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If you go to the National Grid website they have very helpful information to see if your power is out, and when restoration is expected. If I had power to do that, I would not need to do that. On the site. Check our map to see if your outage has already been reported or detected. You can also report an outage or check the status of a previously reported electric outage. Wednesday while she was on hold for 20-30 minutes attempting to talk to a live person I listened in amusement, as between songs, my wife kept getting the prerecorded message to "go to www.--------- to get information" on power outages. Hello, the power is out. We don't have internet. Cell phone wi-fi is down without power. She is one of the hundreds that must call 5 minutes after the power goes out to ask what the problem is, and when it will be resolved

Lower the coolant level first. Get it lower than the manifold studs. Coolant may come out if a manifold mounting stud comes out rather than the nut just coming off. Some studs go into the water jacket. #13 centered under the manifolds will be the most elusive. Intake and exhaust manifold must come off together, and as Greg said, separate them after removal by taking out the 4 bolts. They can not be removed individually because they overlap slightly. When reinstalling it has been suggested to leave the 4 intake to exhaust bolts slightly loose until the manifolds are snugged to the block/gaskets to get a good even fit. Someone once posted that they sanded, or planed the manifolds to get them even against the gaskets. seems that tightening the 4 bolts last could eliminate such an undertaking.

You should flag this as "best answer"

Not sure just where our power is sourced. Not sure if any of it comes from Niagara or not. My brother lives about 8 miles from me, and is on "municipal power". Cost is a lot less than where I am. The reason for the low voltage/outage has yet to be announced/published any place that I can find it. The only thing I have found is a notice at one TV site saying: "National Grid is reporting that thousands are without power in the town of Webb area, the cause is unknown". 3 days later that is still the status that they show as an "update". Maybe when the little local paper comes out on Tuesday they will have an answer. As Tim said, probably a transformer related issue. Line snapped from the cold? Did not see any reports of an accident. This summer I did have the power company here to work on my meter box. Corrosion/moisture in there was causing problems. Lights flickering/voltage fluctuating intermittently. Depending upon which circuit I checked I was getting spikes or drops. I was partially losing one leg of the 220. That voltage would end up on the other leg. Very serious business if you lose too much or completely lose one leg. At a certain point "more power" is not a good thing. Power today, but no furnace. Had to reset it last night (was -20 outside), and today woke up to a cool house. Cleaned the electronic eye, and the transformer contacts, but when reset it still will not fire up. Got the wood stove going which will hold us until we hit single digits for more than 2 nights in a row. Looks like more contributions to the furnace guys retirement fund.

If it is a manual valve, you can open it for heat, close it for no heat. That is what I did with mine. The cable operated ones could be partially opened, so I suppose you could do the same thing with the manual one as well.

To follow up the start of a new year our power went to low voltage (63 volts) just as were about to sit down for our New Year's dinner. I cut the power at the main breaker, and we lit the oil lamps. 4 degrees outside and power out for 9 hours. Went across the street to break the ice on the stream, and fetch a pail of water for flushing if needed. All in all not that bad. Nothing like those folks all across the country that have had to endure days and days without power.

I had a plate (and tow bar) custom made to attach to the frame of my 1970 Nova so that it could be flat towed. Removed bumper and mounted the plate. A bumper mounted tow set up would probably have worked as it was a solid metal bumper on that vehicle, but the thought of a car heading off somewhere on its lonesome (or attempting to) while being towed was way too scary of a thought to chance it. I had a 1985 Suzuki SA310GL (chevy sprint in USA) for which I purchased a commercially available tow bar and frame mount plate. Plastic 5 mph bumper, so no bumper mount attachment was going to work. Unless just towing it to the junkyard, I would do it so I knew it would follow as it should.(probably even then)

Rang in the New Year (awakened from my drowse) to the tune of the neighbor's fireworks.( illegal here, but many imported neighbor's that care not about the law, or anyone else) To add to that, it was getting cold in the house. The furnace had quit running. 10 degrees outside. I flipped up the transformer, pulled, cleaned, and reinstalled the electronic eye, restarted the furnace, and at this point it is still working. I need a new furnace guy that can properly adjust things, or diagnose the problem so that I get less soot. We have a wood stove for most of out heating needs, but we are in for a cold week (several nights toward zero, and below) and don't need frozen pipes so the furnace is getting a little work out. HNY to all

Some truck members visit here, the car forum, but you could choose to post this on the truck forum as well. http://p15-d24.com/forum/6-pilot-housecom-truck-forum/

Could be the gooey stuff on the input pinion. My understanding is that there should be NO grease on the pilot bushing in the fluid coupling. A light application of oil has been recommended. Could be that goo is keeping the pinion turning to cause your grinding for the gears with no synchros.

Junkyard/ebay/p15-d24 classified. Driver's side if you don't already have the dual heaters. Edit: (Perhaps the '42 did not have the knockouts in the firewall for second heater)

Looks like 111?729-29 (not date code)

Mine had a drain, but the first oil change, nothing came out of the drain. The oil was like chocolate pudding. Scooped it out by hand.

Tried it a second time. Some of the questions were different. Got a map this time. 2 out of 3 got me in the state. Buffalo, Rochester. Close enough. Did not put me on Long Guylnd Also popped me in for Madison Wisconsin. I guess have seen badgers, but have never been to the "Badger State".

Seems to be working. Just got a new ad. Norton anti-virus

Must end before that. I got no map either Probably just provided some site with info so that I can get some new pop up ads on my computer Edit: You can follow along as each question is answered. It apparently did know that I was not from Southeastern USA.

My free bucket appears to work without problem. I was going to post a link to a shady one-eyed Dodge P/U and some others, but the link appeared to allow access to make changes to my account, so I removed the link. Loaded the pic from my computer.

Collectors auto supply has them a bit cheaper. List as NOS, but could also have shelf wear.

The 2001 printing was a lower # than many years of printing, and the life of paper money being somewhat short lived the 2001 is not found as prevalently as some others. As I am sometimes accused of having the first dollar that I ever made. I have 2 of them. They were in my roll of "firewood" sales money. I have not sold firewood in 4-5 years Edit: had a 1995 as well. 3 - 1957's stored by my printer along with a $10 -dated 1934

Need to measure the drums before buying them. No point buying a out of tolerance drum

Had it all in a 10 X 18 canvass tool bad. Emptied it out to clean up the little nuts and screws that end up in the bottom. Glad they have wheelbarrows there. That load of tools was around 44 lbs. That, and about 50 lbs of parts is a struggle in the snow.

Tools for the last trip to the u-pull.

Pony truck, too short for a horse

Yup, up and down. Not sure if your 49 still does it like the earlier cars, but push handle forward to lock the door from the inside. Pull back to release.

Not a common thing, but perhaps a problem with the ignition switch. Have you checked for voltage (using a test light is best) in the system? At the coil?, at the input side of the points? (with points open)