Old CWO

Plenty of Jeep rear axles will work but best option in my opinion is the 29 spline 97-01 XJ Cherokee Chrysler 8.25. It's common, strong and already set up for leaf springs so no link suspension brackets to cut/grind. Those are drum brake axles but can be converted to disc if you are so inclined. It makes for a clean and easy swap - there's one under my truck and I like it. I think a cool (but bigger pain in the neck) option would be a Ford 9". I am thinking a large Ford passenger car like those giant early 70s Mustangs or maybe a Torino is about the right size to start with and has the small five lug pattern. I know the 9" rear from a 67-72 F100 is the right width for early Mopars and has 11" brakes but that is factory with the 5x5.5 pattern so would have to be dealt with.

regular old 1310 series u-joints

Use a Chrysler 8.25 from a 97-01 XJ Cherokee. There were 8.25s in XJs before 1997 but they are 27 spline, 97 and newer are 29 spline. Might as well use the stronger set up since it's easy to find. Some Cherokees had the Dana 35 - that is not the axle that you want.

If you're still considering transmission options, my suggestion is to take the time and effort to fit up something with overdrive. OD transmissions give you the flexibility to run a lot lower axle gears for peppy bottom end performance while maintaining comfortable highway driving. A modest displacement engine "punches above it's weight" in daily driving when geared properly; warmed up V8s run like scalded dogs.

I think for this particular swap, you're going to have to stab it in and sort of see what's what. The TV show guys seem to be able to do it in five minutes so it's obviously easy, right?? Transdapt used to make some universal and semi-universal engine swap mounts and cradles. If I recall they were mostly Chevy/Ford focused but might be a good jumping off point for a Mopar project. The poly 318s are similar to the LA; perhaps those mounts are also similar enough to start from.

For sure, I have seen that situation more times than I can recall. Those projects are the ones to scoop up for a song after the guy succumbs to his wife's nagging about the pile of junk in the garage!

I can tell you that my black vinyl bench was not fun during the summer here in the high desert. It's now brown fabric on the contact surfaces... If you're looking for an interior dye/paint for the panels, check out SEM Blue Bird school bus brown. While technically not "original" it sure looks appropriate to the vintage.

Fair winds and following seas Mr. Coatney.

I was taught to use a folded section of emery cloth.

Luna's in Van Nuys or Reseda Muffler and Brake are a couple old school style shops near you. How to set it up is tough to say since what sounds nice is really subjective, but it seems like most people I meet prefer the glass pack "cackle-y" sound on flatties. I like your idea of 2 in 1 out and that's what I would probably run; 2" dual in with a 2 1/4 single tailpipe to try and get a little deeper tone. I am thinking a Magnaflow 11148 muffler since you get a glasspack type interior with a compact turbo muffler package, two 2" on one end and single centered 2.25 on the other. Muffler shop should be able to plumb that in without much effort.

This can not be over stated especially now that common road speeds are significantly higher than when our vintage iron was designed. Good reminder, thanks.

Yes sir, I'm picking up what you're puttin' down. I would almost say late Mopar is getting nearly as soul-less as the "brand X" engines. Make a couple of clicks, load up the Master Card and a nifty new performance wonder is on the shipping dock before you know it. That's not meant to downplay how good those engines are, I wish I had one in something sporty with bright red paint and three pedals. Just, you know, sort of a belly-button engine. Euro diesel is interesting idea - I have seen a couple of VW oil burners swapped into Suzuki Samurais but not much else. Small industrial engines are also intriguing, but then that's just what the Chrysler flathead is anyway... I know they're sort of long, but a Jeep 4.0 is a great engine that doesn't get the swap creds it deserves in my opinion. I drove one dropped into an early 60s J-Truck. While no tire burner, what a smooth running little mill that's easy to keep in it's powerband. It would be cool to see one of those or even an AMC 258 engine in a B series Dodge.

