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sorensen_dk

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About sorensen_dk

  • Birthday 06/01/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denmark, Europe.
  • My Project Cars
    -

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I currently own a '38 Dodge 4-door and a Coupe.
  • Occupation
    Software engineering.

Converted

  • Location
    Denmark, Europe.
  • Interests
    1930s MoPars, especially '38 Dodge.

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415 profile views
  1. Just want to mention I got the correct set from Steele Rubber but that was more than a decade ago. They now only stock the front mount it appears.
  2. Just an idea: have you considered matching up your bushings with later model polyurethane type bushings?
  3. Very cool the '39 DeSoto. On a couple of occasions I've had a ticking sound that turned out to be dry/loose fan belt. Your engine does seem to shake a bit at idle. While you're at it check the engine mounts; they tend to collapse with age - two at the rear and one up front. They are not too difficult to replace if you already have the floor pan out. Tom
  4. Recently another member had huge problems getting his engine running....have a look at this thread - packed with god info: http://p15-d24.com/topic/36010-new-guy-with-1950-desoto-starting-issue/ Apparently his timing was way off. I would suspect timing issue if engine does not fire at all. Tom
  5. According to my Ply handbook all engines '46-'54 were 217.8 cui, '55 was first 230 cui Plymouth. They had same bore though so the block might be correct. T.
  6. It seems like you have too many unknowns at the moment. In your case I would return to square one and have the distributor properly bench tested at a competent auto electric shop. I once had my distributor tested; the shop guy was surprised how well it performed way beyond the red-line of a flathead. Tom
  7. Hi Wilf, Long thread......just a couple of comments: 1/ Your wet compression numbers look odd having zero improvement and #1 is even worse. Did you get oil into the cylinders? 2/ How is your battery doing? You may not have enough voltage on the coil while cranking the engine. I would hook up the coil directly to a separate battery to make sure you have prime spark. 3/ As Don Coatney pointed it's essential to get at least get the static timing right. 4/ Some times what we say is not what we do. You might snap some video sequences of the trouble shooting and post them. Hope you succeed, Tom
  8. Enjoy this survivor (although engine was replaced) - sounds amazing: (1) (2) (3) Tom
  9. For the record.....it would very interesting if someone had photos or brochures showing a dual carb/exhaust Dodge truck chassis with the entire exhaust system exposed. I'm sure the Chrysler engineers had a cost effective configuration worked out. Tom
  10. Have you noticed the drainage hole to the front in the recessed part (below the gasked) that ends in a small tube thing? It should be extended with a piece of hose going through the firewall. Water will never get into the car even if the gasket is less that perfect. At least this is how it works on a '38. Best, Tom
  11. Disturbing facts indeed. I stand corrected. Tom
  12. Wow, did you lose the bolts on the pulley? My point being the fan blades are not separately riveted to a hub.
  13. I would like to offer a couple more observations on the fan topic. By pure coincidence, I noticed that the fan pulley on my T236 engine (Canadian) measured an almost one inch smaller diameter than than the original D8 engine pulley. Smaller diameter means higher speed and consequently more fan noise. Switching to original pulley and fan lowered the noise significantly. At 55 mph the improvement was huge. I also ran the engine without fan but I feel that going with the original setup (large pulley) there is not much gained. I know larger pulley means slower circulation in the block, but that's how it was designed anyway. So, look out for pulley size. BTW: the original 4 bladed fan is made from two peaces of stamped metal bolted to the pulley so the fan blades can never "take off".
  14. This book came with one of my cars. Covers sixes and early V8s. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-Chrysler-Built-Owners-Handbook-Floyd-Clymer-Dodge-Desoto-1955-/270962960289 I found it very useful as you can cross reference a lot of specs for models up until 1955. Many things are explained a little differently than in the original shop manual, in some cases actually better. I recommend it.
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