Los_Control

And you expect us to remember where all those cotton pickin wires go? Surely you jest!

Just something to think about. Anytime you have two cylinders next to each other with exact same compression, and lower then the rest, they could be suspect for a leak between them. They would be connected through the warped head/bad gasket and share the exact same compression. And because of the higher volume of space of combined cylinders, the compression would be lower. And of course, could be nothing wrong, they just happen to be the same. Could be you just rounded the numbers off to 80, actually one was 79 psi and the other was 82 psi. These cylinders would be reading differently and not throw a red flag. And all this means to me, if I suspect some issue and doing a compression test looking for the issue, I would check those 2 cylinders multiple times to be positive they were constantly reading the same. Then when head was pulled, I would be looking very carefully at those 2 cylinders for some sort of trail.

As a newbie myself, I think that maybe nobody wants to reveal their sources. If you buy a part this week, sure enough they will need same part next week and they will all be gone. I myself just got a 1949 B1C and am wondering about brake shoes. I see Rockauto.com has some wheel cylinders and master cylinder, but not seeing shoes or drums. Am curious about what others are doing for these items.

Molly is a spinner \o/ I just put the hand crank through the grill and with the plugs out, turned freely.I do have a battery on a charger , never did install it. I saw that the ground wire was for a 12 volt system and not 6volt. And it was attached to the transmission, not where it belongs. I pulled the distributor cap and was going to clean and reset the points, it really looked so clean already I decided to leave it alone. Pulled the seat and looked at the rust on the floor, there is some but not as bad as I expected it to be. Realized it has the soft/firm adjustable seat, has the instruction .tag up above the windshield for it. Just a lot of tinkering and comparing notes between the 2 trucks. Just not sure when will get back to it, in the process of moving a 8'x20' building on the property, is sitting up in the air on blocks and a trailer ready to back under it. When the building is moved and back on the ground, then flower pot gets moved back to where the bed is, and then molly will be moved so is room to work on it. As is, just barely enough room to squeeze by it and a pita to do anything. But very pleased the motor is not froze up at all.

You guys crack me up Finish my coffee and on my way over to play, will be laughing all day!!!

That was my first impression, or maybe a stress crack that was common with these years. After reading this from Jeff, and thinking of the rust on the back of the cab. They are all inline with each other and basically floor height. I expect to find more surprises under there, when I get all the original flooring and rug up, seat removed and all cleaned and swept out. Water would get in through the broken glass, and sit on the floor in this area. Makes me concerned about the cab mounts to the frame back there. I am naive, in thinking this will just be work and a few extra steps to repair, the cab will be off anyways and all flat metal and easy to duplicate. As long as it is a solid welded patch panel, wont bother me if it does not look 100% original. Very few would be able to see it or tell the difference anyways. And I will need a area like this to practice on, before I tackle the rust on the bottom of the door skins.

I am also new to the forum, found it a great place for info. I read this article the other day and thought it was vert well put together. Was a good read.

How often does the opportunity come along, to remove and refurbish your floorboards? I would suggest, not nearly enough. I would welcome this chance, and you could remove your steering box/column while at it.

Myself, I would run straight water until all coolant issues were repaired. Water will boil faster then 50/50 antifreeze, but if it is overheating, again is a cooling system issue you need to deal with. No sense in wasting the antifreeze or allowing it to leak on the ground, where animals could drink the sweet tasting antifreeze and die.

Ok, game on! I let uncle settle down over the property dispute deal, and then approached him with the deal, trade my labor for molly. He is very pleased to do it, happy to see someone in the family fix it up. And save him some cash at the same time. The picture below is not molly, we will call it "flower pot" I will push it straight back where the bed is, and switch the bed off the frame onto flower pot. I checked the engine, and it is the original 1952 flathead, numbers start with T306, I will pull the motor to eventually put in the 49. I could use some ideas on what all to keep. Just plan on making it a roller, and the girl wants it for yard art, will never be driven again. Sometimes it would be real easy to forget a important piece that I may need later and very difficult to find. I plan to keep, motor, radiator, heater, maybe the fuel tank. I was also given another plymouth flathead 6 that was in the truck that the bed is coming from. Gives me 3 218 flathed sixes to work with. I pulled the plugs on molly today and put some oil in the holes, give it a couple days to do it's work, before trying to turn it by hand. I also found some more rust in the cab today, nothing to bad, just another thing to fix. Second photo is the newly found rust, When you close the door, you can see that cab corner move. It sits nice and flush and hard to see, for the photo I am actually holding it in my left hand and pushing it back to expose it. I just thought it was a odd place to rust myself.