Some folks on this board are a little in the purist camp and that's okay. Stock or restored stuff is a great window to history and lots of fun. I wouldn't, however, expect anyone on the HAMB to bat an eye if someone was building a Ford using a vintage hemi engine, LaSalle transmission or Halibrand rear axle. Cross pollinating has always been a component of hot rodding and it doesn't ruffle my feathers if done with an eye towards safety, reliability, performance or even looks. That being said, I have seen a lifetime's worth of SBC and now LS swaps. I get it, that's a path of least resistance; they're just boring. I would much rather see a freshened up Poly 318 than another run of the mill chrome valve covered crate 350. At the end of the day, I would say it's better the old Mopars are on the road with an S10 chassis underneath than sit in a field going to rust.

Very cool. Now there are two S10 frame swaps I am anxious to see progress! When done, these S10 chassis conversions should be much more comfortable to drive than the original trucks. Please start a thread when you get started so we can live vicariously through your project as well.

that looks like a fun truck, I dig the way the side pipes tuck up to the running boards. Concur on the seat, it looks terrible but should be an easy fix. There's no vintage Hemi under the hood, but at least the Buford engine doesn't have the distributor in the wrong place like a SBC. Jeep sourced Buick V6 and V8 engines for several models back in the 60s and 70s so I guess that gives you some distant Mopar family connection street creds! Congrats, nice ride.

That's all true, but... The new front suspension was holding up GM 4 cyl or perhaps a 4.3 V6 and half of a mini truck. He's working to make an S10 front suspension hold up the V8 and vintage Dodge. Probably going to need something stronger up front if you don't want it riding really low. Many SBC S10 conversions have been done so I am sure the right coil spring part #s are well established by the GM small truck enthusiast crowd.

Amen Brother! I find it best to tread lightly among those who adulterate the heavenly beverage with anything other than whiskey. Heathens I tell ya, can't trust em' one bit . Don't even get me started about ketchup on hot dogs...

Some of them are a little shady too....?

TSM MFG is a good place to look.

The ZJ Grand Cherokee is the same width and bolt pattern but most are D35; the 8.25 is simply a better unit. ZJs have coil spring rears so there's a little bit more cutting off unnecessary bracketry. XJs are also typically more plentiful in wrecking yards. I would only consider using a Grand Cherokee rear end if one with the right gear ratio presented itself for free or nearly so. 2 or 4 wheel drive doesn't matter.

Redline MTL/MTG are awesome but as you say, the price can be a bummer for some. Pennzoil Synchromesh is a great option at only $10 a QT if price is an issue.

The XJ Cherokee 8.25 is definitely a good swap candidate, with the later 29 spline axles being the very best. That's what I run in my truck; 29 spline 8.25 with 3.55s. Be aware some XJs were equipped with Dana 35 rear axles vice the stronger Chrysler. The D35 is considered wimpy by Jeep guys but I believe it would be more than fine in a flathead Mopar. Both YJ and TJ Jeeps use rear axles the same width and bolt pattern as the XJ Cherokee so they will also work. I have seen people literally give away Wrangler D35 rear ends for free. Less common, but another great rear end that is the right width and wheel bolt pattern is the Ford 9" from a 71-73 Mustang.

Anyone tried one of those new reproduction universal 1 bbl carbs? I think they are made off-shore (Brazil?) and marketed under the "Daytona" name among others. I have seen one that looks like a Holley 1904 and another that seems to be a Zenith style. They both have an externally adjustable main jet which is sort of a nice feature.

This is really good advice. Sometimes the appliances and windows in them are worth more individually than the asking price so you end up with positive cash flow (not counting your labor!) I saw a 48-50 Ford F5 COE cab dropped on a Ford motorhome chassis at Hot August Nights a couple years ago. It was a super clean swap and the guy said it was reasonably easy. He ditched the original engine for a souped up Y block and had it lowered down to a hot rod stance. He used it to carry his little Model A roadster to car shows. Very cool. Lots of 70's motorhomes were Mopar based so there might be some good heavy duty drive train stock just sitting around in local fields and backyards unmolested.

I have used quite a bit of that Corroseal in harsh marine environments - it's good stuff. Seemed to work better than the similar Ospho product. It will last a surprisingly long time without top coating, but priming and painting over it gives better results as expected.