Old CWO

I like those vinyl/plastic leaf spring liners with the lip and use them whenever I am restoring a leaf pack. If keeping the original look isn't mandatory I will simply remove the original clamps and install new full wrap clamps. It's much easier.

I totally agree with this. A fully gone through stock steering and suspension is plenty fine for a classic pickup truck. Medium and heavy duty trucks to this day use leaf springs and beam axles up front and log millions of trouble free miles. For those seeking power steering there is now an under dash universal electric hot rod unit on the market. It looks like it might be great for B and C trucks with 12v conversions. I have only seen them online and in magazines but am curious.

You can take that to the bank! Let's not even get started on how long your junk is in "paint prison;" body shops and engine machine shops always seem to have more work than they can handle.

Nice truck! Aside from wheel color it could be my truck's twin!

I am also running 215/85R16 modern tires on the original wheels. Looks and works great and the taller tires do kill a little top end RPM when cruising. I happen to really like the tall/skinny profile for classic trucks but also dig the big & little style. When I was a youngster there were a lot of pickups rocking stock front wheels with street treads and some fatter wheels and mud grips on the back for traction on the farm. ? I don't see any reason why you can't do that on your truck without issue. I have only dealt with Stockton Wheel for custom stuff but I know there are other shops that can widen your wheels for you so it will be exactly what you want. There are two other common truck tire sizes that are basically the same height as the 215/85R16: 245/75R16 and 265/70R16. They just get progressively wider at the sidewall, the 215 is about 8.5", 9.5" for the 245 and the 265 is 10.5". 265/70R16 on 16x7s would look pretty good on the rear with pizza cutters on the front.

I have owned a couple of those engines and aside from some pesky rear main seal leaks, they are basically bulletproof. I love them and think that an EFI L6 in a classic truck is a fantastic idea. There was such a thing as 2WD Cherokees with the AX15 manual and I am pretty sure a Dakota stick shift will bolt up to the Jeep bell as well. There is (was?) a standalone wire harness available to run the EFI marketed towards CJ5/CJ swaps. I would think that is something you could take advantage of. That being said, it's essentially the same effort to swap in a V8 which at the end of the day is a simpler path because of the deeper aftermarket parts and support. I bet you could find a clean running Magnum 5.2 cheaper than a 4.0L. Those hit that 230HP/300TQ range that gives plenty of pep without overpowering the rest of the truck. Something to consider if you're dead set on a swap. There are people who can build these engines and if there isn't one local, you can always crate it up and truck ship it somewhere. Even with the added transport costs it will still probably shake out cheaper and less frustrating than an engine swap. Check with forklift repair places; Chrysler flatheads were in some forklifts and other industrial equipment for a number of years so that might be a lead for you.

. The old school 2 bbl surely keeps the simple/reliable vibe going - works fine and lasts a long time. Nothing to complain about there... Keeping the power a little conservative on an old truck is a wise call; better to be safe than fast. I think a slant or V6 just isn't quite enough gain over the original plant for the effort involved so a 318 should fill the bill nicely. I also see that engine as a "gateway" for other potential future upgrades like AC, power steering, etc. if so inclined. It's cool, I dig it. Maybe the old 228 can live on powering a welder, generator, pump, tractor or something?

It looks like it fits in there very nicely. While I certainly appreciate the flattie, there's nothing wrong with a little more HP/TQ under the hood either. I like your engine choice: not a path of least resistance GM, not a gold plated early hemi and not an over the top rumpity cam'd 440. Simple, reliable and just enough engine for good pep without overpowering the rest of the truck. Small traditional OHV V8s really can be a great compromise of performance, economy and cool factor. Not to mention a good dual exhaust on a Mopar small block just flat out sounds great. Any future plans of EFI or staying tried and true with the carb?

While not original, adding front discs, dual pot MC and seat belts are definitely smart safety investments. I would also include radial tires and 12V/LED lighting right up there as well.

