_shel_ny

columns: 1 for Plym/ followed by 2 for Dodge/ 2 for DeSoto/ 2 for Chry

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Not a problem to share your pics. I did not post that as a slam, but as assistance. I will refrain form being of assistance in the future. http://forums.aaca.org/f143/1927-dodge-bros-fast-four-numbers-268793.html

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Bit of explanation on the above. head removal would be from my butt. Small tractor needed:rolleyes:

Not taken as stupid or sarcastic. No doubt, prove what is right first. Having read that, I did as suggested. Everything in life should be so simple. It is running. It was proven to be 180 out (for how and why, I will never understand) as evidenced by the masking tape being blown off the #1 plug hole as the rotor headed toward 1 o'clock. My wife does not do hot, or black flies so tape was the substitute for a finger. One hand on the belt, one hand on the fan, I ran out of hands to check the compression:) Timing light showed the pointer right on the mark. Now for head removal. I saw a small tractor with a bucket loader attachment on my way back from Lowe's this AM. Should be big enough to do the job:D Thanks for the input.

At this point I will give most anything a shot:) I do understand that the oil pump gear does rotate as it indexes/engages the cam gear. The manual instructed to make the 1 tooth ccw adjustment to allow for that. What I did not do is have the distributor raised as suggested in my manual. I will try it again with the dist. raised. Again what I am not grasping is, how can it still be off if the distributor was not pulled, engine was not moved, and the inline tester spark is there with everything lined up. I see that you have suggested it, but would the dist. tang actually be able to ride on top of the oil pump gear for 180 degrees:), and if so why the spark when I think I am where I belong:eek: I guess I am just a hardheaded German. 85 in the shade at this point, and J is in the sun. this will wait as I try to absorb some facts. Eventually it will probably sink in, and you (and ptwothree) are probably correct with your assessments. thanks for the input

Pointing at about 7, although that really does not make any difference, that being just a common desired point of reference:) The 180 idea keeps crossing my mind, but as the distributor was not removed, nor was the crank/cam positioned changed while the oil pump was out, I can not wrap my head around the idea that it could be 180 out:eek:

Late 2011, ran fine, parked for the winter nap. Replaced squared o-ring under oil pump cover without pump removal. Coil wire off, plugs out. Could not get oil pressure to build up with several attempts. Probably less stress on all the bearings just cranking without oil pressure as opposed to running the engine without oil pressure, but I was not comfortable cranking it any more. Pulled pump, filled with oil, installed pump without disturbing distributor position, or at least I think it was not disturbed. Engine was not disturbed during this time. Cranked the engine, got oil pressure to build. Coil connected, plugs installed. Cranking the engine resulted in some popping through the carb. When looking at the rotor, with the pointer on the painted line on the damper, it appeared to be past the # 1 plug wire terminal. I moved the all the wires one terminal, and cranked the engine while trying different distributor positions. Results varied from carb pop to nothing. The battery was put back on the charger. The engine was turned by hand to line up the pointer to the painted timing line on the damper. The wires were returned to their previous positions. Pulled the oil pump, lined the slot up with the mounting bolt, turned it one gear tooth ccw per manual instructions, moved rotor to point in the approximate position of the #1 plug wire terminal, taped it there, and gently reinstalled the oil pump. I disconnected the vacuum line at the dist. so I would not have to fight with it. Lined the pointer up on the damper. Installed the inline spark light on the # 1 plug wire. Turned the dist full clockwise, then ccw several times watching as the light flashed when the points opened. I then went full clockwise and ccw once again, slowly, and tightened the bolt after the flash. I continue to get popping in the carb, and does not fire up. I put the battery on the charger some more, and pulled the car over onto the lawn to sit overnight. I had rolled the car out of the garage. I had no desire to burn the garage down, and thought I would get the car started. I thought it may be flooded from all the cranking, but I am still puzzled by the popping in the carb. I can give the battery a bit of help with my 12V jump pack, but I don't think that is the issue at this point. I was hoping to get one more season out of the battery, but this is putting a lot of stress on it. Suggestions? Something wrong with the approach I have described?

EDIT: The input of one, be it proven, or unproven, is all that is required. Others be silent, and comment not.

n l a

Have only recently resumed reading your posts, and that has proven for the most part, to be a mistake;) In this instance, probably just a misinterpretation on my part between the intent of the written word vs the spoken word. It also does appear that the OP was not impressed with the response that he received after posting. I will return to my corner, and reset my user CP to the proper configuration:)

Just seems that if the hand slides on, I should be able to turn it while holding the other, but does not work.

Spare clock. Not looking at spending any money on it:D Looking for free advise here in case anyone has "been there done that" with the hands:eek: It appears that dis-assembly will be needed to reposition gears. I may take another shot at pulling the minute hand before taking something apart that has an 90% (or higher) chance of not going back together. I do have a parts clock that will be the guinea pig if push come to shove.

If they are pressed on, they sure are press on good and tight. I did attempt to pull the hands manually, but do not want to damage them:)

D-24 clock. Minute hand is about 20min off from the hour hand. Need to know how to correct this. Minute hand does not seem to be removable. Holding one, moving other, does not help.

Tim, not trying to argue with you , or out debate you, as I know I am unqualified to do so:) The point of my post, and take it as boo bird if you must, was I would like to find out what is being offered for under $13 each.(and apparently at a profit to the seller, or they would not be doing it) I certainly do not expect them to compare in any way to a $450 set, or a $200 set. The seller seems to be OK, but sometimes its a "get what you pay for situation", so again my question to be answered by those making the purchase is, are you happy with the set? That being said, I am done with this thread:)

don't understand your response here Tim. I am sure that your post of these mirrors is appreciated. As far as the boo birds being dead and gone, were you not a charter member in that club............................

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Now one of you guys just needs to let us know what you think of them when you get them:) Henco n Mexico, or henco n china Not a lot of money. Lets us know if it is a suitable driver quality or just cheesy crap:p

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