classiccarjack

I am buying mine from Tim/George Also. I will be sending money soon.

Wow! You got lucky! I wonder if our high temperature's out here have anything to do with these steering boxes losing their seal and leaking out the lubricant...

Rockwood, I am not insulted. SoCal has to be one of the worst places to live if you weren't born as a complete jackass. Alot of people here are very rude, inconsiderate, and suffer from Narcism. My kindness has been taken advantage of more than once here. And I can keep rambling on, but I will put a cork in it.... Don't get me wrong, there are some good folks that I found out here, and they feel the same way I do. My friends, acquaintances, and other people that I have met north of the Grapevine have all been solid people. This is why I drove from next to the Mexican Border, where I reside, up to Tim's BBQ close to Lodi. I am originally a farm kid from Kansas, that grew up and wanted to seek adventure. I served this wonderful country, and really learned alot when I traveled the globe. I chose to live here due to health reasons. And that is why I will stay here.... Enough BS... Let's talk Transmissions!

Your truck looks FANTASTIC! Was it originally an orange truck? And I really like the multiple Carburetor arrangement. I often have desired a Fargo Tailgate for my Canadian built 1937 Dodge Truck. Just to make the Fuuurd and Chebbie guys scratch their heads and wonder what it is. LOL

This Corn Head Grease liquefies into gear oil while in use, then returns back into grease while at rest. Super awesome product!

On the really old stuff that seals can no longer be found, I have packed the boxes with Corn Head Grease from John Deere with excellent success. Even after 15 years of driving, the first vehicle I did this to is still steering well.

Thankfully I have my original 201, all complete from the balancer to the parking brake drum. So I won't have to suffer from a miss matched flywheel on my PT57 Engine/trans combination.

Yay! I bet you are sleeping good tonight! What a relief.

Hey Rockwood, can you post a picture of your truck? I would love to see it. And 65 MPH is just enough to keep you from getting killed on California freeways. The 1949 Power Wagon I restored did 55 MPH. SCARY ON FREEWAYS! I was glaring into the rear view mirrors and utterly terrified of getting whiplash! These pricks would swerve, almost hit me, then blast their horns at me. I never drove that truck again. This bad rude behavior ruined it for me. But... Other than being a giant brick that sucked any plausible possibility of achieving any sort of decent gas mileage, my 1959 was in it's happy place between 80-90 MPH. However, It was V8 powered by a 1972 360. My gears were 3.55 Ratio. The engine loved 4000 RPM's with the camshaft I had in it. I did have new king pins in it, and really expensive high speed rated Radial Tires on it. My 1950 would go over 60 MPH only if I were to drive it off of a cliff to allow gravity to pull it to terminal velocity. At 55, with bias ply tires, I was terrified and had all my nerves jumping to drive it that fast. I was a teenager then, and not experienced. Because of my fear, I took a lot of dirt roads! LOL. It felt the best at 45-50 MPH. Every vehicle has it's comfort zone. And I really pray that my 1938 will feel safe at 65-70 MPH. If it does, I really would like to make it my daily driver due to the small fortune that I am investing into it. If I can get 4-5 years out of it before major repairs are needed, then my dream will have come true. Then I can pass it along to one of my kids to repair/restore/drive.... Well maybe... And yes, I plan on using a A833OD in it with a 230. The original drivetrain is going to be rebuilt, installed, broken in, driven a few thousand miles, then removed and crated. This way I can always put it back to an all original numbers matching truck when I retire, that is if one of the kids doesn't inherit it first.....

With the .72 to 1 OD, my personal best results are using the 3.73 ratio with this transmission. I have a factory built 1975 Duster with this OD. And I put this transmission in a earlier car(my hot rod) and came up with these results: 3.55 was OK, but seemed to lug at speeds lower than 55 MPH. 3.91 was OK, but seemed to rev higher than I liked at 75 MPH. I will be installing this transmission in my 1938 Plymouth someday. Once I do this, I will see if the 3.73 is the "sweet spot" gear with this pick up truck. If not, I will find this topic and comment. I have to disengage, filing 2016 taxes! I would much rather surf this forum than do what I should do.... I will try to get back with you soon. If I get the time, I can share some photos from my barn for educational purposes later. My wife is currently busting my balls regarding filing my taxes! LOL Thank you Rockwood.

The pictures I saw didn't look all that bad. Better than what I have...

Don't hate me for this.... 3rd is OD on A833OD Transmission's. They flipped the lever on the side cover to allow for a conventional "H" shift pattern. This makes 4th become third after the lever is flipped. I build/have built A833's and A833OD Transmissions for about 20+ years now. I love them! I just wanted to throw in some technical information. Some folks call this transmission a three speed. Others wouldn't know what it was if they saw one, especially the 1975 which had a cast iron case. If you would like me to post some pics of these beautiful masterpieces designed from the early 1960's, and ran until the early 1980's, I have a few that I can photograph and throw up for you to see. I am trying to be helpful Rockwood. There is absolutely no malice intended. I hope that you take my interruption kindly. I only thought if this because a lot of people are not very knowledgeable of A833's. Unless it's a muscle car person.