The more I think about it, with the parts you have on hand I might: Use the block with the most wear/taper in the cylinders and punch it big. Egge has pistons and rings in .100 oversize, which would carry the engine up to about 245 CI and make it a tiny bit less undersquare. Based on a desktop dyno type program I have it theoretically would develop around 150 HP and 220 TQ with 8:1 compression and enough fuel/air. At .080 over you're still really close to that, at least in theory (148/215). Those numbers (if realistic) are markedly better than the factory ratings on a fresh 218 or 230. Since there's no additional cost over a stock rebuild and you still have a spare block, I don't see why it isn't worth exploring. As the old saying goes, "there is no replacement for displacement."

Yes that can help, taller tires will kill some highway RPM. 215/85R16s is a good size on these trucks. They have a tall/skinny proportion like vintage bias ply tires and are about 31" tall.

I would put together the better of your two 23" blocks/heads with the 230 rotating assembly (assuming it's good.) You already have it so it's "free" horsepower so to speak. Small gains in HP/TQ are large by percentage in lower powered engines; you can usually tell the difference in performance.

Sounds like my kind of place. Well, except I'm sorta picky about coffee... I don't know what it is, but all the cool "guy" places to hang out seem to be going extinct: traditional auto parts stores, real barber shops, neighborhood bait & tackle, electronics supply stores, hobby shops, etc. I guess we just order it all on the internet cheaper so there's no reason to go in and chew the fat with the local guy anymore.

I worked the counter at a couple of traditional parts stores (with machine shops) when I was a kid. Honestly those jobs had more long term value for me from a technical perspective than any other place I've worked. I learned so much I still use today: pipe and hose sizes and fitting types, how to properly measure bearings and seals with a caliper, parts interchangeability, making custom crimped hydraulic hoses, basic machine shop tasks, fastener sizes and thread pitch by sight, clutch up-sizing, etc. etc. This was just before the lookup computers became common place so I learned to be a catalog commando. Love em. Way more information in the old school catalogs than digital lookup by make and model only. (psst. Look in the back...that's where the good info usually is!)

Well, if I were looking to go automatic this is the path I would pursue: Wilcap flattie to GM adapter GM TH200-4R. It's essentially the same size as a TH350, has good ratios (2.74 1st, .67 OD), and can certainly handle the power range required. You would have to figure out the TV cable, but I don't think that's an insurmountable task. Lots and lots of aftermarket support for that transmission and reasonably easy to find. Deep rear end gears. Like 4.56 or 4.88 depending on tire size.

The Pertronix for 6V positive ground has been fine for me as well. Simple to install and dead reliable so far. After installation I just ran the timing up to max vacuum at idle, backed off a little and locked it down. Starts and runs really smooth. It's not a deal breaker or anything but I do like that it retains a stock appearance as opposed to using a different distributor. In the "old days" I wouldn't be too worried about just keeping the points ignition for a low RPM flattie but it sure seems like any of them you buy now are substandard quality.

Capitol Clutch and Brake in Sacramento can rebuild your pressure plate. They are reputable and prices are not unreasonable. I sent them mine recently for a rebuild and while talking with them we discussed the spring situation. They told me that the standard truck PP has half as many springs as one intended for a forklift. The information was that they could sell a new forklift PP that would fit or simply add the springs into a rebuilt unit if required. He did think it would be pretty stout with all the springs installed. Mine was returned to stock so I can't speak to that but I trust this shop to know what they are talking about. I have to assume there is a similar shop somewhere in the LA basin but I don't have any first hand experience with one.

Well stated. I would add that tire diameter is also an important variable to consider in the mix. As a general rule, the taller the tire the deeper the gearing needed. I have also found that lower power engines (like four bangers or flatheads) seem to have better pep when leaning a little lower rather than a little higher with final drive ratios. If the math comes out for a rear end ratio that is in between what's available, choose the lower (higher numerically) option. I believe if you've got an OD trans don't be afraid to go deep in the rear end. Many people are surprised by how low they can go and keep reasonable highway cruising RPM.

Oh, my mistake. Looked like a 280Z from the angle in the photo. Either way, interesting mashup.

Slant Six in Datsun Z car? Well played sir.

