Bob Riding

I'm just starting the removal of my 230 donor engine to replace the 218 in the wagon. After watching all of @keithb7 videos, I think I can handle the job! Thanks, Keith! It is a running engine and actually sounds pretty good, except for a slight tapping sound that increases with rpm. I disconnected the driveline yesterday and plan to remove the 3spd from the block today so I can get it out. View it here: '56 Plymouth flathead running I did some compression tests and here are the results. The engine was up to operating temp on test 1, but on re-testing the next day, it was only slightly warm on test 2. Test 3 was done immediately following 2, but with a teaspoon of engine oil added to each cylinder. Cylinder 1 2 3 4 5 6 Test 1 110 112 115 121 120 130 Test 2 115 120 118 128 128 138 Test 3 w oil 125 135 130 130 138 145 A couple of observations/questions: Would the differences between test 2 and 3 be traceable to rings, valves or possibly both? I am definitely planning to lap the valves. The service manual says the compression pressure should be 120-150 psi. How much does that change once the motor is broken in? The engine is listed as having a compression ratio of 7.6 to 1. How does that 7.6 to 1 ratio change if the cylinder pressures are lower? Does a 10% pressure drop in the cylinders equate with a 10% loss of power? The PO had some work done on the engine and the head was off - there is a new head gasket, water pump, fuel pump, gas tank, etc. How can I tell if he had the head shaved- i.e. what is the factory thickness of a 1956 Plymouth head? I couldn't find it in the service manual. My brother-in-law, who has rebuilt all kinds of engines, wonders if the tapping noise may be a rod bearing or a wrist pin, and thinks that I should do a complete teardown. Enough questions! Thanks for the help

I just wanted to recognize our fellow Forum member, Go Fleiter, for the help he’s provided my friend and I in obtaining rare parts from Europe for his 1948 Peugeot woody wagon. It seems to be one of two left in the US, which makes the parts hunting quite fun! Two in the Country: 1948 Peugeot Woodie WagonWe needed to purchase three engine main bearings and as far as we could tell the only ones available anywhere were for sale from a French vendor who wouldn’t ship to the United States (or non-EU countries)I reached out to Go. He received the parts from the French company, mailed them to my friend in California and then wouldn’t take any money for the postage suggesting we donate the amount to a charity to help with the situation in Ukraine. Interesting note: the original box has a 1960 date- obviously NOS! Thanks Go! This camaraderie and willingness to help is what makes our hobby so fulfilling.

Awesome info- thanks Loren - I will check it out.

I'm looking at enhancements for my '40 wagon, and since it will be getting a heart transplant soon (230 engine and power pack setup) from a '56 Plymouth, I started wondering what other more modern technologies would be transferrable to the old girl. The '56 has power brakes - I don't think the original is in good enough shape to use, but I wonder if there are aftermarket vendors who sell "universal" power brake kits to boost the old drum brakes?

I am doing an engine swap between my '56 with the Power Pack option (230cu in with 2bbl carb, 132hp) and my current powerplant in the wagon, a 218 with 2-1bbls and split exhaust. The 230 is running and still in the car. I want to do a valve adjust before I pull it. Keith's videos show him doing the adjust while the engine is running. Flat Head Chrysler Valve Clearance Check The Tech Tips suggest bringing it up to operating temp and then shut it off and do it hot. Others say cold with different tolerances. Thoughts?

Hershey's Chocolate!

My D14 Business Coupe center horn button was a darkish brown. Here is the D14 booklet.

Because it's not finished, it's hard to give it an accurate price estimate. The 2020 Collector Car Price Guide lists your car in in #4 condition "GOOD - A drivable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional. All components may need restoration to be 'excellent', but the vehicle is mostly usable 'as is'. $5,660. # 3 condition "VERY GOOD - Completely operable original or older restoration showing wear. Also a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components or a partially restored vehicle with all parts necessary to complete and/or valuable NOS parts. $12,740. So your $8,300 price seems reasonable. As to whether or not you can find THE buyer, I think expanding your ad though other media will help. I've had good luck through Facebook Marketplace. Also BAT (Bring a Trailer) and even Hemmings. I've also found that if you can say that it "runs and drives" you will have better luck.