You sir! Are one sharp cookie! Great advice, why didn't I think of that to pass along? I actually did this same thing when I first moved to the places that I lived.... The problem here in SD, is that the best guy died from Cancer. His son picked up the torch for a couple of years and wasn't really taking in much new work, then after he got caught up with the stacks of engines that needed to be finished, closed the doors. As a kind jester to my loyalty and many jobs that I provided from my restoration business, he machined a engine for me for free and bought all the parts. What a guy! This family business ran strong for over 40 years! His only competition stopped with the early stuff about a decade ago and now focuses on engines 1960 and later. Not to mention the Imported stuff.... Bummer. But this is why I am flustered. There is one guy in Escondido boring a 230 for a fellow HAMB'er. I will meet up with the guy and measure the bores after completion. I like to see two ten thousandths or less variance between out of round and taper throughout the bore to be happy. I know that my standards are high, but I am a perfectionist to a fault.

I am having similar issues here in San Diego. Due to my frustrations, I purchased a Boring Bar. I am purchasing a second Boring Bar so I can machine small bores(like 201's). I found a Black and Decker Valve Grinder machine. I have a hone from when I machined Harley Davidson Engines(I built engines when I was Employed at a Dealership), thankfully I kept it and never sold it. When I was in my 20's I spent a few years machining and building engines and was trained by some of the best. I also got rid of my central Micrometers and purchased some more expensive/accurate micrometers. I also purchased a high quality Dial Bore Gauge. I have the big boring bar disassembled so that I can get the base machined to be absolutely true. My hopes of being ready to start machining, well, with any luck, may become a reality within a couple of years. I will machine my engines first to be sure that no mistakes are made. After that, I will start doing my extra engines and put them up for sale. Perhaps, if this turns out to be successful, I may decide to offer long block services to others. But that is if I have the time and feel like it. Machining is a dying art because it is so hard to find the very few people willing to pay for good work. This is why a lot of my friends that owned machine shops shut down and retired.... The millennials aren't finding interest in the stuff we love. Perhaps the last few of us will be able to pass it along to younger people, but only time will tell. My Mentor passed away a couple of years ago at 97 years in age. He adopted me and taught me more about cars than any school ever could. I will always miss him and love him for being the best parent that I never had. Passing his teachings and knowledge down is my mission in life. If guys like us don't do it, this hobby of hours will surely die out. Enough rambling! Sorry for boring you... No pun intended... But I hope that the machine shop you choose will have a torque plate and will do a stand up job.

Thank you Don, good to know! Is it because of the extra mass associated with the Fluid Drive(Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and the Converter all as one large mass)?

You are making me want to get started on my Plymouth Truck! But I promised to do my 1937 Dodge First! LOL If I only remembered to ask Tim about the radiator cap on top of his fridge in his garage.... I often wonder if that may have originally came from my truck. It was a farm truck from Lodi.

Very nice and clean install.

I hope that your solution is correcting a simple mistake like this. Please let us know your findings.

Lloyd is right about cleaning up the bolts and bolt holes, and taping the holes in the block.... If you feel binding or hear sounds while torquing your head bolts, be sure to stop, remove the head bolts, and clean out and tap the holes in the block again. Improper torque equals leaks and head gasket failure. Definitely not something to be rushed. I am sure that you already know this, but I just wanted to help prevent you from having any issues. I had an employee once that learned this the hard way.

I actually put my hands on those! They looked Awesome! I am definitely going to buy a set also. Thank you Reg for allowing us to come out to visit. BTW, the Empire Mine was amazing! Thank you for the tip.

Glad you got to actually drive it. Just keep going along. I hope that your rust isn't really bad. I guess we will have to wait to see your pictures.

I have had unexplained things happen due to a bad ground. Once I installed a switch and somehow pinched a wire which has caused a similar result. Does it work fine if you unmount and pull the switch up out of place? I hope that your switch isn't defective....

The late flatheads all use the 8 bolt flange. The 4 bolts and 8 bolts will interchange flywheels. I have had to do this both ways to make Transmission combo's work. I often wondered if the 8 bolt was offered do to increased power output on the later engines. The last good example for me, is I swapped a late 230 into a 1949 Power Wagon. The Power Wagon had a 4 bolt flywheel with a 218 in it. I had to reuse the 4 bolt flywheel, and the holes lined up and everything worked out great. It has been 5 years now and the truck is still going strong. For what it is worth, I didn't make this choice, my customer didn't want to buy a 8 bolt flywheel at that time.... But in his defense, it worked! LOL