I think it is that Ford moss that falls off

Where do you feel it? Is it in the seat of your pants, or the steering wheel? I had a 51 ford with bad king pins, get it to certain speed/rpm on the highway and it would shake like it was going to fall apart. Only way to stop it was to pull over to a stop , take off again. But where you feel the vibration, will help eliminate a lot of possibilities..

Like to thank JBNeal for the photo. I really had no idea that molly was the hunter green. Under all the years cruft. I finally had a chance to talk with uncle today and tell him my intentions with Molly were true. He seems to want to sell me the better of the 2, the 52 1/2 ton with the bed, and I still want Molly with no bed and build one. I just said lets sleep on it, Will see you tomorrow and we talk then. I am a future owner of a mopar flathead 6 truck \o/

We could really get iin trouble here, talking about rearends. Do these tires make my rear look fat?

Just my tw0 cents. If high gear in the trans is 1:1, then will be same rpm in 3 speed high gear as a 4 speed high gear. The 4 speed has the granny low that you early use, how often will you pull stumps with your truck? So the 4 speed is essentially a 3 speed with a sexy stump pulling gear in reserve. I do think the 4 speed is a stronger transmission. The 3 speed I bet has slightly different gearing getting to top gear. The weak link on a 3 speed is the 3 on the tree linkage. It actually works very well, but always got ignored in the routine maintenance schedule, so it needs new bushings and shims and lots of grease to get operating again. The sexy thing about the 3 speed, is the shifter on the column. I think what you really want is info on the rearend gear ratio, and what rearend to use. What I gather, and am very new to just researching this info myself, it is a set of 3.73 gears wiith a 4 speed trans to make it more drivable. I have yet to see anyone with a 3 speed talk about a gear change and if the 3:73 also work for them.

bit by the 3mb upload

If you have a really good imagination, you might say 1 piece. I took these pics today of a B1C 116" wheel base, sorry did not think to just take 1 pic of the drive line for you. Pic on the right you can see the end of the old muffler, pic on the left you can see the end of the muffler and further up the line. The driveline you can make out between the fuel tank and exhaust. Nowhere is there a crossmember to hang a carrier bearing on, for a 2 piece driveline. Where the driveline conncts to the tranny, is just another 12" or so up the line and would be silly to have a 12" long 2 piece driveline hiding under the cab that the pic does not show.

Actually I like that news, I have not yet told uncle I wanted to deal for the dodge. He still wants to make a flower pot out of the 49 B1C. He has a 1954 1/2 ton ford truck roller, I think it would make a perfect flower pot. His opinion is, there's a million of those old fords out there, nobody has one like the dodge .... so we will see. When he finds out the 1/2 ton bed wont fit as is, he will have to use the 1/2 ton parts truck. I think the value of the 1949 just went down, And as a carpenter, I like a nicely made flatbed. I will approach him on a deal soon, but try to find out as much as I can first .... like what motor is in the 1/2 ton. Thanks again for the info, I read about the wheel base difference and you told me about it, still did not know for sure if the bed was a B1B or not.

Had better pics, wanted to show the rust in the front sheetmetal, but they did not turn out for some reason. Anyway here is a good idea of the 1949 I want to fix. and the parts that go with it. I mentioned to uncle that the grille was gone in the 52, He claimed he had some of that around also. He has a pile of doors and hoods near by, is another pilot house hood in the pile so who knows. He has one shed with just good tires and wheels, another shed with alternators, generators, heads and intakes, One shed is full of complete running engines and working trans, iirc, think he does have one shed with just chrome and grilles, headlights and tail lights etc.

the parts truck engine I did not get the number off of it.

more engine, rats nest in carb then the bed

engine number

Well, I got the wifes ok, she told me .... Ride her one time , and you going to have her move in huh? I showed her B!B kevens truck and she liked it. I went over to uncle's place today, but was just not a good day to discuss trucks. Been a ongoing property dispute with the neighbor, uncle was at the lawyers yesterday and the surveyor was out today. All went well and just like uncle told the kid in the first place. The surveyor drove a stake in the irrigation line and caused a flood, neighbors called the cops cause they did not like the surveyor telling them where the true property lines were ... just a mess. All day was one thing after another. I got a few pics while I was out there. not messing with things to much until we make a deal. I found a crank that fits through the grill and the motor, stuffed it in the cab. Pretty tight where it is parked, either stand back and take pics, or get real close. I took a pic of the number off the engine block on the 1949, not sure what it means. I did see the bottom of the doors have some rust, I did not see it the first time. The 49 is a B1C, The 52 parts truck with no title, is a 1/2 ton but the tag is missing off the A pillar. Anyway here is a few pics to give idea what I am looking at, until I own them, I am not doing anything. I am a nuub so the site will only allow me to add a couple pics, will have to make another post.