Mine has only one choke and it always has worked well. I have dual Carters with George Asche's setup.

Not sure if you can read the text, but the Deluxe had the 235hp motor, while the standard New Yorker got the 195hp. In order to make that 40hp increase, Chrysler added " a four barrel carb, larger air cleaner, improved intake manifolding, larger exhaust manifold; dual exhaust and larger intake and exhaust ports." It was the largest hp engine in any production car in 1954.

Hey dennis, After you old me about the '54 Chrysler from the Raleigh auction I tried to get the sold price but they don't publish their results! If Steve at Globe doesn't know if he has the 2 bars,(because his inventory is huge), I can snoop around for you.

Hey James, Over the years I was very content restoring and driving Plymouths: my P10 wagon, P9 Coupe, P22 Concord wagon, P28 Suburban, and then in June 2021, a Bay Area friend calls me and says that an old buddy of his has "an old Hemi wagon" that he needs to sell due to a move. I rented a Uhaul and drove 4 hours up to Arnold with very little info, only knowing that it had sat in the woods since 1981. Turns out it is an unmolested 1954 Chrysler T&C wagon with the 195 hp 331 cu in hemi and 74,000 original miles. I couldn't get the motor to rotate, but the rest of the wagon was in remarkable shape- virtually no rust, some deteriorated wood slats, but nothing that I couldn't fix. We agree on $800, with the caveat that if I could get the motor to turn over, I would send him an additional $200. (which I did.) Once I got it home, I really started to dig the styling, quality etc, and now my plan is for it to be my next resto (after the '52 Suburban I'm currently working on). THEN, a running and driving "54 Chrysler withe the 235hp hemi came up on Marketplace in a nearby town for a mere $1,800 (it's only money) which I snatched up, as it was the unloved, 4dr Deluxe, which meant it had the upgraded 235 hp hemi. (It's a sickness, I know!) My point in this rambling is you never know what's going to tickle your fancy and you should go for it, although living in the City, I would guess that you probably don't have alot of extra storage space. If you take the plunge, regarding parts, I found a local vintage auto parts guy- Steve Rotholz -Globe Auto Parts. He is located in Selma CA. He loves NOS and stock parts and probably has 6,000 items at his warehouse. His phone is (559) 352-1407. Leave a message if you call. His eBay name is forthebeachonly. Globe Auto Parts I was able to find quite a few Chrysler SS trim pieces, and a '54 steering wheel with almost no cracks for $50. Good luck and keep us posted.

Money saving strategy, no doubt, thanks!

In the 2020 "Old Cars Collector Car Price Guide" a '51-52 Chrysler New Yorker 2dr HT lists for $18,200 in #2 Condition and $26,000 in #1 condition. Granted some prices have increased a bit since 2020, but their asking price is almost DOUBLE what the car has historically sold for. As I tell my kids and grandkids - "everything is negotiable". Good luck!

I always enjoy it when our rides get media attention. The hood lip had what looked like embossed letters. I have a '51 and '52 Suburban (both in need of restoration) and the hood letters are plastic, physical letters. Was that a difference between models or years?

Also this one: Raleigh Classic There's a nice P10 vert, but I'm watching the yellow and green '54 Chrysler T&C, (mine's below in blue and gray) Same as mine only unrestored, drivable and in great shape! I'm guessing it will go for $30k.

Sweet! What's the hp?

Silence is golden!

You can see the knob layout in the b&w pic. The heat controls were an add-on that I installed, and were considered "available a a low extra cost", otherwise if your car came equipped with a heater, you adjusted the heat through louvers and knobs on the unit itself, which was usually suspended under the dash.

Mine is L-R Headlights, Throttle, then Choke.

News to me as the popular mod are K&Ns. What would you use?

Wow, I never thought that the Crosleys might be the culprit! I will check out the vacuum issue, thanks!

Yes, they are synced with the same air flow using a gauge.

Engine has 5,000 miles since install. Probably 10-12K miles before that. How does changing the gap change performance?

Pulled the plugs and they all looked the same- like this The gaps were around .028" so I re-gapped them at .035" according to the manual. What can you plug-experts tell from the look of the plug? They are Autolite 306s.