westaus29

As well as arcing the shoes, make yourself one of those fancy tools (or fork out $100 to buy one from a mopar supplier) and adjust the brakes properly. The early Chrysler brakes have fixed pivots and need to be adjusted both at pivot and cam.

sorry my fingers got ahead of my brain .. should have been 11/32" for sure

3/8 pins sound a bit large? I had a similar problem with my 38 Richards body, ended up buying GM door hinge pins 4" x 11/16 and reaming to fit. They are readily available and much cheaper than alternatives. Try Auveco 14559 part number.

Old Era Services in NSW have been very helpful to me with 38 and 55 Plymouths, good website and good to talk to on phone, very knowledgeable

I have a 20 tonne press and the pins come out ok but need plenty of pressure

One advantage of right hand drive I hadn't realised - the starter is easy to get at! Be thankful it's not a Volkswagon Amarok, took us 2 days and just about wore out my hoist motor.

I bought the rebuild kit for my 38 from Roberts, another normally reliable supplier. Half the parts were chinese crap and the end caps were wrong profile and would not slide together. I ended up using keithb7's process with a mix of new and old parts. I woud recommend stripping and cleaning the joint thoroughly first.

A shout out to Sam Buchanan for designing and updating his original brake adjusting tool back in 2019. I have passed his link on to lots of Chrysler fans in recent years. Keith's video uses the same tool and is a good resource.

Sorry if the Aus english does not translate. We call a 6x4 single axle or 8x6 double axle utility trailer a box trailer. The fabrication shop has all the bending and cutting gear needed for simple shapes like car sills.

We sure need to be inventive to operate in Aus - try regional WA for a real challenge. Your grub screws should be plenty strong enough as I am pretty sure they are hi tensile, need to be to withstand allen key tightening.

I live in regional WA Australia and hate paying exorbitant shipping for poor quality parts. I made a sketch of repair panels for my 55 Plymouth rockers and had them fabricated by a local box trailer manufacturer from 1.2 mm (18 gauge). Bought an air operated joggler, made lap joints with mig spot welds. Quick, strong and cheap. 22 is too light in my opinion, walks when you weld it.

Thanks Pete. The 7 pass rear springs are much heavier than the sedan, more leaves and very little flex in them. Time will tell, can always redo them, only takes a day. I recently heard there is a firm in Perth 60 km away that does old cars so may have that as a backup.

Thanks for posting - always something new to be learned!

Thanks Andy. We have just returned from 2.5 weeks in Victoria where we drove our 1929U 4 cylinder Plymouth almost 1800 km in three tours as part of 100 years of Chrysler. Smallest car to participate in all three. Ended up at Chrysler on the Murray - what a blast!

Next cleaned up rear axle, fertanned for rust protection and painted Installed axle Cleaned up drums and backing plates. Assembled brake wheel cylinders using NOS pistons and springs and new modern seals (not bled at this stage). Note the cask of throat lubricant at top left. Wheel cylinders and master cylinder were resleeved in gunmetal years ago. Today I would ask for stainless as the gunmetal reacts with the aluminum pistons Cleaned up and installed tie rod Anti sway bar Wheels on and chassis mobile!