_shel_ny

1 in the car, one in the shed. Looks like you are good to go.

As I understand detergent oil... it suspends the dirt, or whatever in the oil whereupon the filter captures it for disposal. non-detergent...... stuff pretty much just settles to the bottom. As there is no filter in the transmission it would be my preference not to suspend anything that I do not need to in the lube. Being a sealed unit it is not the same as the engine where more dirty stuff is drawn in. (past the rings, valve guides????) Just my opinion, and as such worth very little, but I would go with non-detergent.

moderator please delete. dup. instructions and please move this thread to "OT" pinned instructions at the start of this forum would help "OT". "classifides", "ebay, "craigs list" start out where they should be

... --- ...

Order online, pick up at store. There is often a discount code to use online. EDIT: and to add to that, you can also order online when the items are in stock in the store, get the discount, and go pick them up.

or http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_head-gasket-set-felpro_19782224-p?searchTerm=gasket

Dodge manual through 1948 called for gear lube. 1949-52 SAE 10-W. So did the transmissions change, or did MoPar thinking change? I think it has been posted here in the past that maybe the 10-W oil may let the transmission sort of free wheel too much causing a possibility of 1st/reverse grinding. I suppose you could pick one, try it, then change if necessary to the other.

What does your manual say? Seems you posted in another thread that it said 10 weight

As I understand it, #1, or # 2 fuel oil used in home heating is a less refined form of kerosene, and would likely do the deed.

OK, thanks for the clarification

Really???? My tach/dwell meters have 2 wires. If they are not connected to the vehicle being tested, how are they going to work

my old tach/dwell meter worked ok for tach, but gave unquestionably wrong dwell readings. I bought an older one on ebay that said it would work on 6v. It does. Your call, but I would buy one that is listed for 6v.

http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/topic/23909-converting-lug-bolts-to-studs-nuts/?hl=%2Bwheel+%2Bstud#entry235114 http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Mopar_Tapered_Axle_Rear_Brake_Conversion

EDIT: please disregard any info provided on the grommet. 49-50 vehicles are apparently different than earlier versions. Getting the arm and motor in sight really makes it all come together as to how simple it is. I see Young Ed mentioned his not working well now, and possibly tight grommets. If yours looks like the pic I posted you just need to be sure that the grommet does not rub on the part of the motor that pivots, and possibly on the clip side. If it has the brass nut/swivel/insert, as long as the grommet goes around it you are good. Nut/swivel/insert does all the work. EDIT: As far as the arm goes, I believe the wiper post/pivot that goes out through the cowl has to come out as well. That is the way it is on my 48, and also on the Chrysler that I got my donor electric motor from.

There would be two hangers after the muffler. That auction for the front one would be just a bit behind the muffler. The rear one would be after the axle bend.

I realize you have difficulty accessing the underside of the dash. Perhaps if you had someone pull the wiper motor (2 bolts and a vacuum line if not elec), and one arm of the linkage it would be easier to see just how it operates. The arm with a grommet slips snugly over the brass nut/swivel/insert. That brass part that Dodgeb4ya is speaking of is secured to the arm/linkage. EDIT: please disregard any info provided on the grommet. 49-50 vehicles are apparently different than earlier versions. The ID for the grommet would be approx. .33". The OD would be approx. .45". Possibly a 3/8" grommet would do. The grommet could be split if needed. It just has the be in there snug. Then the clip goes on to keep the arm from coming off. The brass nut/swivel/insert does all the work. You could probably just use a piece of inner tube to accomplish the same end result. Possibly a piece of rubber/vinyl vacuum line split and slid over the brass. You could build a mold, and make your own grommet to do this with RTV. This is a slow speed operation area. It isn't like a wheel bearing or such. Not real critical. Moves a bit in one direction, then moves a bit in the other direction.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/42-52-Chrysler-dodge-Plymouth-front-tailpipe-hanger-/370625481891?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564b000ca3&vxp=mtr or http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-STRONG-DUTY-UNIVERSAL-EXHAUST-TAIL-PIPE-MUFFLER-360-SWIVEL-HANGER-NOS-/270924843882?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1952|Make%3ADodge&hash=item3f14610b6a&vxp=mtr or mitchell motor parts call mike or frank or if this is not a 100 point restoration project or robertsmotorparts has universal hanger for $5 (old book) +shipping you or the mechanic should be able to walk into most any auto parts store and pick out a universal tail pipe support bracket.

Those that may be able to suggest something may need a bit more to go on. A starting point. What are you seeing? Play in the wheel? Is the steering box secure to the frame? Are the spacers shot where it bolts on? Is the lube leaking out?

32 psi 205 75R 15 on original rim. front D24

And mitchells also has the other style along with millions of other MoPar items. http://www.ebay.com/itm/42-46-47-48-49-50-51-51-Dodge-1940-41-Chrysler-DeSoto-NOS-MoPar-REAR-MAIN-SEAL-/400432871362?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3ba8b7c2

Any part #'s/item #'s that you can share with the forum?

Have you tried http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-transmission.aspx http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/car_parts.asp?Action=search&t=&Search=&c=Cars+-+Gaskets&page=2

collectorsautosupply or mitchell motor parts part # 867734 dig deep collectorsauto lists at $200 or http://www.oldparts.com/Mopar/Mopar_Numerical/mopar_numerical.html says $28 list may not be up to date

Sounds like there is some cross reference errors in the parts stores (more than one store) databases. Odd that a 49-52 Dodge part such as that would be compatible with vehicles up though 1987. Bearing itself, maybe, but the whole release bearing assembly is unlikely. Fluid drive is generally listed as a different #, and therein may lie the problem. EDIT: robertsmotorparts, or Chris at oldmoparts.com would likely get you the correct one.

You can buy an engine rebuild gasket kit. It will have one. It will also have the hard to find oil pump gasket.