Niel Hoback

Thats great news! You may have to give up your hobby of Olympic ice dancing, though. Get out there and drive!

Jim, I have used bought and used new stats with a small hole already in the valve. It was obvious why the hole was there. The hole is smaller than 1/8". When you pour in the coolant, you can hear air bubbling up through the top hose. If you're in a real hurry, take the top heater hose off at the heater anD fill until it comes out. That is the highest point in the system.

Thats odd, gas here went from 3.17 to 3.54 in 4 days and is still rising. I do want to thank B Watson for those codes. I have a block with a casting date of 1959 and the first letter on the motor number is "M". I love it when things make sense. Doesn't happen often around my house.

26 this morning. It could and will be worse.

For many years I worked around lots of Mopar powered tractors that ran on propane. They were, and probably still are used indoors and the exhaust smells very sweet.

I guess now that you are referring to the advance port fitting. The hole I thought you meant is verticle through the bottom of the throttle plate body and pulls the power piston down. The vacuum advance port on one carb should be enough to activate the advance diaphragm. Check the pictures of others who are using dual carbs to see if they use one or two ports. Sorry for the confusion.

If it accelerates fine with WOT, then none of my suggestions are a good possibility.

And a great sigh of relief was heard across the land.

Plugging the vacuum port in the bottom of the carb will only disable the power jet causing the carb to run rich all the time.

Fuel level is too low? Main jet is too small? Fuel pump weak. I had a carb from a 218 that I put on a 230 and got your symptoms. The main jet numbers were different as the 230 had a bigger hole.

We're with you in spirit fellas. Good luck to you both.

Its a P-15 wheel with a broken horn ring. Looks to be in pretty good shape, too.

Can't wait for the next chapter!

I have seen advertising from Chrysler that touted the floating power. The front mounts are up above the crank centerline and the rear mounts are below it. The ad shows a diagonal line through the motor saying that the torque twists the motor with half of the weight above the crank and half below, helping to minimize the reaction to torque vibration. It would seem that having both ends mounted below the crank would allow the entire engine to rock sideways on its mounts due to torque reaction. I realize that most engines now are mounted that way, but most also use a torque strut or "dog bone" to minimize engine rocking movement. Does it sound like I have to much free time?

Every day someone has to prove PT Barnum was right. He was right then and hes right now.

Its good to see the wayback machine up and running with the world famous co-pilot Cooper on the job. We're very glad you're life is getting back to normal, if there is such a thing. I'm happy for you.

Thanks for the update, buried in there is good news. I am sure the residents of New Jersy are grateful for your help.

No.

Thinking about it, I had a Chevy that did that to me a lot until I made a better ground for the regulator. Yeah, where's Cooper?

Thread heading had me worried there.

If you were in the US you would have more work than you could handle just from this forum! Excellent job, thats a lucky P-15.

I don't know if you did anything wrong, but, here's what I did. After I set the gauge to just barely touch the each show at both ends, I turned the minor adjustment all the way in. The drums slid on without touching the shoes anywhere. Last, I readjusted the minor cams until I could feel them touch the drum. This is because the shoes were not arced to fit the drums, and a little high in the middle, although they were within a few thousandths. The pedal was a little low for comfort, so I adjusted them again to a very slight drag. The pedal height is good, more importantly, the brakes are all even. Since I did this, the shoes have worn to the size of the drums and do not drag while still having a high pedal. Your drums seem rather worn at .45 and new shoes will not fit exactly right until they are arced. Either by machine or by good driving down the road with occasional adjustment.

I'm worried about that front dump. It looks to be a straight shot at the fuel pump. Are you going to use an electric pump?

I got two wagner halogens a few years ago at, of all places, Autozone. They kept them on the shelf for VW owners. Indeed, they are bright!

Geez, a good right side rocker molding and the rear springs someone here was looking for yesterday.