classiccarjack

What does this transmission look like from the other side? It sure resembles a OD that I got out of a 1958 Dodge 1/2 Ton Truck....

Thank you Desoto1939

Thank you Casper50.

The correct verbiage is "Voltage Limiter". It's a great idea, this guage will not survive a direct 12 VDC. Most Mopars utilized Voltage Limiter's well into the 1970's. These are small, and you can easily mount it on the back of your gauge cluster. You can make quick easy brackets using a "P" clamp. I prefer the ones wrapped in rubber....

You might be onto a fun little business venture... Hmmmm I like this Idea.

You have my attention! I know where to find the 12 VDC & the decorated cover that slides over 12 VDC batteries to fake the funk so to speak. But I never have seen a 6 VDC version. I would like to know if this product exists.

Wow that cap is really nice looking! And has a coolness factor about it that grabs me.

Walt, you had a really awesome car! The only year with a lot of one offs. I wish that I could have had the opportunity to ride with you for just one pass in that car. I used to be a part of a pit crew for a 1964 Aluminum fendered Max Wedge Plymouth. And I also volunteered to pit crew for one race with a real deal 1968 Barracuda "BO" VIN code. The name of that car was the Mean Fish. Man I love those old factory built race cars! Too cool!

You are correct sir! It's not cheap, but I did it for my customer that had a beef with older technologies and wanted to move into something modern that looked original. Other people saw it and asked me to do it for them also. Personally, I have NEVER converted to electronic ignition on my cars, never will, unless I build a vehicle for 1/4 mile runs(now 1/8 mile here)... And that will be a MSD utilizing a Mopar Electronic Distributor(my last drag car ran 10 second quarters). I like Generators and breaker type voltage regulators as well. Perhaps I am a glutton for punishment, but I have not had many if any issues on the road that I can recall in my last 34 years of driving. But I have had electronic ignition systems fail, and alternators fail. My point here is that everything boils down to personal preference. If someone hires me to do a job, I do what I am paid to do, make them happy. Some people like different things, and I don't judge them for it, I also don't mind sharing what I learned, and products that I have used to meet a goal/repair. If anything, these sort of things help people realize what is out there on the market. Then it's up to them to decide if it meets their personal preference. Did you call Vintage Air Paul?

Thanks Frank, I am a Kansan that imported to California. I met the love of my life here, and decided to stay.... Perhaps I am too blunt and now suffering from becoming thin skinned. LOL

I just bought a lot of parts for my 1938 because of this( I met a guy at the Spring Fling). If old cars are going to the Chryslers at Carlisle, then I will make arrangements to attend next year.

That is so true, even worse, those areas were not painted and rust out easily.... I have one car with this affliction. I just found out that there is a primer designed to be welded on. After I buy some more metal shaping tools, I will give it a repair regimen... Sorry Paul for getting off topic here.

Does the Acme Transmission have a good history as being reliable? I am only asking because my wife is terrified of double clutching. I picked up the A410 to help. But if I can find a transmission like yours to put into my 1.5 Ton, I will look for one. I cannot find a 5 speed from that era with the OD 5th anywhere. I bought a transmission combo up in Murphy's, I will be traveling up there to pick it up this summer. When I do, I would like to show it to you and 48Dodger to help me ID it. Would you be up for this? It's out of a 1935 Dodge logging truck I believe.

But then, we actually got some rain this year! I have realized that I have some leaking windshields to address. And some leaking wiper arm gaskets on my 1960's cars... Ugg

I live on a dirt road, it's how I get them washed! LOL

I drive to Phoenix regularly, and I drive back and forth to Kansas every summer. I have sensitivity to mold do to a hereditary condition I inherited that causes me to get pneumonia easily, and tend to avoid AC being installed into my own personal cars because of this. I have been hired by others to do this sort of thing and just wanted to pass along my ideas and experiences to help you look into options that you may not have heard of Paul. But it seems like my helpfulness isn't taken well on this topic. Sorry for wasting your time, I won't bother you on this topic any further.

Certainly a good point, but I threw it out there for the people that like the look of a generator over a GM alternator. And desire air conditioning and have to upgrade to 12 volts. It's not my personal preference.... Just trying to be helpful. My car's AC comes on when I roll my windows down. LOL

Yes they are Andydodge! Rust is truly the best loctite on this planet! It'll make you bleed sometimes.... Hang in there Cudan, you will eventually win the war.

I have installed Vintage Air kits and helped perfect designs with Classic Auto Air in Muscle Cars when I owned my restoration business. Vintage offers brackets to accommodate a kit they haven't designed for any particular vehicle. With these generic brackets, you can shape them and weld to them in order to fabricate what you need in order to make a Sanden compressor fit your application. I just fit a Vintage Air Kit to a 1955 Studebaker Truck. They also provided me with a bracket kit to install a 12V GM alternator on the 224 V8 engine. It all fit nicely. Although Vintage doesn't give options for a 6V system, you can send your generator out to "Genernator" and get it converted to 12V, look completely stock, and it does work very well. Don not only built one for the 1949 Power Wagon I restored, he personally came out to my business and visited me afterwards. What a great guy!

When I built my driveway, I put a 1 inch slope over 20 feet. If nudged, my modern cars will roll. My heavier older vehicles do not. I had a Mustang 2 fall on me when I was 21 years of age. The jack stand (3 legged) slipped, and the car then moved over, and caused my floor jack to slide out from under the car. My head was pinned between the frame and the floor. I was able to blindly get the floor jack back under the car to get free. I have not used a 3 legged jack stand since that day. Unfortunately, that was all that they had at the hobby shop on base in Germany. I swear that if I had the engine in the car, I would have suffered major head trauma or died. Even being careful, the worst may still happen.... But then, why would a company make a 3 legged Jack Stand? Not a kind Company for sure!

Is that Transmission fully synchronized? To be honest, I am not familiar with the Transmission you have. I want to learn more about it. I was told that the A410 I have is only synchronized in 3rd and 4th gears. I will have to double clutch for 1st and 2nd gears. I have not removed the top cover to verify this. the A410 is not like the two Power Wagon Transmissions that I have built. So it has me very excited to dig into it, study it, measure and learn. BTW, those are some nice muscle cars that you own.

Rare parts have been hit and miss for myself. But sometimes, they are the "only" company available with the part you need.

I found a 1975 case, it's cast iron and tough to find in the world of A833 OD's.... I am also planning on building this transmission using a earlier side cover/reverse arrangement. I have had issues with the "Scissor" design binding up and sticking into a gear and not shifting back out into neutral. The set up will have to be cannibalized from a Pre-1971 A833.

Ahhh, what a excellent way to repurpose one of those.

Thank you 55 Fargo Spitfire. A833's not only Brewers but I also use Jamie for parts at Passon Performance. I build several A833's every year. I should have been more specific regarding the A420, that was what I meant. I will definitely look up Novak's when I finally get a moment to myself around here... LOL