soth122003

Hey Steve, Is your car Left hand drive or RHD? Next, I would try to temp fit the cable from the box to your 37 Just the cable housing. The inner cable should pull out. Does it screw on at both ends? Does it kink or bind? Is it to short? If the fit is good, measure the length of the cable. There are speedo cable replacements that are just the inner cable. This link is just to give you an idea of what your looking for, not an exact match for your car. https://www.ebay.com/itm/315921496791?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D278005%2C277954%2C277961%26meid%3Df849996987dd46f98e3fb095222d0baa%26pid%3D101949%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D315921496791%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2WithMLRPbooster_BP%26brand%3DDorman%2FHelp&_trksid=p4375194.c101949.m162918&_trkparms=parentrq%3Acb6307271930a47d696585c5fffff782|pageci%3Adfd72357-bb0a-11ef-aec0-725184b148cd|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage Sorry I don't know how to make the short link. If the length is good you can order one of these and use it. As far as lube YES!! I use white lithium grease. Just spray some into the cable housing and spray the length of the inner cable. As you insert into the housing it will spread the lube. My general understanding of speedo cables is that most period cable housings from that era as long as it is from the Chrysler Corp will fit your speedo and tranny connections. The only difference is the length of the cable. You can't go to short but a little long won't hurt. Hope this helps and gives you some ideas. Joe Lee

The shop manuals say to use nothing at all, due to the parts being machine fitted. With that being said, after 60, 70 and 80+ years of wear, I believe the machine fit is a little worn and moisture can seep in, causing a sticky drum. I clean the shaft and drum surface with a green scrub pad then I use a little bit of grease smeared on the shaft surface then wipe it off with a clean rag. The residue (IMHO) will act as a filler and lube to keep out the moisture and crud that loves to make the drum a nightmare to remove. I believe this will aid in the drum removal process in a few years if I need to remove the drum for brake shoe replacement of brake maintenance that will eventually be required. The first time I removed the rear drums, the right took about 3 hours and the left took about a day and a half. Replaced the shoes and leaky wheel cylinders and cleaned the shaft and drum, greased the shaft and put all back together. About three years later pulled the rear drums looking for a brake fluid leak and the drums popped of with about 20 minutes of the puller and impact gun. I also cut notches in the brake adjustment stud that the nut goes on, on the back of the brake plate, so I could adjust the rear brakes using a flat head screwdriver with out pulling the drum. That worked great. I've pulled one or the other of the drums in recent years for maintenance and had no problem pulling the drums. Joe Lee P.S. reminds me I gotta pull the drums this spring to check the shoes and cylinders. been a couple of years since I checked the shoes and the pedal is riding a little low.

If you want to store it outside, I would build a box to store it in and use a regular motor oil to "pickle it". Then put in a couple of moisture absorbing packs in the box and put the lid on tight and cover it. While the climate control is nice, Most places before the 70's, climate control was out of the elements in a room or shed, and the parts lasted for decades. After all, look at how many barn finds or field finds there are and the engine usually needs only a little bit of TLC to get it running, despite spending years at the find sites. Joe Lee

I started this reply as a joke, but after some thought, my post might have some credulity. What if the tranny is for a right hand drive car? and the speedo cable only appears to be on the wrong side. Since I know nothing of how the RHD cars are set up, maybe one of the down under members can set me straight. Joe Lee

The 1934 to 1940 Motors Manual will also have a good bit of info on your car, for those more in-depth repairs that might pop up, that your mechanic (if you have or can find one) or you will need to know how to work on or find parts for. I find that I use my 35 to 53 Motors manual about 2 times more than the service manual due to cross referencing between model cars of the same year as my Plymouth, since most engine, suspension, tranny and other parts will inter change for repair purposes. Joe Lee

Are you sure it's a crush washer and not just a soft thin metal washer? If your just looking to seal it, try the hardware store for a washer in the plumping supplies. Or you can use thin cork gasket material and cut one your self. Joe Lee

Quick thought on the silver tankers I listed above. Our original paint on the engines was silver as well right. Now most are rust colored or a different color other than silver. I think my thesis is starting to hold more water. (or B.S. if you have an opposing view). Joe Lee

