rb1949

But as questioned, what are the reflective qualities of a painted one? If only faded, buffing/polishing seems productive.

PT, the pix are my rear lens project before and after. No problem, P-D members are great at coming up with ideas, and yours may be a benefit to someone.With close examination one can tell that the crazing cracks are not felt on the outside nor the inside, and form inside the plastic. Age, sun, weather, heat of the bulb. The paint was watery thin but did not creep into the cracks. Mentioned above, it does glow good in the dark but still has crazing. Yet a big daytime improvement in the looks of the lens. Plymouthy, awaiting comments/pix of your test. A reflector might look OK to 'hide' crazing since it has no back illumination. But raises a question. What are the reflective properties of the paint? Maybe it would have none? Shine a light on a normal then painted one to see. Paint the backside Silver? This is getting interesting.

Yes Plymouthy you were mentioned in the above reply, posted just for you. This was the brush on bottle 4630. ($3.19) Very thin, but didn't flow into any 'cracks', so didn't solve the problem. Just went out in the dark to check, it glows pretty good, crazing visible. So the biggest benefit is a better looking lens in the daytime.

lwebb, other crazed 49er's may be interested if you still have the mold. Is it an identical lens both sides? Mine are not. I'm sure they look great, but I dare not try it. Got a oix? The Epoxy method sound experimental yet and questionable. Would like to see some results. Bingster: the crazing (cracks) are in the lens, but not felt on the surface. That's why I question how an Epoxy can fill/hide them. And for Plymouthy, show and tell, using the Testors Transparent Red (4630). Looks nice parked, but the crazing is still there, quite visible when illuminated. Improved looks, but didn't solve the problem. Where's the pix? Didn't mean to put links. EDIT: just removed the links to pix. Tod fixed the problem and posted the pictures below. Thanks.

Darn, always a kink in the project. But read the Q&A on the site. One says do not use THIS product on aquariums.

Experiments welcome. YOU try it! (always test on scrap pieces first). Description says: The bond is achieved by first softening the surfaces to be joined and then fusing them together with the dissipation of the solvent.

Yes, ample info on molding techniques. Don't think I would be successful at that. And places that will do it, no prices mentioned. Also spotted the epoxy trick which sounded interesting. No we're not looking for that perfect restoration, just make it look better. Will look for an old broken crazed lens for a test first.

Have the familiar problem with old tail light lenses ......... the "crazing" (crack marks) in the plastic lens, usually visible as those white lines You can't feel any crack on the outside nor the inside.The crazing seems to be inside the plastic. Searching finds multiple ways to correct faded lenses, but none address any procedures regarding the crazing issue.Has anyone ever come up with a way to remove, or hide, these white cracks? The lenses are in good shape, just cosmetically nasty looking. There is a web site touting a successful 'fix' for crazing, but the email or phone contact don't work. Tossing this out to the been there - done that forum members.

The bubble trick was here in Indiana. Thank God only once. Brrrr.

I would say MT is a bit more than 'cool'. Good advice making sure everything is up to par, before it gets cold. Hope my preparations for winter garage parking are suitable. Fuel treatment, Keep battery charged and the occasional start-up, move it up and down the drive. Feb-Mar is the worst sub-arctic period. The neatest trick I ever did, one night it was -65° .......... went outside to blow bubbles. They instantly froze to fragile glass like globes. Try it sometime, but it has to be COLD.

Good post to update. Thanks guys for defending our freedom, and the sorrow to those who gave all. Young people today should be jumping on the opportunity to enlist. And yes I do partake, offering thanks to the multitude of participating restaurants that offer military personnel a free meal on this great day.

Fabricating is oft the need for parts. Keep up the good ideas for plan B, C, D, or E. You can computer snoop for anything. Soory about shipping charges. Those are some mighty clean parts too.

Looks to nice to be tearing apart. I'd be driving.

True, refills are obsolete. Blade assembly was found everywhere. I couldn't find blades with thin enough metal to slide in the old slots. So will keep your tip in mind for possible future needs.

The displays will become an expense somewhere else.

It's usually better to send private info to a person via the PM message link on their profile.

No, don't butcher it up into some kind of camper. It has a need to stay as is and be used as such.

First visit to one of my Doc's new office for a 5 minute procedure with a camera. No more gowns, you get a sheet of tissue to cover up with.

Bite the bullet and start re-tracing wires. Especially any tranny harness. Not familiar, my M6 Prestomatic Fluid Drive is different. The early models (M-4) operate on engine vacuum (“vacamatic”), while the later models (M-5 and M-6) operate on a combination of electric circuitry and hydraulics. The Vacamatic name was probably used only for marketing purposes, to associate it with the vacuum-operated semi-automatic used on the 6-cylinder cars. The solenoid on the overdrive unit is used only for the full-throttle "kickdown" function of the overdrive. A switch on the carburetor closes at full throttle and energizes the kickdown relay. A contact in the relay then closes to energize the solenoid at its "SW" terminal. A contact in the solenoid then closes, grounding the "IGN" terminal and briefly shorting the distributor ignition points to relieve the driveline torque and allow the overdrive to downshift to direct drive. If you have access to the Shop Manual, the circuitry is shown in Fig. 53 of the Transmission chapter.

Is tool #4 or #10 for chrome trim removal?

If panel board material is the only need, which you intend to recover, check local upholstery shops, probably at a fair price. Nice if the old ones were OK for the pattern.

My 4 speed fluid drive has a metal tag on it indicating use 10W oil only. Easy drain/fill plugs via the access plate. 3 pints. Could only find a gallon at Tractor Supply. Same goes in the coupling, but I'm not going to drain/change that.

Is this the size you need? Ready to test your skills? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1948-Chrysler-Hubcap-Skins-11-/181719385413

Correct wiper arm for the spline? Not switched. Not stripped. If it goes on far enough you would feel it engage the spline. Looks like it has the nut on the arm that tightens it to the shaft. Some things just annoy us.

This page lists the Engine to Oil Gauge hose.......... http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-engine.aspx