soth122003

Sorry GT, from your other post I made an assumption. You posted the following: "Starter quit working today, the carshows are everywhere but the ole Gal will not work anymore ... It's a 6V pos. ground Car, 6V works fine but the starter. Everything worked perfectly until yesterday." From that I assumed you had been driving or starting the car on a regular basis. That's what threw me. Something just does not stop working due to a wrong part or "starter" in this case, after working for a good while. The other thing that was throwing me off was the comment of a starter for a D-19 with a P-18 engine. The P-18 doesn't use a foot starter. Then I had to remember that the starter doesn't bolt to the engine it bolts to the bell housing. My brain misfires like that from time to time, so that's on me. LoL. Now back to your problem. The D-19 (forget about the P-18 unless it is engine related) has 2 starters listed for it. The starter models are MZ-4089 and the MZ-4089A.(From the 1935-1953 Motors Manual). What the difference is I don't know, Some one with a parts manual may be able to say. If you heard a clunk and the starter stopped engaging, then I would guess that either something broke in the pinion, or a couple of teeth may have broken on the ring. (Had that happen to me before on a 69 Tornado, I had to roll the engine by the crankshaft nut to get it engage on good teeth.) You might want to give the ring gear a good look see to make sure all the teeth are good. You said you heard a clunk and that might have been a tooth or a couple of teeth breaking off. If your starter looks good and no visiable signs of damage I would check the ring gear. Joe Lee

Doubtful. You stated in different post the starter worked fine and then quit working. Inside the drive housing (pinion housing) you should have an over running clutch assy. This consists of yoke clevis attachment part, a spring, a bearing and the gear. If the spring is broken or missing it will limit the travel of the assy. The only other thing I can think of is the switch assy. If the contact button is adjustable, screw it in a little to let the arm engage it later adding more travel to the over running clutch assy. By the way, you don't have to start a new thread for the same problem. It makes it harder for people reading to have a clear idea of what's going on by have to switch back and forth between threads. Joe Lee

Newer model cars. The 49 has tapered rear axles and a key to keep the drum from spinning on the axle. In other words the drum and axle are like a mated fit. You'll need the proper drum puller to remove the rear drums. The fronts have bearings that the drum rides on and come off easy. Joe Lee

Easy to do since the spark plug hole is right above the valves. Just look and make sure both valve are closed when you get a puff of air on #1. Joe Lee

Glad to hear it. As far as the oil pump goes it can be a 2 man job, but only to make it easy. One man has to go back and forth to each side of the engine, but only a few times. (I can see why you don't want to do it. It runs fine now an if it ain't broke don't mess with it LOL). As far as the wheel bearings go, I would order them by the old wheel bearing part numbers and not the car they are attached to. Ask me how I know. Lol Joe Lee

I am not a foot starter expert, but looking at the pics in the Motors Manual and reading your problem, it sounds mechanical. If the yoke became disconnected from the starter then it (according to the pics) will engage the starter but not engage the drive to the ring gear. Same if the spring on the shaft broke. You'll have to pull the starter and see. until then everything we say is just a guess. Joe Lee

Sounds like the PO tried to get it running by memory and offset the timing. Try what Keithb said and static time it. It should start/run with little to no adjustment on the dizzy. Yes and no. If the pulley has a harmonic balancer on it, it is possible for it to have slipped and moved, meaning the timing marks are no longer aligned. If there isn't one the normally yes the timing marks can be trusted. The little plug above the number 6 cylinder is a pipe plug with tapered pipe threads and can be removed with some penetrating oil and a pipe wrench. Just take it slow and steady and maybe some heat and it should come out fairly easy. Joe Lee

Best guess from the pics posted is a rubber mallet to the ring gear. Light to moderate thumps while rotating the drive and using a wooden 2x2 to apply light pressure other side of the drive. If no else post something to help. You might try an air hammer to the flange in light trigger taps as you rotate the drive. This vibration through the metal from the hammer might help loosen the bond. Needless to say this is probably a last resort thing. Joe Lee

You're also right Doug, the Stromberg was also used on Dodge, 35-52 used the BVX-3 and the BVXD-3. I guess the D was for dashpot. I don't know if the Carter BB had a dashpot model or not though. The Stromberg listing was about 35 pages past the Carter listings in the Motors Manual (and I forgot about them to tell the truth). Joe Lee

Cooper check out this vid from Keithb7. You can probably rent a load leveler from an auto parts store for free. Most auto parts stores have a loan a tool program, they charge the tool cost to rent and then when you bring the tool back they refund your money. Or just buy one. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-load-leveler-60659.html?_br_psugg_q=load+leveler https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hy3RFIwMomo Joe Lee

I looked at the 1k and 2k stands on HB. And while I agree with JB that the 1k should be enough for the engine, The way the base of the 1k and the 2k are designed would make me go with the 2k. The 1k base is square and more narrow at the front and the 2k base is y'd and seems like it would handle the weight distro better. This makes the 2k more stable when breaking torques and stuck bolts or rotating the engine etc. Last thing you need is a stand that will support the weight but tips over when breaking or applying torques or rotating the engine to work on it more easily. Joe Lee

Correct carb for a 1946-1949 Dodge is a Carter B&B D6J1 according to the Motors Manual 1935-53. Joe Lee

1937 Plymouth carb models. B6G1, C6F1-5, C6H1, from the 35-53 Motors Manual. Joe Lee

I believe almost any of the Carter B&B carbs will fit your 38. Just look real close at the pics and make sure they match up close. The mount to the intake should be the same on all B&B's. Best bet is E-bay and try to find one that's been on a wrecked or sitting car that hasn't been used in years. They are easier to rebuild and you will probably be able to mix and match from your old carb. Also, cleaning and lubeing the throttle shaft, your problem will come back. May be a few weeks or a few years. The wear on the shaft will always let dirt in and it will hang again at some point. Short of a professional rebuild to address bushing wear, that's about the best you can hope for. 1938 Carter models are: B6H1, B6J1, C6J1 and C6K1. Like I said check Ebay. Joe Lee

Just a thought, but I think JBneal is onto the cause. Your area around the throttle shaft has a little bit of crud (not really visable to the eye) between the shaft and the bushing, that is being affected by the heat or vibration from a running engine. This is either causing it to become sticky when warm or expanding a little to keep the throttle from not closing all the way with out the snap from tapping the throttle. You might want to take the carb off and soak the throttle plate section (or the hole carb) in a carb cleaning solution for a few hours and then clean it off according to the instructions. Best result would be to completely disassemble the carb and soak it or use a sonic cleaning machine. My car does this occasionally and it can be annoying but is really a minor annoyance, and just tap the throttle to fix. When I need to pull the carb for major cleaning or repair, that will be addressed at that time. Joe Lee