Had a Chevy truck once that previous owner installed an Olds 403. Torquey engine but didn't like to rev; spun mine a little too hard and the bottom half let loose. Years ago I met a guy who dumped an Olds Toronado 455 with transaxle in the back of a Datsun truck. He had no joke a full bucket of rusty nails and random hardware bolted to the front crossmember where the four banger used to live. He claimed it needed the weight up front for steering. It had a tonneau cover hiding the engine and was apparently quite the street sleeper. How about an early Bronco with EFI 4.9L straight six? It looked like the guy notched the firewall darn near a foot to fit that monster in there. Was sort of cool in a dare to be different kind of way.

It's funny you post this, my answer is also Lineman's Pliers. Sometime around 1988 or so I found a nice pair of red handled Japanese made lineman's pliers sitting on the side of the road at the intersection of Jackson Highway and Ione Road in California. Back then that was considered "out in the sticks" so finding them laying there all by themselves in good shape seemed odd. The pliers are still in my toolbox and get used regularly; the cutters are just now starting to get dull.

Langdon's Stovebolt web site has what you are looking for.

I am very happy with a Cherokee rear axle, manual front disc conversion and properly functioning stock steering. Handles, stops, steers just fine and retains that vintage truck feel. Those are cheap, easy and well documented upgrades for the B series trucks that really make a huge difference. The flattie... I love the flattie for how I use my truck as a weekend cruiser/enthusiast toy/Home Depot hauler. Nothing says cool like a straight six flathead under the hood, especially those that are dolled up with dual carbs and such. I would be hard pressed to get rid of mine. I do however find she's under powered when there's any kind of weekday traffic. I am sure one of our Canadian friends is going to chime in shortly and say that a souped up big inch flathead is plenty of power. I will respectfully agree to disagree. My opinion based on my experience is that something the size, weight and shape of our trucks needs at least 200 HP and 275 TQ or so to be a confident daily driver in city traffic. That's not a tall order and there are many ways to get there reliably. I would also posit that any upgrade effort should also include some type of fuel injection and overdrive transmission. I believe those technological improvements are a big reason why modern vehicles are more pleasant to drive. So for the sake of bench racing (and spending other people's money!) here's a recipe: XJ Chrysler 8.25 rear axle with drum brakes and 3.55 gears Disc brake front kit and XJ master cylinder 12v conversion go through the stock steering and suspension, fix everything to like new Radial tires Good running stock or mildly built DODGE 318/360 topped with Holley Sniper EFI Vintage Air NV3550 5 speed from Dakota or NV4500 from Ram 2500 if you're ever going to tow or put big power through it (real trucks have 3 pedals - say no to the auto) Can't live without power brakes? Switch to hanging pedals and put booster/master on the firewall. Also probably facilitates the trans swap and exhaust clearance Can't live without power steering? Axle mounted rack and pinion or one of those whiz-bang universal electra-steer units Would be like driving a Dakota except the chicks will dig it and you didn't have to turn your Dodge truck in a Chevy car..?

I bet this topic ends up getting a lot of discussion! Air conditioning? Vintage Air. S10 chassis: I don't see why you couldn't or wouldn't keep the GM drive train intact once you accept the notion of a non-Mopar power plant. I would only entertain the 4.3 V6 engine. The other original engines aren't even worth considering for this application. SBC does swap into S10s relatively easy so there's that possibility. You will still have to sort through the hanging pedal conversion, steering column integration, radiator, firewall clearance, 12V upgrades, shifter or clutch linkage, etc., etc. I personally wouldn't take the project on without an entire functional S10 to cannibalize; finding and buying all the needed fiddly bits runs up the T&M real quick. Is the S10 swap less work than doing some targeted modern upgrades to the original chassis? I think not necessarily but those going through it right now can perhaps chime in with first hand experience. One thing for sure, any S10 you source is still a decades old truck and will require some refurbishment just like the original Dodge parts. There's no free lunch there. Also you're basically putting the equivalent of an 80s mid size GM car under your truck. Whether that is a net negative or benefit is up for debate. It is for sure more fun to drive a vintage truck to work than some boring hybrid hippy car or generic SUV. Good Luck! Oh, and KEEP YOUR MOPAR MOPAR!?