Andydodge

Fred.........I found my old 1941 Plymouth U bolts, they are identical to the ones that were on my 1940 Oz Dodge(Plymouth chassis)......and I would be 99.9% certain they are what you have.......the size is as follows.....total U bolt length from top of "U" to end of thread is 8", width inside U bolt is 2 & 7/8th" and the U bolt thickness is 1/2" with the thread size being 1/2"UNF.......these U bolts I have are factory flattened where they go around the axle tube side and top.......which I would think is what yours are.....hope this helps...............andyd

I'm gunna tell, I'm gunna tell....................Freddie's makin' a hotrod............Freddies' makin' a hotrod...........lol....................you hooligan,you!!!..........lol..............good to see.............andyd

Fred, is this because you are ordering longer "U" bolts?........andyd

I have seen pics of a few sidevalve Ford V8's with modified exhaust tracts so the exhaust comes out in a more direct, less restrictive way........these have been drag or Bonneville engines......... but apart from them I'd think its was the dogs balls reason....because he can........andyd

Must be something about 1940 Dodges..........I've had mine since 1971...........andyd

Or buy a MOPAR V8 housing that has the indent in it to hold the thermostat..........and get a chrome housing because they make the car go FASTER......andyd

Rob, nice job on the wiring.......re the push button solenoid, I have seen them over the yrs, thought that they were a factory installation but not sure, but they do make it easy to start the car when doing engine bay work, just keep the ignition key on and the button is quite useful.........andyd

Maybe if you shrank the shrunk.........eerrr........am gunna get my meds now............lol........btw all ships sail upside down down here in oz........oopps.....just dropped a pill.......lol...........andyd

Just think what a fine time we'd all be having if mother mopar had installed the engine water tubes using the tapered axle principle..........lol........what a combination.......lol.........yep, I'd do as suggested.....attack the other brake drum now that you have positive vibes working for you.........lol........good luck!.......andyd

Fred.........make them yourself outa 2" square tube, they overhang each side of the spring 1/8"..........which is buggar all.......lol.....personally I would NOT go more than 3" high blocks, if you want it lower, then I'd either get new, flatter/lowered springs or reverse the eye in the rear of the main leaf which will get you another 1" lower........andyd

Methinks that some people have fogot to take their medication today...........lol........thanks, makes me laugh, is good..........andyd

Also as the V8 housing is alloy, the weight reduction will make the car go faster..............lol.........jeese I'm a wanker......lol..........still gota look for the positives....lol.....andyd

Checkout the thermostat housing for a small block mopar V8, no bypass hole/fitting cast into it, same bolt pattern as the mopar six, I've just got one thats all shiney chrome to use on the Edgy Finned head, and theres enough room for the thermostat to fit hanging down into the head and the housing has a recess to locate the thermostat also........I paid about $20.00 Australian here in Oz but you'd get it in the US for 10 bucks or less.......try your local speed shop.......andyd

Bob..........think the doors weigh at least as much as a piece of rope and they are as long as a henway..........lol......or something like that.......I've got to replace the hinge pins etc in my 41 Coupes Oz drivers door.......am not looking forward to it.........lol..............let me know what you thing they weigh when you do it and I'll start excercising...........lol.........good luck......andyd

Fred, I just went and measured both my 1940 Australian Dodge(Plymouth chassis and body shell, etc) and 1941 Plymouth (Sth African build BUT is USA everything) and they BOTH use 1 & 3/4" wide springs, the 41 Coupe has 2" lowering blocks that a friend made out of 2" square tube, about 6" long with the tube ends blocked off.....works fine.......I would have made these myself but my mate beat me to it......lol........the tube should only cost a few marks........lol........andyd

My 1941 P11 Coupe arrived at my door with no oil filter and when you consider that this car had been "restored" about 5-10 yrs ago you have to wonder what "restored" means, lol..........it has a beehive filter on it now and regular oil changes.........andyd

Rob.........why not rewire your ignition switch to how it was before you started the rewireing.......as it seems to be the only change as you mentioned.......and see what happens........andyd

Head nuts would have to be hi tensile, I have never seen or heard of acorn nuts in anything but a mild steel......but there are acorn nut covers which allow you to use the correct head nuts or bolts and just slip the chromed acron covers on the nut/bolt heads..........a much better idea......andyd

Fred, nice installation but I would also point out how close the fuel line is the the exhaust manifold, apart from any potential leakage problem from the fuel filter above I would think that the heated fuel would not be a good thing.......andyd

Don, do you remember exactly what chev valves you used?.........lol........I, like Bobacuda would also be interested in what Chev valves fit, ie a part number or listing would be a big help.......thanks, andyd

Rob, don't forget to repaint the back of the dash a light colour if you get a chance and a light in there is a good idea.........looks great tho, andyd

There are 3 different exhaust manifolds that I am aware of for the 23" engine, front dump with the outlet at # 3, mid-rear dump with the outlet between #5 & 6 and end dump with the outlet just past # 6 cylinder.........there maybe more but these are the 3 that I've seen...........as for what years they are off....who knows......lol.....tho' the 41 Plymouth I have uses an example of the mid-rear dump manifold & its factory stock........trust this helps a bit..........andyd

If your not worried about originality spraypaint the rear side of the dash white or grey to help show up whats there later........also doesn't help to wire in an under dash light from the start or ignition circuit or somewhere that would be expected to have power if your lights go out.........also if you decide to update/change the wiring photo copy the original wiring harness and redo the new/extra wires onto the photocopied sheet then get it laminated and kept with the car or workshop manual..........regards, andyd

Jim, that guy that asked whether you wanted both sides plated knows his stuff......at least get him to polish the rear of the bumper then see if he'll just nickle/chrome the rear, BUT if at all possible always get copper/nickle/chrome on the front and the edges after having the areas to be plated polished........if you check bumpers that have been chromed, look on the rear or inside of the bumper, if it hasn't been polished but still chromed you can bet that the plating will start to lift as the rough unpolished metal doesn't allow the plating to adhere very well, once it starts to lift there then it will allow moisture under the plating and eventually make its way to the front.........its the copper plate that gives a nice smooth strat to the process, also provides a moisture proof surface, the nickle gives it its nice shiney surface and chromium the yummy blue sparkelly tint............chrome.....love chrome......chrome.........andyd, btw what ever you have make sure to put a good heavy coat of wax/polish on the back of the bumpers also.........andyd

Fred, I would think that the 39 and 40 Dodges would have the same or very similar front springs.....I have a 1940 Dodge, while I have not physically compared the 39 & 40 springs I have looked at a few of these front ends and unless some ones says they are different then I'd be prepared to consider them very close to each other....... and I have installed the front springs from a 1956 Ford 4dr sedan in my 1940 Dodge 4 dr Sedan, they were a little thicker and I cut 3/4 off one coil to lower the car...............dunno if this helps....andyd