Andydodge

They are at www.brizbumpers.com ......andyd

Briz Bumpers do repo 37 DeSoto bumpers so I would assume they would do or know of the correct bolts.......sorry haven't got their contact details.......andyd

Yeh, I ended up getting a bellhousing and a pair of exhaust manifolds from a guy in Sydney, Lothar, via ebay, the exhaust manifolds were a front dump and rear dump(not the end dump) and have cut the heat riser from both manifolds effectively giving me a 3 port front dump and 3 port rear dump, with no heat riser then had both manifolds welded up by a local blacksmith(one of the few benefits of living in the sticks!!)....fantastic job, but the bellhousing he sent included the complete hydraulic clutch brackets, slave cylinder, pusrod, etc and was just what I wanted to see, did some checking around thru the Chrysler club and found out about when the hydraulic clutch was introduced here in Oz, plus have obtained a copy of a Royal workshop manual part on the clutch that will help in converting the whole setup over to a pendant pedal arrangement........someday......lol......anyway have just mocked up the 230 bare block on the engine stand with the Edgy head, split exhaust manifolds, Offy twin carb intake with Holden carbys and chromed aircleaners and finned sideplates.........yahoo!!!!!!!.....wheres the vasoline!!!.........lol........regards, andyd

I couple of mths ago I asked whether anyone had heard of the use of a hydraulic clutch on our 6's......don't think I got a reply......lol......I should have looked closer to home as Oz Mopars from 1955 or 6 but certainly from 1957 when the Chrysler Royals were introduced used hydraulic clutches.......seems it corresponded with the introduction of the pendant pedal setup.......so just thought I'd pass on some absolutely useless information for all you guys in the USA & Canada........lol......there ya go......andyd

Bought my 1940 D15 Dodge Sedan in Sept 1971, still have it, 1st Mopar was a 1940 D15 Oz Coupe that I bought in May 1970.....have had about 6 1940 Oz Dodges as parts cars over the yrs, also have had 1948 Chrysler Windsor, 1939 Oz Plymouth Roadster Ute remains, 1970 Oz Valiant 2dr Hardtop, 1968 Oz Dodge Phoenix 4dr Hardtop(US Plymouth Fury), 1973 Oz Valiant Wagon and most recently purchased my 1941 Plymouth P11 Coupe to keep the 40 dodge company in the garage........so since 1970 have had just a passing interest in mopars.......andyd

James, exactly which Chev valves did you use?.....and why?........thanks, andyd

Thats a 37 Chev grille and hood on that coupe, looks like a 37 Chev to me........, btw we got different hood sides on chevs in 1937 here in Oz, but thats a pic of a genuine US 37 Chev coupe for my money.........andyd

Actually its not that big, same wheelbase as the sedans but the timber bed makes it look much larger........I had the remains of a 1939 Plymouth Factory Roadster Ute back in the late 70's, just the cowl, dash,floor,1 door and rear body panels but also a heap of pics taken before it was disassembled by someone else, before I ended up with the remains......that 38 Dodge looks to have the same windscreen & posts that my 39 Plymouth had, basically 35/36 Roadster posts......the Dodge would be a unique car anywhere let alone Texas.........andyd

Woodie, these are from a 230 industrial engine but I would doubt if there was any difference to the car or 201/218 engines......andyd

Woodie, the 230 engine I have has bolts the following size......3/4" head, 1/2" shoulder under head, 1/2" UNC thread, 2 & 27/32" total length from under head to end of thread........hope this helps, andyd

Well it was there.........will repost again tonite...andyd

Woodie, check my answer to you in the parts section of the forum, sent it a couple of days ago, andyd

That guy with the helmet on his head is Mr De Soto........Walter P Chrysler's mate......lol.......actually a Spanish Conquistador from the 16th century......upmarket mopars........andyd

Fred, remember to be careful with the Temp guage.......the actual guage will only unbolt from the back on the instrument housing with the 2 screws......the temp "wire" with the wire coiled around it does NOT come off the guage.......you unbolt the sender unit that bolts into the engine by placing a larger open mouth spanner on the engine block fitting and gently use an open mouth spanner on the fitting that holds the temp wire into the block.......use plenty of spray WD40 to lubricate the fitting as you don't want the nut head to jam against the temp sender and break the wire.....not good if that happens.....andyd

Dodgeb4ya........is this correct?.......you install the cam gearless oil pump in the engine then drive the pump with a long screw driver blade inserted thru the dissy hole on the other side of the block........the pump then pumps oil thru the engine....clever.......andyd

I always thought that with 46-48 mopars here in Oz, that if your car had the front fenders that flowed into the front guards then it was an import......the Oz built cars having the shorter front guards.....and that fluid drive was an import only thing but again am not an expert on the post war cars......never noticed a hood/bonnet difference tho..........to be honest as my interest was 1940 Dodges the post war cars weren't my expertise.......but nice to see tho'......andyd

Nah, never surfaced..........looks like we still have to deal with 'ol Joe McCarthy's decendants......this was unbelievable.........I still shake my head in disbelieve...........what a bloody fool.........Andy Douglas

Rocker & Rob........just checked my Oz Chrysler 1946-53 Plymouth,Dodge & DeSoto Service Manual and it lists the 1946-48 Dodge D25 with Vehicle Numbers as follows....9,720,361 to 9,752,791 and then 9,850,446 to 9,858,536.........this is from a chrysler Australia book, copyright 1954, doesn't say where the number may be on the car, if in fact it even is........so dunno if this helps......andyd

To reattach the drums onto the hub, just use some countersunk allen screws.......when I adapted vented disc brakes onto the mid 50's plymouth rear brake hubs I had the hubs machined a few thou to slip inside the disc "hat" and then drilled between the wheel studs and put a couple of the allen screws thru into the hub......in my case the original large axle nut then just held a disc brake instaed of a brake drum onto the axle but the procedure is the same..........andyd

So you guys are running discs at the front with the stock drum brakes on the stock diff and no brake booster?.....I would have thought that the discs needed a booster for efficient operation.......andyd

Can you guys give me some more info regarding the brake setup you are using?........what type of front & rear brakes?, the master cylinder is a late model(mustang?)type and do you use a power booster........if so where is it mounted?.......thanks andyd

As far as I know these are called roll pins and should be available at any good engineering supplies shop.......having said that, I'm gunna be in the market for some myself when the 40 Ford handles I have ordered arrive.......lol.......thanks for the reminder, Don.........andyd

Mike, gidday from Oz.......original rims would have been 15 x 4 or 4.5"........I have Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies 15 x6 & 15 x 7 on my 41 Plymouth Coupe with the standard backspacing they come with, think its 3 & 3.5", and they fit fine, have also taken out 1 coil and 2" blocks on the rear, sits fine for everyday driving with the Smoothies.......hope this helps, regards, andyd

Pete, had you thought about using a front dump manifold?.......cut the rear dump from your heat riser and cut the front dump manifold from its heat riser and voila!!....a pair of 3 port cast iron exhaust manifolds......thats what I'll probably aim for.........andyd

Austria?????.........thats where Crocodile Dundee came from isn't it.........lol.......oops............nah thats where I'm from....... sunny Sth Grafton NSW Austria...Australia...lol