Ok time for my thesis on why. Now I learned my thermodynamics from my Professors. Professor Ludwick Von Drake and Doctor Vinnie VoomBots. I know, I know, you guys are already saying this ought to be good and it will be. Now where was I? Oh Yes! When crude oil is taken out of the ground it doesn't see the light of day (the Sun) and it is heated and separated by heat into it's component liquids (gas, oil, plastic, nylon what have you), Then cooled and sent to it's proper tanks for other additives to be introduced to screw it up into winter and summer blends. After this it doesn't see heat again until used. It is then transported to the white holing tanks for distribution. The white reflects the sun to keep it cool. (Can you see where I'm going with this?) After this it is put into truck tanks that are silver and transported to the gas stations. You may not be aware of why the tanks are silver but it is my belief that wind rushing of silver tanks at 60-70 mph keeps the temps of the gas stable at 62.6 degrees through the process of aluminum foil on a bologna sandwich in a lunch box. (That is why the bread is soggy when you unwrap it) When the trucks reach the gas station the the contents are pumped into under ground tanks that store gas and keep the temp around 65 degrees. Now when we pump the gas into our cars of different colors we lose the thermal properties of silver and under ground tanks. Which now brings us to the eggheads and nerds screaming about global warming, climate change or what have you. The fuel in the cars now have a new playground to expand and contract with no rules at all. In the case where the outside air temp fluctuates thru-out the day it leads to vapor lock and flooding at the same time. The engine heats up and the fuel expands next to the heat source and leads to vapor lock when the car is slow or stopped due to no airflow thru the engine compartment. The fuel in the carb boils and settles into the intake which is kept cool by the air being sucked in and by the vacuum effect is cooled down. This results in the 5minute stop being subjected to flooding because the exhaust manifolds can't heat the intake manifold to evaporate the fuel. Conversely in hot areas like the southwest, the air is always hot and does not cool down as much as in the above described process so the fuel in the intake evaporate in 2.7 minutes so no flooding. This does however leave the issue of vapor lock. It is my belief that the warmer fuel in the southwest is less prone to vapor lock because it has evolved to enjoy the warmer weather. This is why so many people flock the Florida and Texas from New England in the colder times. Also since most of the Mopar owners above the Mason Dixon line only drive there cars in the nicer weather the gas is going from cold to hot to cold and so on, this leads to more case of flooding and vapor lock. So in conclusion to my thermal thesis I think I have demonstrated that: 1. fuel likes to be in a atomized or gaseous state so that it can enjoy the warmth it has been deprived of and 2. Either move down south to enjoy your Mopar or only drive it in the cooler or cold months where your heater doesn't work or is not installed so the fuel doesn't know what it's brethren in the south has discovered. 3. The climate of the 40's and 50's wasn't subjected to the thoughts and ideas of the so called experts we have now a days so it stayed stable and not effected by the whims of the internet, thus the cars and fuel back in that time had no idea that things could be otherwise and did what they were supposed to do. And for goodness sake don't drive your Mopar from south to north so the fuel can let the secret out. Now that concludes my thesis and I will humbly accept any discussion and feedback on the matter. Joe Lee

I switch over to getting my battery from Tractor Supply. The have a good turn over of batteries due the farming equipment that local farmers still use. Like Sam's mine was 6 years old and finally gave up the ghost and the local Tractor supply had one left in stock when I went there to replace it. The date code said it was 2 months old. Joe Lee

Why are changing the sockets? If it is because the wiring is bad, you should be able to push the old base out of the socket and solder a new wire to it. I was just wondering because that seems to be what you pic shows. Joe Lee

Welcome to the forum. First things first. If the fuel pump/lines hasn't been updated to use ethanol fuel...don't use ethanol fuel. Update or stay with non-ethanol fuel. Mine wasn't when I got it and a month or so later it left me stranded. Next is zinc additives. Not needed. Oil. 10w30 or 40 will work fine if the engine is in good shape. You said it was about 95% restored so engine should be good. Trust but verify it was rebuilt. Now for the jump. WITH DEAD BATTERY ONLY. The new modern lithium ion packs probably won't work as they need a minimum voltage to work (10.5v) and most all are geared to 12v systems. So 5.4v wont cut it. If you use the old jump packs with a 12v batt installed inside it, Hook the pos cable to ground and the neg to the starter if it has a switch on the pack. Then with key on turn the switch to run the starter. When started turn switch off and disconnect. If the jump pack does not have a switch hook the neg cable to the starter and touch the pos to ground. This way if the jumper arcs (and it will) you won't weld the cable to the threaded post of the starter and mess up the threads. Other option with no jump pack, push start the car in 2nd gear. I've done this many times and it usually starts with in 15 to 20 feet. On a hill, push in clutch and roll, doesn't matter if forward or backward put it in 2nd or reverse and pop the clutch and drive on home and charge the battery with a charger. With a car that won't start it may be battery, generator, voltage regulator or what ever. Tow the car home. Fix the problem and verify the batteries condition. If the genny or the VR is out the car won't run past the batteries output. Once the batt is dead the car won't start until the other issues are addressed and fixed. Hope this helps. Oh and please post PICs when you get the car. Joe Lee

Should be. The vacuum is produced by the engines piston on the intake stroke. My hook up is at the no. 6 area on the manifold, so how it would measure the no. 1 piston area is a mystery. lol. Any who, if you want to make sure, you could put nipples in both carbs and connect them with a t fitting, but I don't think it will make a difference. You can search the threads for vacuum gage results and learn what the different readings mean. It might also have it in your service manual. Joe Lee

Chrisjr14, Since you have a 53 dodge, I going to guess you have electric wipers. Since you have dual carbs what kind of carbs do have? If you have the B&B, at the carbs at the base should be a plug for the vacuum advance. Pull the plug and install a barb nipple fitting and hook up the vacuum gage there. You only need to use one of the carbs, not both. I believe all down draft carbs have this plug, but I won't put money on it. Also since you have dual carbs, I'm guessing you have a split manifold? If the manifold is an original modded to a split, check at the number 6 intake and see if there is a plug there. If so pull the plug and install a barb nipple there instead. That was for the vacuum wipers on other cars. Joe Lee

I don't know if the manual says this, but the last check I did on mine when installing it (long time ago) was put the car in neutral and apply the brake. Then try to roll the car. If if didn't move good. Then release the brake and make sure the car rolled smoothly. If it did great. If not for either of these two check back under it to adjust. Of course I do this and all works good, but a few weeks later I'm driving and notice "The Smell". I forgot to release the parking break. But no harm done other than feeling foolish. Joe Lee

Looks like it's on the intake manifold, so maybe the intake valve isn't quite sealing all the way and your got a bit of oil into it and the engine heat is cooking it. Pull the spark plug and give it a look over when you do the compression check. Could be from a wet comp check and the intake valve wasn't closed when whoever put in oil to do the check. Joe Lee