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Rock Auto shows a rear mount for 1948 Dodge. I would think it is the same for Plymouth, but I can not confirm that. $3.52 each

nla

Not pandering for Ace, but if anyone is thinking of building their own, they have a 1 gallon sprayer on sale this weekend that could be converted to pressure bleed brakes. $3.99 + tax with your Ace Rewards card. Clean after use, and reusable, or at that price, pretty much disposable.

773 vs 5019 different size per NAPA website i i Heat shield part #1142990 . Cars, maybe trucks as well. Not readily available.

Local shop relined my shoes. Did me a "favor" with oversize linings. Made 2 trips back to have them sanded down so that they would fit in the drums. Took my drums each time. They were sanded to match the drums.

nla

Did you get the 2 rear motor mount bolts that extend up through the cross member, and the squishy donuts? EDIT: and unless the DeSoto with M6 is different, you need to support the transmission. Please ignore if you already did that Just tossing that out there.

When you get a pump, compare the backing plates. Swap if different. (# of holes. internal/external bypass) (type of housing. bump/no bump) And that all hinges upon whether or not the correct one is presently installed.

Does the car track down the road straight with the wheel centered? If not someone may have replaced tie rods and such, and done an alignment without the steering wheel centered. That would cause the the normal wheel centered//high spot///bit of resistance area to be slightly away from the center position, and as Tod said, adjusting the screw on the steering box would only make that worse.

As Plymouthy says. Run the settings back to their lowest. Start over from there. The homemade PVC tool is a help in centering the shoes, but is not much value when it comes to clearances.

Was at Tractor Supply today to get some fluid for the snowplow. They had non-detergent 10W, 20W, 30W, and 40W on the shelf in 2 gallon containers. 30W in qts.

205/75-15 on the front on original rims. D-24

On the relay in this pic, all the terminals are identified on the two mounting tabs. (written very small) Don't know what your relay looks like, but "G" goes to ground which is generally the wire going to the horn button which provides the ground and energizes the relay. Power from the battery is at the terminal labeled battery waiting to continue on to the horns when the relay is energized. Power to the terminal marked ignition allows for the horn to work only when the ignition is on. It could be wired directly from the battery if you want the horn to work with the ignition off. (caution there is to not connect any other wires to that terminal that you do not want to have power with the ignition off) Last one is to the horn(s). EDIT: spelling EDIT 2: this is a 4104. The mounting tabs on other models may be labeled differently. Wire accordingly.

Don't think you are doing anything wrong. The keepers are just tight into the retainer, and have to be coaxed out. Edit: generally a little tap on the top of the valve does it.

When removing the inside handle, as someone posted, push in to depress the spring and you will see the pin. Depending upon how strong the springs are, how reluctant the pins are to be removed, and how coordinated you are, it is sometimes better done with 3 hands. Pushing the spring, escutcheon back will expose the pin. Sometimes the pins are easy, sometimes they are tough. As I have redone my door panels, mine just slip right out . Actually during this photo session mine fell out onto the floor when I depressed the spring and wiggled the handle. The extra hand comes in if you need to use a pick, or a nail to coax the pin out. Be careful if doing the pin by yourself. If the escutcheon is released during removal or installation with spring pressure behind it, without the pin being centered, it is possible to bend the escutcheon. Been there done that. EDIT: can't get the pics in the order that I wanted them.

Have not had occasion to purchase the NAPA one as I have a NORS coil on the shelf in the garage. You would have to look at the package to be sure it suits your needs

If you want a spare make it easy on yourself. NAPA MPE IC7SB 6 volt coil Shows $16.49 at my local NAPA

OK, probably just me then. Not proficient at tossing cookies anymore since windows 7.

that link does not work for me. just takes me to the search page with this message: "One or all of your search keywords were below 3 characters or you searched for words which are not allowed, such as 'html', 'img', etc, please increase the length of these search keywords or choose different keywords."

Odd. From the NAPA website. Search GL-1 Gear Oil, GL-1 90 Gear Oil; 80w90; 1 GAL Part Number: NHF 65201 Sitting in the window at NAPA here. Any NAPA should be able to get it. EDIT: on the shelf in East Greenbush, Central ave in Albany, TJ's on Grove street in Vorheesville, Scotia, Clifton Park, Troy, Latham, and 2600 Guilderland in Schenectady. Maybe you need a new NAPA store.

Lets put this in reverse, so to speak, for a moment Back, back, back somewhere you mentioned that some lube leaked out the hole in the front (normal occurrence) of the transmission prior to you taking for repair. Do you remember how thick the lube was. Did it smell like gear lube. You will not hurt anything by getting some GL-1 from NAPA and giving that a try.

Note 5 was cut off a bit in the other post. Still makes confusing, but I believe this cable will work. Adjusters are available to shorten the cable if needed. You can easily fabricate a new transmission end if the cable needs to be a bit longer, or is a bit different. There shouldn't be more than an inch or so difference either way. The handle end will be the same on all. ebay 111048522112

Sounds like you are staying in 2nd/3rd. Not getting the 1st/reverse trip over in the linkage/transmission. Were it mine, with the engine shut off, I would unpin the linkage at the transmission, manually move the gearshift selector lever, and the gearshift operating lever to attempt to locate reverse. That would allow you to determine if it is a linkage problem, or a problem in the transmission where the levers are located.

Hard to tell. No pic or information showing here

I'm going to muddy the water a bit here with a couple of pics Personally, I would snag the one for $30. Modify it if needed. EDIT: not mine, not associated with the seller.