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bump for solution

Did not look straight in pic from earlier thread as noted by the OP http://p15-d24.com/topic/33390-differential-advice-just-look/

and I don't need a hot water heater. If the water is hot, I don't want to heat it.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Dunlop+Gold+Seal+78&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=rcs

Do you have a #? When was the last time you got one from NAPA? NAPA online comes up blank for me.

http://p15-d24.com/topic/33157-unique-fuel-pump/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Bpump+%2Brock+%2Bauto#entry332879

3/4" socket. You can just shim your socket with a piece of paper or two for a snug fit. It isn't really all that hard to get out. The magnetic socket is suggested to reduce the possibility of it falling down inside where it takes some work to get at it. I dropped one when getting my set up cleaned up to swap in. I just plugged the hole to prevent spills until I got around to removing the bottom cover to clean things up there. There is plenty of room to get your fingers on the plug once you loosen it.

Sealed unit. Probably will not get dirty. There has been some past discussion about changing the fluid as it may lose whatever ability it has to transfer motion. Your call on that. There was a very good thread by James Douglas with his research into a suitable replacement fluid. He uses his car as a daily driver, and is looking for optimal performance from his vehicle. EDIT: a search for that thread is beyond my abilities. Search seems to now be limited to 1 year. The preferred replacement seems to be a hydraulic oil. ISO 32 The oil has the viscosity of 10W (non-detergent) motor oil. 10W oil was suggested to me by Chrysler Historical. The last 2 pages of this thread talk a bit about sources for ISO 32 http://p15-d24.com/topic/33644-input-shaft-needed/page-3

My manual calls for a check level interval every 10,000 miles. No mention of change.

Not sure what you mean about the magnetic socket to remover the "tank". Magnetic socket would be handy for the drain plug so that you do not drop it. If up want to remove the fluid coupling itself you would need a long thin box/open wrench to remove the 8 (I think its 8) nuts that hold it in place. Edit: add pic

Screens are vents. Drain by removing threaded plug, then rotate and spill it out the bottom. Why do you want to drain it ?

There should be nothing else holding it. I would go buy a couple of regular nuts to thread on, and wail on it a bit harder

Many folks have been pleased with the brake service at Tennessee Brake and Clutch. Seems they are fast and reasonable. Mail yours, they repair, send back. Edit: or a local brake shop should be able to reline. (not a national chain)

If you bought a Stant 10623 it is vented to allow air to enter the tank so that you do not have fuel starvation as you drive. It is not vented to allow for any pressure from fuel expansion to be released. My car(with a 10623) is sitting in the sun. I popped the cap, nothing. My tank may not be air tight

One way to communicate is by "private message". If you look all the way at the top of the page you will see an envelope over on the right, just to the left of your name. You can use that to send messages to more than one person at a time.. You can click on the name of anyone that posts. Then you can sent that person a message. Up top on the left, second line, you will see "Help" It will help you with using the site.

You can add to a post by using "Edit", but most following a thread do not go back and start over each time. The thread gets opened at the latest unread post, so you are better off doing it as you did here. Year by s/n http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/d24_reference_.html

Welcome to the site. Not sure what the laws are in MO., but at this point, until you match a # up some where, all you may have purchased is a title with lots of spare parts My D24 was registered (no title NY till 1973) using the motor number. After I purchased it I got the registration # changed over to the "serial number" that is on the door pillar. The engine has since been swapped out, and would have no longer matched the registration.

A 160 thermostat will probably not solve overheating problems unless your present thermostat is bad. It is just going to open sooner.

You know the engine history. Leave the head alone. Maybe check to see if the bolts are tight. (Granddad likely did it right) I would not loosen and re-torque. Running good, not leaking, I would leave that head alone.Don't create problems where they do not exist. One thing that I would do. You have the water pump off. I would pop the welch plugs out and flush the engine until it cries uncle.

P15 diagram does not show the sw, so it doesn't help a lot. This is a D25 and shows the sw wiring. I would think that you are correct that the fused connection would be the power. This section of the schematic shows the leads out. 1st position: park, tail, dash, lic lights. Second position: headlights (via the dimmer sw),tail, dash, lic lights.

I believe the switch is wired hot. EDIT: from the hot side of the ignition sw. Smaller switch is for dash lights. 3 position. Off, dim, dimmer as Greg G always says:) There is a wiring diagram in the downloads if that will help.

send one to GTK and he can add it to the downloads

Same "H" patter, just on the opposite side. Had a RH steering Mazda PU in Thailand. A bit strange shifting left handed, but gears in the same spots.

When you find a hidden spot with the original color, many small (read not auto zone pep boys advance) parts stores do custom paint orders. They will scan the paint with a hand held device, and match (well maybe match) the paint. If driving in from out of town call ahead so they can charge the batteries for the scanner.

And yesterday