Andydodge

Rich & Tim, thanks for the replys, have spoken to an "expert" in Oz and he maintains that there are at least 2 maybe 3 different diameters in the camber bush, unfortunately he is 600kms away from me and can only say to send the knuckles to him..........so......I have had the bushes machined to fit the knuckles I have.......now all I need are 25hr days to assemble the front end again.......thanks, andyd

I will support David's comments.........I have purchased a full set of valves, springs,oil pump & cam bearings from Turkey, sent promptly, packed well, all are USA boxed & made parts.......definately worth considering........I am in Australia........its a small world........regards, Andyd

Doesn't anybody know whether the upper outer bushes or camber bushes are/were available in different diameters?...........anybody?.........lol.............andyd

Rich, do you know whether the Desoto/Chrysler bushes are any larger?........I'm in Oz and the vast majority of cars here are Plymouth/Dodge, some Desotos but all the knuckles that I have are the same length, etc except for the two that came off the car which have the slightly larger eye hole........its very perplexing?.......thanks, andyd

Am in the process of putting replacement steering knuckle supports on both sides of the 41 plymouth, the originals were bent/worn. Have just found that the upper outer pin bushing that is normally a tight press fit into the upper eye of the knuckle support won't fit....I have the camber lock bolts removed so the bush should just press in, then you'd then fit the lock bolts to stop the camber bush falling out but the hole in the upper eye of the knuckle support is about 1/16th I.D. too small........has anyone found that there are 2 different size O.D. top outer pin bushings?........I have tried to insert a wedge into the slotted top eye of the knuckle and pry it apart but there is no way it can be opened up enough........can anybody help here?.......I have 2 sets of these upper bushes and both sets are the same size and won't fit into the knuckle eye...........I have 3 pair of good knuckle supports and all are the same, too small an eye, including a NOS pair which was to go on the car........the only knuckles that allow the bush to fit is the worn/bent pair.......help.........lol....andyd

Thats a strange one, 7 passenger but the extra length looks like its in the front as they look like 2dr sedan front doors, and with 6 wheel equipe.........most unusual....andyd

Probably the one good thing about that 53 Buick that Don wrecked was that it wasn't really a good one.......why it probably didn't have more than 2 drs & only a fabric roof.......Sky....Sky.....something like that......lol.......we've all done similar things when we was young & silly........thank god we're still silly.........lol...........andyd

The 1941 Pymouth Coupe is due for rego so I thought I'd better recheck the front end..........what a mess......lots of wear in both the kingpins/steering knuckles, the Oz pass side knuckle had a bend at the top that wasn't stock(lol, I knew it was there but thought that it might straighten itself, maybe......lol.....) so I pulled the front end apart.........the king pins appear to be relatively new, but the uprights king pin boss where the pin fits thru instead of a tight fit is oval in shape so have replaced it with a good spare, replaced incorrect kingpin lock pins with the correct ones, also found the upper outer pin where it threads into the actual arm on one side was missing most of its thread, so replaced it with another nice tight, good threaded arm..........my question/s is I have NOS pins and bushes for the outer upper & lower shafts but have always found it very hard to tell when comparing them to old items exactly which is which. What I find generally is that when they are completely RS then its easy to see the wear, but is there any way to measure these pin threads for wear?.......thanks.......andy(who is not as nimble as he used to be)d

Whilst I do not doubt any of the comments, statements etc regarding Mr Langdon and his "customer contact" skills, in the defence of his HEI, I have installed one on my 12 volt 1941 Plymouth Coupe and it runs perfectly, no overheating, idles at 600, runs fine.......so I may have got a good one..........who knows.......lol...........andyd

That squealing could be the clutch throwout bearing, does it stop when you put the clutch pedal in?........if so then while doing the throwout bearing you may as well do the clutch itself unless it appears in good shape, as you are in the same area....andyd

To be honest, I think its now wheel alignment time.........I don't know that any "ballpark" figures will help......but good luck, andyd

Jerry, no matter what brand of windscreen rubber is used they all should have a windscreen sealer inserted between the glass & rubber and the glass and body shell......without any sealer then you should expect it to leak.........buy some sealer in a large caulking tube with the plastic pointy thing, stick the tube in a caulking gun and do the job yourself.........no more leaks.......andyd

As Rodney says, the large filler tube has a rubber piece halfway along its length to allow for movement, the little tube from the tank also has a small rubber tube that allows it to connect to another piec of metal tube that reconnects to the upper large metal filler tube just b4/underneath the fender grommet, when you undo the gas cap if you look closely you can see the opening for the little tube inside the large tube near its top....and the original metal straps to hold the tank in have a weird turnbuckle/eye(?) bolt at one end of each strap.......at least this is what my Oz 1940 Dodge(Plymouth) had/has..........andyd

