Niel Hoback

Jerry Roberts may have hit on it there. Can you feel the big spring inside the lower hose? Are you sure its there?

Looks like a DeSoto grill. Nice looking car.

I think most people, including me will tell you not to pump the gas on hot start. That will make it hard to start.

Brain lock; forgot pictures.

I came across a good used D-24 headlight switch with a very nice knob on it, and a NOS lens and copper colored background for a P-14 speedometer. They need to go to people that need them. Tell me that you are going to make a donation to this forum for an amount of your choice and I will send them out postage paid.

What I did: Grind the rivet heads off and pry the drum from the hub. Heat the hub with tension on it from a large gear puller hooked around the edges. Warm up your vocabulary and have at it!

Check the timing first, Chance, then spend money on parts.

I think there was a change in the number of teeth on the flywheel. But maybe you could just change the starter drive? I guess I just don't know.

See if the spark advance weights are moving freely and also the vaccuum unit. If everything there is good, I would clean all the passages in the carb with compressed air.

Color is a personal choice. From the looks of the excellent work you've already done on the doors, a nice light blue cloth would be my choice.

I think in terms of "if it were mine". Remove the hood and radiator, Install the 58 engine and transmission together and without rewiring the whole car, go to 12 volts since you starter won't work on that engine. That's just my opinion. That would make an excellent driver.

Maybe its just me, but I think I smell something. I have always been overly cautious. The thing is, he says hes an engineer and yet he doesn't know the difference between ad and add. Possibly he isn't a good speller, He typo'd? I don't know, I've seen "lawyers" do worse, I guess.

Man, that is a beautiful automobile!

Compare the procedure for a valve adjustment on a Mopar and flathead ford. Then you will know why Chrysler is known for engineering.

Its one of those "just because you can doesn't mean you should" things.

Forever. Thats the way mine is and it works fine.

Red wheels seem to look good with just about any color body. They really make that grey look classy.

He must have been watching B-J auctions on tv. Or he's got something really good to smoke.

If you have a long thin punch or chisel, you may save time by driving it between the spring eye and the outer metal bushing. If you can get it to buckle inward you will be able to slip it out rather easily. This is after you get the inner bushing and the rubber out. If you have to cut the metal bushing, try to avoid nicking the spring itself. I used a Bosch sawzall to make short work of it.

They may come off, and they may just sieze up and twist off the end of the u-bolt. At least wire brush the threads and use plenty of pentrating oil several times the day before you start loosening things. Its been my experience that if you get the nut to turn, don't stop until its off. Keep lots of oil on the threads and go for it. I wish you were closer, I give you a hand, with the radio, that is.

I got mine from Rockauto, around $35. You can get them either 6 volt or 12. It's been working very well. I like being able to hear the motor fire on the first crank no matter how long its been sitting.

Just another opinion, having just done it recently, changing the rear shackles is no worse than changing the rear shocks. Its a matter of watching how much the spring moves and using common sense. The "silent block" is another matter. Since you will have the rear shackles off, chase the u-bolt threads and remove the lower shock nut and washer and the four u-bolt nuts. Support the axle at the center and remove the front spring bolt. When the spring is out, you will have to destroy the old silent block to get it out. You can use and old socket and push the center bushing out. Then pull out all the old rubber. You can use a hacksaw or a power saber saw to cut a slot in the outer metal of the bushing. Once you have split the metal you can use anything to collapse it inwards and pull it out. Clean the rust out of the spring eye and push the new busing in with a vise or a large clamp using sockets as a pusher and receiver. Its really quite simple hammer and tongs work, but much easier with the spring off the car. Remember, this is just another opinion on how I did it. Wear safety glasses and good gloves. Turn the radio up so the neighbors won't hear what you say.

30-40 bucks for a gas cap? I paid $35 for my first P-15 and drove it for two years. Now I'm really feeling old.

Congratulations! There's nothing like that first ride. Now you know why Walter P. was known for great engineering. Even at this age, these cars can still do what they were designed to do, and do it well!

Looks like the battery.