johnsartain

Nothing like a hot glob of molten steel between the toes. ( I have that experience, "Just a quick weld to make this bracket, no need to change clothes and shoes"), right...

I never thought about Arvin making Automotive heaters. After my parents retirement we moved to North Mississippi. My mother worked for and Arvin plant in Verona, MS for several years. My father had a business mowing yards and took a contract to mow the plant grounds. He also took a part time job as a Security Guard for the plant. Like a lot of manufacturers the succumbed to NAFTA. They tried for a while to manufacture off shore but ended up in bankruptcy falling victim to Chinese imported heaters.

Back in those days the birthday suit was wash and wear. Today it is old and wrinkled and needs an iron put to it. Be careful where you wear it, The iron may be a 9 iron or a shooting iron.

I had one of each but have bought new. The new ones are adjustable either way for straight/parallel with the arm, or whatever angle is desired.

Thanks Merle, I got a new set of wiper arms and blades and was curious since these can be adjusted to change the angle of the blades. They currently point to the outside.

After searching diligently I decided to post a new topic inquiring where the home or parked position of a Vacuum wiper system is supposed to be for a 1950 B2B pickup. Is it with the wipers next to the center molding of the windshield, or laying down toward the bottom of the windshield. I have seen pictures both ways and was just looking for an authoritative and correct answer to the question.

That's what I did, 98 Cherokee master Cylinder, and proportioning valve. Since you have the original master cylinder you can use it to make a pattern for the adapter plate to go from the 3 hole master cylinder to a 2 hole. I used 2 1-1/4 X 5/16-18 studs and a 3/8 inch plate, loctite-ing the studs in the plate. The plate can be bolted to the bell housing with the original master cylinder bolts. Use the original dust boot from the single master cylinder. I found that I really don't need a vacuum assisted power brake with this setup and the 2 chamber Master cylinder is much safer than the single.

Actually it's not that bad a job replacing cam bearings once you get the motor out of the truck. You don't even have to disassemble the valve train either. Plastic or wood can be cut for each valve to hold them open while the camshaft is removed. Cut them in a U shape with a slight ramp on the from end so that they will lift the valve as they are tapped in place with the valve opened fully. The bearings can then be removed with the proper tool. The flat head presents a small problem that a overhead valve train does not. With overhead valves, the push rods can be removed which allows the lifters to be suspended or removed so they don't interfere with cam removal. I used a Teflon cutting board to make my tools for lifting the valves. It was easy to cut and plane to thickness. There wasn't anything wrong with my cam bearings. I was having a problem with lost oil pressure at my middle connecting rods. It was suggested to me to turn the 2 center cam bearing to where the smaller hole aligns with the gallery opening. The smaller opening was said to provide ample lubrication to the cam while increasing the oil available at the crankshaft.

Yeah, I had one I put on a 1972 Impala 2 door. I was fresh out of High School, 1st car, and thought it looked pretty cool. The car had a factory 400 SBC, and a Rochester 4bbl and manifold I put on it. for whatever reason the factory sent it out stock with a 2bbl. Go figure!

maybe this?

JB Neal makes a good point. I might add that it may be possible that the oil return slots from the valve gallery may be plugged or not flowing well. I wouldn't be a problem to remove the valve covers and make sure they are cleaned out. I can't remember just what size those returns are off hand. Oil must pool somewhat to lube the upper part of the tappets but not much above their oil holes though. The bottom of the return holes help to maintain that level but if they have residue built up it could cause oil to overflow out of the road draft tube. As far as building the engine, there are plenty of parts available. Short of shipping costs, most all will likely ship overseas to the UK but may want to verify funds before shipping. Vintage Power Wagons has new and NOS, Bernbaums (oldmoparts.com), and Roberts Motor Parts have pistons, rings and bearings. Egge makes them to order. RockAuto.com has many of these parts as well.

I wonder how gas welding or brazing it with brass might do?

Ice cream scoop, car parts... We have a guy that sets up and sells homemade ice cream at our county fair. He has Ice Cream machines powered by a old John Deere popper engines. Pretty neat to watch, and some good Ice Cream as well.

DCM's bump stops are fairly inexpensive, whether you buy just the rubber bumper or the whole stop. I'm a cheap skate though, I took a hole say and cut a couple of disks out of the sidewall of an old tire I had laying about the took a wood chisel and cut the slots out to go over the arm, I then silicone then together and slipped them over the arm. Original bumpers and the ones they sell are just rubber, the ones I cut have nylon reinforcement so they won't crack and fall off.

...or the rubber bumper is missing from the end of it

That little round eye is a cotter pin that goes through the floor panel, just in case you can't find it. It may be missing. With the floor covering removed look at the panel for the ends of a spread cotter pin or a hole aligned with the throttle linkage rod and replace if necessary.

Are you working with the trucks pressure gauge of an external gauge? Make Sure you have a working gauge and that the oil pressure line is not restricted.

Good Videos, Tim. Now I know what they look like.

I was digging around rock auto this evening and to my surprise I found a Carter BB carburetor, remanufactured of course, but if your core is toast, this could be your way out of a tight spot. Actually sold for a 1959 D100 pickup. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1124845&cc=1489177&jsn=641&jsn=641

I will have a look at those for sure, That may be just what I need, Thanks!

Only pull-a-part, no one else allows people on their yards for insurance reasons. May be others that I haven't tried yet. Our pull-a-part is pretty stripped, all I have found is cables with barrel ends thus far. Lots of lever actuated with a clevis on the end. I may have a parts house that can get me one made to order though. It will be tomorrow before I will know for sure provided the right parts man is there.

I may have to give up and go that route, I think I have found a cable that may work. At rock auto, RAYBESTOS BC93492 102" over all length, 59" conduit, fits a 75-77 Dodge B100 van.

I got to looking at the handle set-up, it looks to use a 1/4 inch or so ball rather than a slug or barrel. It just needs to be long enough to go back under the cab a bit where I can faster it to a bracket. I an afraid to use the one on the flywheel dust cover because I think its routing will need to keep some distance from the drive shaft.

This is where my problem is. When I acquired the truck, someone had already scavenged the cable and housing, it was missing. Any chance of photos of the end where it attaches to the handle and its housing. I may have to fabricate if I can find something close enough.

Oh cr@p, you mean I straightened mine out for nothing??? …...Just Joking