dcotant

Got the running boards installed this weekend and as promised, a picture. I forgot how much these boards tie everything together, stylistically and mechanically. Also was finally able to get the driver side fender properly aligned. Happy to be able to stand on those boards again, we have a lot of history.

Mine had a little metal cap that was kind of scrunched to stay on. Just noticed the other day that it fell off at some time. Need to check my parts truck to see if that one is still there otherwise i might use your method.

Started out the weekend thinking I would be painting both running boards by Sunday. After spending all day Saturday on the drivers side just getting holes welded, standoffs repaired/fabricated/threads chased/ broken bolts removed, I realized that I would probably not make my goal. All standoffs are now repaired or fabricated new on both running boards. Will send a picture once they are on the truck.

I think that is why they have the welded nuts on both sides of the harp, so you can adjust for different frames or engine block lengths, but yeah you should be able to rotate that harp 180 degrees, just have to wonder if that gives you the clearance you need.

I am Kroil man myself. Used to use Liquid Wrench before they "deoderized" it. Worked better than the new liquid wrench products. After all these years I still remember the smell of it due to heavy usage here in the rust belt. The smell of Kroil is very similar so I wonder.....

Nope that will do, different bracket than I have but gives me ideas....

Say buddy, can you post a picture? I think mine are factory too, at least I have seen the exact same set up in pictures of other peoples trucks....

Oh I use my truck a lot, I just also bounce a lot. 3/4 Ton with helpers, pretty much hitting the helpers on every major bump. Thinking about rubber between the helpers and their stop bracket just to lessen the noise when they hit. Only way that I have found to smooth out my ride is with a full load of firewood.

And a picture

So for the locally available parts i picked up yesterday. Stud 620-541.1 is pretty close, but knurl diameter seems too small still. Waiting for the other parts to show mailorder. Will check fit against my hub with the missing stud. For the nuts, Dorman 611-052.1 seems to have too steep of a seat angle, not sure how it would mate with wheel, will check later. Dorman 611-053.1 has closer seat angle, and is a bigger nut, with 1" hex instead of 7/8". I kind of like that it is bigger, but i think my X lug wrenchs are 7/8 max, though I am not against finding a different tire iron. Both nuts are 9/16 - 18 threads of course. This is all so much fun but so unnecessary. I think the reason i have two spun studs is from getting tires put on ( left hand threads y'all and most tire jockeys are not paying that close attention ). Was from when I was younger. Now I remove the tire and wheel from the truck and take them in loose. Also in my early days I had a garage crush my gas tank when they put on a lift to change tires. Should have learned my lesson then.

Here is another possible candidate: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-72235-610-541.aspx Like the ones JBNeal listed above, it is a little long, but the .685 or .682 knurl diameter seems about right ,so 610-618 or 610-541 Don't see anywhere near me with 610-618 in stock, but can get qty 1 with free shipping so ordering that. 610-541 is available locally so picking that up on Thursday. Also ordering 610-048.1 which is actually 5/8-18 but looks more like the one I got from DCM. Prices are about 1/2 the DCM cost, qty 10 about $10 each.

I am guessing that you are talking 3/4 ton, (B2C) correct? If so there is another thread discussing this conundrum. However that discussion is about right hand threads. If you are replacing all, perhaps you would just switch to right hand? Any way here is that other thread. Right hand are available at $20 each from DCM, we are discussing getting a lower cost option.

I like and approve of you putting "fun" in quotes.

"For the cost I think I'll take a chance and order 20." Dimensions don't look right to me. 3/4 or 1/2 threads depending on which line you read. I did find these part numbers at Autozone at one point, have not purchased one of each yet to see if it will work or not: https://www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/wheel-bolt-and-stud/dorman-wheel-stud-610-389-1/70494_0_0 https://www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/wheel-bolt-and-stud/dorman-wheel-stud-610-510-1/70766_0_0 lengths are not mentioned in specifications. Probably purchase when I am in town next on Monday, will let you know.

For the record, here are the measurements I get from my original: Thread 9/16 - 18 Total Length 1 3/4" Thread + Shoulder 1 7/16" Length Shoulder 9/16" Shoulder Diameter 11/16" ( smooth, knurls were gone ) The 1172 and 1163 from Van Horn have 5/8 inch shoulder diameter, otherwise other dimensions are close enough. I think the mopar part listed in the parts list ( Mopar 913848 ) is for 1 ton truck. Vintage Power Wagons shows wheel studs but no dimensions and with clipped heads, I don't think they are right for 3/4 ton pilot house. Finally from another post (and from the parts list) here is the mopar part # for right thread stud for 3/4 ton 593978. But google not helping with this part # yet.

So my truck stalled ( luckily in my driveway ) and I could tell it was a fuel delivery issue. When it got warm enough and I had time enough I did the problem solving to find that my fuel pump was no longer pumping. Well that fuel pump is one of the newest parts on my truck but what the hell, I went looking for a replacement part. Whilst googling for the part a post from this forum popped up in the search so I read it. Found out about these rocker arm pivot pins walking out on newer fuel pumps. I pulled my pump and sure enough, that was the problem, pushed it back in, staked it, and back in business. Though like the guy in the post I read I am not sure I trust the staking and will probably make a clip to hold it in place. This forum is priceless, and I really appreciate everyone sharing what they learned. Even though I have had my truck for 46 years (and have been the sole mechanic to work on it all those years) , I am still learning. As more repo parts come out with problems or needed workarounds, I suspect we all are still learning. Thanks to everyone who contributes!

Found it, scroll down a little here: Parts List

If what you are looking for are the 3/4 ton studs, I ordered a couple for my B1C, and I am still looking for a better deal, but the DCM studs really work and fit but are $20 a pop: BR-280-R Wheel stud 9/16'' Right Hand Thread $20.00 1 $20.00 You should be able to get 9/16" nuts from nearly any auto parts store. I tried the Van Horn stud: Wheel Stud E-5701 M-1163 SKU: M-1163 1 $6.29 which was cheaper, but was not the right diameter at the shoulder. I got that information from a post by JBNeal but I can't seem to find it now, but i will keep looking. Despite what the website says they will sell single quantity so perhaps someone knows the right part # from them, I bet they have them.

I am really interested in your experience with these once you get them in. Both my 49 and 52 Carters run/ran rich and the externally adjustable main is very appealing.

Thanks for the feed back. I did use POR15 on the inside of fenders and grill piece, well basically everything that is not seen. I was thinking about using undercoating product. I know I should not drive in winter but it is a working truck and is the only truck I own.

could you post the ebay link?

Anyone ever fabricate a panel to protect the front grill piece and structural elements from wheel splatter? The few trucks I have worked on had extensive rust in this area in addition to corrosion to the headlight buckets and turn signals not to mention the "butterfly" structural support. Was thinking if there was like an ABS panel in there to prevent the splatter from going forward of the seam between fenders and grill piece might help with that. Though it is true the trucks I have worked on are in the "Salt Mine of the Rust Belt". I know Western and Southern trucks probably don't have these problems. I want to drive my truck year round so interested in protecting these assets.

Can you share the part # for the hose?

Damn I love my truck!

"Can I unbolt the bell housing or should I try to remove the 4 bolts that attach the bell housing to the motor mounts?" I have done it both ways. If you unbolt the bell housing from the engine there is less to pull out, but if the dog house is off it doesn't matter much, just threading through the frame. Problem with unbolting the engine from the bell housing is that you are under the truck to pull the clutch and flywheel because engine won't pull away with them on. Transmission has to be off in both situations.