Get the biggest, strongest puller you can afford, remove the cotter pin on the end of the axle, then loosen the large nut about 2-3 threads, enough to still allow axle threads to be showing past the outside end of the nut, bolt the LARGE PULLER that you can barely carry onto the brake drum, tighten the centre bolt hard onto the protruding end of the axle(NOT onto the loosened nut) then hit the outer end of the tightened centre bolt with the biggest hammer you can swing.........then tighten the centre bolt a bit more..........another big wack with the big hammer, tighten the centre bolt again, then hopefully the next big wack with the hammer will jolt the drum loose......if not.........continue with the tightening/wacking proceedure.........good luck........lol.........andyd

Dutch...is the radiator from your wagon?.......if so then just get a modern radiator made up.........easy fixed....andyd

Dutch.......what type of car is it?........a good modern 2-3 row core in the size of the original mopar radiator will cool the old side valve six, without a problem, I have a late model 3 row radiator with custom made top & bottom tanks in my 1940 Dodge and it cools the 318 V8 fine........I think your radiator shop needs to be changed......find another shop.....lol.......andyd

Anthony, nice looking Poly, I was hoping to see an Hydraulic Clutch setup on a side valve 6 tho'.........lol.....the Poly in my 40 Dodge uses the old cast iron Auto, its the side valve 6 in the 41 Plymouth Coupe that I was thinking about the hydraulic clutch for.......andyd

If you can get Molasses, it makes a great rust and paint remover, tho' its not recommended using the old molasses on a piece of toast.........lol.........andyd

Thats a pic of the handbrake mechanism that hangs on the rear of the gearbox.......its exactly the same as that used up to the late 50's.....whats the problem?(apart from the stuffed seal and oil soaked brake shoes).......it appears to be basically all there, I think, tho the actual handbrake cable doesn't appear to be there.......andyd

Thomba, you have the same problem I have........you ain't in the States, so it is tough when you need to find something like a rear end, at least here in Australia there are a few alternatives, if someone offers you a complete rear end from a 1988-1997 Aussie Ford Falcon Wagon, take it, as they bolt straight in to the 1940-48 Plymouth, but this is probably not gunna happen in Germany........so apart from importing another rear end as suggested by other posts have you checked other European cars, ie, Volvos use a live axle diff, tho' they are GM stud pattern, what about 60/70's Ford Granada rear ends?....I'd check around, btw why do you need to replace the whole rear end anyway?.........it might be easier to repair whats there.......assuming that whats there is there.........lol..........regards, andyd

There is nothing wrong with using a resleeved master cylinder, as previously mentioned the stainless or brass sleeves will outlast an original cast iron bore and not corode in the process also, but I have a question about the ECI dual circuit master cylinder, it may bolt in but is the bore/stroke suitable for the drum brakes that our cars mostly run?......if you have fitted discs brakes on the front or all round then the dual circuit ECI M/c is required but I have some doubts about using one on stock drum brakes......you maybe better to find a mid 60's dual circuit DRUM brake master cylinder as it should have a more suitable bore........just my 2cents worth, I have had 4 wheel discs on my 40 Dodge since about 1978........andyd

Lee........I promise not to confuse them........lol.......$125.00 the set!!!!!!!.........did you pull wings off butterflies as a kid?.........lol........and heres me offering to help you with your Ute..........hrumph!!.......lol........now if I was a cynical sod I'd swear that you didn't think my offer was genuine.......lol..........did you check whether the seller had a brother with another set of wheels?.....lol........andyd

Tom, now thats a neat idea, this is what makes this such a great forum, many thanks for that pearl of wisdom......andyd

Easy........go to my shop website, www.scaleautomobilia.com.au and click on the "About Us" webpage, theres a pic of both my cars........and thanks for the reply.........regards, andyd

Lee, unfortunately I have some bad news.........as you wish to put them on your Oz ute, you will have to have them aclimatised to the correct stress's that Oz ute has endured..........therefore you must place them in a large box and send them to me here in Australia.........I will ensure that they get the correct aclimatisation process by installing them on my car........purely to assist their eventual installation on your car.........oh, and you'd better get some new hubcaps and send them as well..........we certainly wouldn't want those old pitted ones on show now would we.......especially here in Oz........anyway I trust this will assist you in your wire wheel endeavours........lol..........your friend.....lol...........andyd ........gee I'm such a great guy for offering to help Lee......lol.........andyd