Good info and thank you, I say 1/2 ton because of the 5 on 4.1/2" bolt pattern, but maybe the older dodges had 3/4 ton with 5 lug? I did notice that the rear leaf packs on the 52 parts truck, were considerably smaller and softer then the huge stack the 49 has. I kinda wrote this off as having overloads, could be it is a 3/4 ton. I will check the tag, both trucks do have the tags. And both have the short running boards. The 3rd frame with the bed, has the long running boards. Will go back out there tomorrow to get some work done and take some pics while am there. I know where to expect to find the numbers on the engine blocks, identify them. I am wondering if a number on the rear axles to identify the gear ratio? Wonder if checking the vin number would be a more complete way? I dunno. But thanks for the tip, I saw the tags but had no idea what they were telling me.

Like to say hello, this is my first post here. Been reading for the past couple days and what a amazing source of info. Thank you very much. I have not yet pulled the trigger and made the deal for the 49 dodge. Will be honest with you, have watched this red headed step child, sit in the corner of my uncles yard for over 25 years. I have been looking for a flathead ford truck for some time, I had a 1951 ford flatty v8 when I was in high school. Last weekend, I helped my uncle move Molly to another spot in the yard, (yeah I named her already) She really impressed me. She is an all original, un-butchered titled 1949 1/2 ton pilot house. I found 3 rust spots in the cab, 1 under the rear window at the bottom of the cab, easy repair, 1 at the drivers door top hinge, and 1 pin hole in the floor. It still has carpet in it, over the top of the original rubber mat, probably will find more when removed. All the gauges and chrome look to be in excellent condition and a easy interior restore, Odometer shows 96k miles, will assume is original and not 196k. No radio and still has original cover where radio would be installed. I need to check the motor, think it to be the original 218 with factory 4 speed. Clutch feels good and goes through all gears. Have not attempted to turn motor over. It is complete with the oil bath airfilter, original radiator horn unmolested wiring, just looks all original and untouched. Uncle bought it for $300 years ago and drove it to where it was parked. He has over 2 acres with old trucks and cars, you know the type I believe it was a factory flatbed, it has no bed and short cab length running boards. It comes with a complete 1952 parts truck with no title, all the sheet metal is rusted, flathead 6 with a 3speed trans, trans top was removed years ago and most likely why it was parked. Again it has short cab length running boards and no bed. And there is a complete bed sitting on a 1/2 ton frame, looks like someone planned to make a utility trailer and cut the frame and cab off. Gas tank, rearend stock wheels and hubcaps tailgate all there. Needs a little body work for dings and such, but no rust and decent original black paint. It needs all new flooring and it has the tall sides on it, believe to be correct for the 49. Now uncle told me that he was going to take the 1949 and put the bed on it, give it to his niece for yard art and plant flowers in the back of it. He was serious , He owns a few 55 ford trucks, 52 ford, 47 ford, old flathead internationals that he drives, 55 packard, 53 plymouth wagon 60's chrysler 300's, 46 chevy truck, couple 49's a 57 with corvette 327. He was going to make a flower pot out of the dodge. I talked him out of doing that I think, I looked up on craigslist all over the country for trucks to compare it to, I told him what they were asking for them. He seems to think he should be able to get $1500 for what he has then, I think I would like to be the one to give it to him. He is 80 years old, trying to get his house in shape. Idea is, when he passes, will be less for his kids to take care of. I am a retired remodel carpenter and he wants to pay me, I want to buy his truck ... Is this how it all starts? Going back over there tomorrow, need to make a decision if I want to deal for the truck or not. I am currently remodeling a 1947 travel trailer for him, then he wants to start on the house after. Any idea how to explain this to the wife? Honey, I have met Molly and she is going to be taking up some of my time. Anyways I just wanted to say hello, wonder if you have any advice for me on what to look for, how to go about getting the truck to start ... if it will, or have the other engine also to work with. Any links you might share that would help me etc. I plan to put some oil in the cylinders before attempting to turn them over, thought about hooking a gas can up to the carb and see what happens. My only goal so far is to make a daily driver/grocery getter. Not a total restore or show truck.