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A new pump would likely have a gasket. Not sure if they come alone. You should be able to make one easily.Big hole for the arm. 2 small holes for the bolts.

You would be better served to pull the welch plugs (freeze plugs), pull the water pump and distribution tube, and flush and flush, and flush with a garden hose. There is stuff in the water jacket that will never come out with cooling system flush. Just my opinion, and worth little. One thing to try first, is to open the petcock drain on the side of the block and see if anything comes out.

On the left side you will see a round mark in the gasket that would line up with the hole in the front of the transmission where the lube leaked out when you tipped the transmission. There has been past debate here about the need to cut that hole out when making a new gasket. My theory on that is..... if there is a hole, it then has two sides of the gasket from which to leak. I did not cut the hole, and have no problem shifting. My point of bolt hole "critical" was to the point of being able to get the bolts into the holes without any gasket being in the way. You may notice here that not only did I not cut the extra hole, I also forgot to cut out one of the bolt holes. That was not noted by me until I tried to put a bolt in the hole.

D-25 wiring shown. Should be same as P-15 The horn relay terminal is just a common junction for wire connections. This diagram shows the common connection at the coil. If your Red wire is going to the horn relay, electrically it is the same hook up, just using a different common point. Both the coil, and the horn relay are at the same common point, but they have nothing to do with each other. Follow this diagram, and wire accordingly. Two different circuits. Troubleshoot independently.

I may have hit the panic button too soon on the clock fuse. Yours is 3 amp, and may be different Mine is a 2 amp fuse pretty common diameter. The length is the uncommon part - 1948. The fuse is only 5/8" long, and I could not locate one that short in my travels.

That's the way it is. Matches the contour of the transmission, but is not critical to the installation. Only thing critical is the bolt hole alignment. If you look at the bell housing you may be able to see that outline there if you have not cleaned the area already.

Clock fuse may be a challenge to find. It is not a common physical size. I ended up ordering mine online from Grainger.

EDIT: please disregard any info provided on the grommet. 49-50 vehicles are apparently different than earlier versions. For the grommets you might try this. the 1/2" package is just an example and would not be correct (just the size I had hanging in the garage) EDIT: most anything that provides the same results would work. You need something to fill the area around the wiper pivot (at the motor itself) where the linkage slips on. You need something between the linkage and the clip that keeps it on the motor pivot. A grommet would not actually have to snug in on both faces of the linkage. Could be glued, but would be held somewhat in place by the linkage, and clip anyway.

Small local shop bent a pipe from the muffler back for me using the rusty hulk as an example without the car being there. Bought my own muffler from Pep Boys. Pipe from manifold was reusable.

Front brake hoses. # 10595. from most any auto parts store. EDIT $9-12 Rock Auto. $16 NAPA $19 Advance

You can make the gasket from the download, or you can easily make a new one from the pattern of the old one, or you can make one by laying gasket material on the trans and marking the outline and holes, or you can PM me with your mailing address and I will mail you a traced pattern. trans capacity/type should be listed in your shop manual 2 3/4 pints

this thread shows a block casting date in the area of the dip stick http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/topic/13678-my-b-4b-108-is-titled-as-a-54-but-vin-says-53/#entry125466

my MoPar passenger car parts list 1954 shows the inner seal as 668479 (converts to 17145 at collectorsauto) for 1937-48 Plym/Dodge/DeSoto/Chry ($66) AutoZone cross reference says 5836 vs 17145 are the same. Auto Zone gives the specs for the 5836. Says it does not fit P-15 ($20) NAPA gives the specs for 17145 ($31) Advance Auto gives the same specs. Says it does not fit P-15 ($20) RockAuto has 1 5836. Lists for Dodge ($10) Looks like Chris at oldmoparts will sell one for $15 Will it fit ???? EDIT: same on mine with vehicle not showing:)

Hard to tell if it is a fit as neither your post, nor profile shows what you are working on

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Both caps appear to be vented. 5 seconds to check both. Easiest test is to try to draw air in with your mouth. Some plastic wrap with a hole in the center will keep residual gas off your mouth if that is a concern.

Possibly time to think about a disc brake conversion. That wheel cylinder should be basically floating on the concentric anchor bolt. The bolt is the major adjustment for the heel of the shoe. With the nut and washer off I don't know why it would be stuck, but it obviously is. You could put the nut back on backwards to protect the threads, and give it a little tap. The 3 cars that I have removed the front cylinders and bolts on came off easily. I have anchor bolts if you should run into the need.

Tomato- toe mato You want it in the closed position to allow the exhaust to flow freely.

Sorry for the mis-direction on the lube. My 51 used gear lube. EDIT: If you should need it, GL-1 was referenced, as it seems from past posting info on this site, the syncros don't hold up to GL-5

Sorry for the mis-direction on the lube. My 51 used gear lube.

robertsmotorparts kanter

Edit: castle nut with cotter pin. Pin may be hiding in grease. (AKA undercoatney)

The transmission does not need to be drained for removal. Just do not lay it on the left side, or tilt it on the front end. Gear lube will leak out the hole front left. If you do replace the gear lube, NAPA has GL-1 for about $12 a gallon.

Two small bolts on front are sort of hiding by the oil pan. Not sure about the bolt size. I think 3/8 for guide pins. You could pull one of the lower ones when you are looking at the pan/clutch and take it along to the store. EDIT: You may need to replace the gasket between the trans. and bell housing.

Have you read this helpful info. http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html