights, brakelights, and turn signal on the right side, but I only can get the taillights to work on the right side. I'm thinking the contacts on the bulb are not touching the right contacts on the socket. I tried to change that by seeing where the bulb contacts sit when turned into position, then pulling out the plug socket and readjusting the contacts. That worked on the left side, but I still can't get it to work on the right side. I'm thinking ground, but I even put a separate ground wire on the socket and ran it to a good ground on the frame. No good. I have power coming from the brake switch as it lights up my test light on the high side.

That unfortunately is why our country is in the shape it is in. Too many good campaigners in office, and no one with the smarts to know what to do.

Here's a picture of the settings in the service manual. Go here on the main page and there is lots of info on valve adjustment under tech tips. http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/techtipframeset.html With which one is intake and which one is exhaust. It varies on each cylinder. What I did was start at #1 TDC and looked to see which one was opening up, that was the intake as it would open first, and then the exhaust last. I went through and checked all that and marked them on a sheet of paper. Then I turn the engine by hand and adjusted them to spec. I still had some noise after adjusting them the first time. I did adjust them hot with gloves on. After that I went thru each one with the engine running and when the noise stopped or got quieter with the feeler gauge in between the valve and the tappet I would adjust it some more. It took care of a lot of my noise. Just be careful as you don't want to over adjust them and burn a valve. It's better to have a little bit of noise and no burned valves, rather than the other way around.

I went with the rocker trim. Mine is in pretty good shape though, and looks better than the rockers in my opinion.

Does the switch need to be grounded? I'm thinking it should be grounded to the hose clamp that holds it in place. Yes, it grounds through the clamp on the steering wheel. The orange wire is supposed to go to the stoplight switch. I found the side that has power when I step on the brakes. Do I just jump into that wire and leave the original wire still connected? Ok, on my P-15 the center lamp on the trunk only lit up with the brake light switch. What I did was take the orange wire from the turn signal switch and the wire that went into the existing brake light switch, put them together in a connector and connected them to the brake light switch. This ran the taillight/turn signal lights on the side, they light up with the center brake light now when the brake is applied. So if you have the same type of setup you can do it that way. If you only have two lamps in the back just hook the orange wire up to the brake light switch. It will send the voltage thru the turn signal switch and back to the taillights. I'm using the stock stop/tail lights for the rear signals. Do I hook into the tail light side or brake light side? Do I just tap into one of the wires or cut it and connect it directly to the switch (bypassing the original wire)? Connect the brake light side directly to the turn signal switch. The turn signal switch will control everything on the brake light side of the bulb. That way your turn signals will be nice and bright as well as the brake lights. Keep the tail lights connected to the headlamp switch. I don't have front lights picked out yet, will the rears work with the front unhooked? I'm not sure, I've never had them unhooked. I just forgot about parking lights with these and ran the wires directly to the turn signal switch. I read on here that the napa 535 flasher works well so I'll try to buy one tomorrow. I would really appreciate any help, I'm hoping to hook this up tomorrow afternoon. You just need a 3 prong flasher, and in your case it needs to be 6 volt. It should have 3 letters on it, "p", "L", and "x" or "+". One I bought from Andy B has a p and L, but no other letters, just figured that is where the power wire went to.

Looks like your on your way Joel. Man those floor boards are ate up! That is some project you got there. With that tubing it should be very structurally sound.

Well I went and got a new buss 550 flasher today. Hooked it up and the turn signal switch is doing nothing. Checked my brake lights and now the center stop lamp works, which is connected directly to the brake light switch, but the outside lights do not light up anymore. They are wired directly through the turn signal switch. I've got power at the flasher and all the wires are good. Looks like I burnt up my switch. It is a cheap $20 one I bought off of ebay several years ago. Wanted a more heavy duty one anyway, just wasn't wanting to buy it so soon. I was checking the lights yesterday and forgot I had removed one of the bulbs from the back turn signal lights to get replaced with a 12 volt. Maybe I burnt up the switch in the process.

I live right in front of a corn field, so field mice come around every winter. Sometimes in the summer too. Funny thing is that my garage is not heated so I have never seen any evidence of mice in my garage, always one or two get in the house every winter though. I finally found out where they are coming in at and put Dcon right next to the entrance. Gets them almost every time. I went through the traps, etc. Got the poison and got rid of them all.