_shel_ny

Long trip coming up. What was the cause of the fuse failure ????

GTK had problems with the site over the weekend. There was some info and instructions under feedback and announcements, but they seem to be gone. When you get to the site, and are logged in, use that as a new bookmark, or short cut.. Delete your old one that has "pairserver" in the link.

If the horn works when you short to ground, I do not believe adjustment is required. I could be wrong. Test your ground with a test light instead of an ohm meter. EDIT: I was wrong , but testing for ground is best done with a test light as it shows that current will pass.

Sequoia tree

Had a mesh sort of like a brillo pad. Horsehair sort of stuff.

Billy may be Andy's friend.

Clipped this post from a 2007 thread: safety, and following any instructions provided is at the risk of the person doing the work. On these cars you don't need a spring compressor, and in my opinion you don't need a safety chain or cable either, although you could use one if you wanted. All you need: 2 solid jackstands, wheel chocks, a hydraulic floor jack, some socket wrenches and a lot of GoJo. I'd also suggest putting down a disposable tarp because you will knock a lot of lumpy grease and dirt loose. Jacking: Chock the rear wheels. I jack the car from the center front crossmember, using a wood block. Jack it high, and place a jackstand on each side, back near the firewall under the frame where the frame goes straight and flat. Lower the car onto the stands, give it a few shoves in different spots to make sure it's solid. Remove the front tires. Drop the sway bar first, leave the eight bolts hanging from the crossmember. Leave the sway bar attached to the control arms at the ends but unbolt the bushing retainers and let it drop down. (That removes a lot of resistance when you lower the control arm to get the old spring out.) Support the lower outer lower control arm with floor jack, out near the lower spring socket area, just barely compressing the spring. Remove the lower outer pivot pin. On mine it has a lock nut on one end. On some models it may have a castellated nut with a cotter pin. Remove that nut then just back out the long threaded pin from the other end with a large socket. Lower the jack. At the same time you can pull the upright kingpin support outward at the bottom for working room. Two rubber cups (grease seals) will come out or may stick to the upright support. Save them and note which came from the front end and which the rear of the pivot pin, they have different shapes inside the cup. As you lower the jack, the lower outer control arm will drop slowly and all tension should come off the spring. You should be able to reach in and rattle the spring around, it will be that loose. No tension. You may need to push or pry down on the lower arm a bit to get the spring out. With the arm pushed down, lift the spring up until it's at the top of its socket, then turn it and move the bottom to the rear and outward. Spring should rotate out pretty easy. That's it. Then put in the new spring, flat end upwards. If there were any rubber noise dampers up there, put them back in. Rotate the spring to fit the bottom spring end into the little spring pocket in the bottom arm. Raise the arm slowly with the jack, line up the holes in the outer control arm and the upright support. Begin to thread in the pivot pin. Once it grabs the threads, stop and put the two grease seals (those rubber cups) in place. A putty knife or dull plaster knife helps keep the grease seals in place as you line up the threaded parts. If you can't line up the threaded holes so the pin turns in easily, try not only raising/lowering your jack a little, but moving the upright kingpin support in and out. Should line up easy. Caution, don't cross thread it. You should be able to turn it in by hand with just a large deep socket. If not, back it out and wiggle the assembly and try again. Once the pin is threaded all the way through with the rubber cups in place, torque the pin. Torque value is 100 to 110 ft lbs. In shade tree that's "really tight" but not "3' foot breaker bar really freakin' tight". Then you put on your lock washer and lock nut or castellated nut. Drop the jack, do the other side, quicker now because the sway bar is already down and you know how it works now. Then when the other side is done, bolt up the sway bar with the 8 machine bolts that you left hanging in place in the crossmember. This is a good time to get out the grease gun and hit the 28 or so zirc fittings on your suspension and linkages. Tires back on, jack up the center, remove the jackstands, drop her down, step back and admire your work!

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That DeSoto would have followed me home

Standard catalog of American cars. Info repeated for 1946, 1947 EDIT; to re-size pic

Have to remember, talking California. Not sure if CARB has effect on such things. Maybe "synthetic" NY has now taken to going with some CARB/federal standards. June 1st here catalytic converter replacement standards were raised.

Twist to the same story. When I was in the AF, story was a ferghiner was in the US for flight training, and thought the cruise control was like the auto pilot on the aircraft. Story was, set the auto pilot (cruise control) on the rented van/motor home type, then got up to do something in the back. I worked on the auto pilot systems, so I'm not sure if that tale was isolated to my circle, or wide spread. Pre- wide spread personal home computer age, so spread by written word, and old war stories.

I am impressed by that dash set up. I don't believe I ever saw one like that while poking me head inside cars at the yard. Really nice. Please buy that car, and repaint the wheels

Welcome to the site. Andy is probably sleeping now "down under", but until he answers you could check out this thread on the truck side. Also some links in that thread to others. http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/topic/29276-oil-bath-to-paper-conversion/?hl=+air%20+filter%20+conversion Or this: http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/topic/24437-oil-bath-filter-conversion-udate/?hl=%2Bair+%2Bfilter+%2Bconversion Conversion to paper air filter can be done on a stock filter, and not be seen. Cut around where indicated in the photo, pull out the insides, select a filter, put the top back on. EDIT: nother one just in case it wasn't linked in the other threads. http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/topic/28065-air-cleaner-how-to-convert-from-oil-bath-to-paper/?hl=%2Bpaper+%2Bfilter#entry280455 And a quick shot to the late "Norms coupe" site for his conversion: http://www.indfloorcoating-repair.com/1948plymouthenginerestoration.html

This may give you some ideas. http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/topic/24456-rear-axle-removal/?hl=%2Baxle+%2Bremoval There may be shims. Note how many, and where. Put back same.

http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/topic/16762-how-to-guide-miller-brake-tool/

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Ebay, Mooresautosalvage, Fatfenderedrelics, collectorsautosupply, mitchellmotorparts, list here in buy/sell, classifieds, parts wanted

I understand the sham bidder thing. I agree it does happen, no doubt. The thing with particular listing is: It started at $5000 .... 1 bid.... no bid retractions.... sold. The seller can not claim "dropped sale", to any advantage. You pay to list a vehicle, no refund. No second bidder to drop back to. I suppose I can see the theory of buddy bidding, small bidding war, stop bidding, but again with this vehicle no interest was shown at $4K, or $4.5K so where would a bidding war come from at $5K, then again where did the bidder come from for $5K. Did someone just stumble on to it, not look at any P-15 past listings, and jump on it ???? 7 day auction, 7 day auction, then 3 day auction. Strange stuff. guess only the seller knows for sure.

Don't understand the previous statement, nor the statement it quoted The seller pays to list a vehicle. May have a free listing under some circumstances. As I understand it, unless things have changed, that's it. List, pay a fee. Sell, no sell, no refund. Why would his "buddy" make a $5000 bid to buy the vehicle????? An auction can be ended by the seller at any time.

When warmed up you want it to be clockwise so all the exhaust goes more or less directly through.

You could check with these folks. http://www.johnrspring.com/

The clean up of connections goes a long way toward reducing resistance, and getting the power to the lights. I did a quick test of my lights today. Annual safety inspection is on Friday. I noticed a bit of a flicker in the right headlight, and it does not look as bright as the left. Last year the first time I checked the lights after inspection the left was dim. Like when UPS went on strike. I had to run a new ground. Good for another 64 years. I will clean all the connections, and get a good ground so I will be ready to fly through the inspection.

Guy got a great deal for $1200 (basically stole it). Guy that bought it for $5000 ..............well. Seems a bit high, but with that interior all done (even if not period correct) a big chunk of change out of the way.