Andydodge

Tim, nope the XJ6 front and rear suspensions are rubber mounted, the front end is unequal length upper & lower A arms, with coil springs and shocks, the rack & pinion is rear mounted onto the jag crossmember, which bolts onto the frame using rubber mounts. The rear suspension is independant via 4 coilover shocks, 2 on each side with a lower arm and the half shafts on each side doing double duty as the upper arms, a link goes forward to locate the lower arm, the whole lot is in a "cage" that unbolts from the Jag body shell and is rubber mounted.....andyd.

A mate here in Oz has just put an XJ6 front end under his 40 Ford Coupe, actaully a fairly straightforward swap BUT check the track of the Jag front end first against the Dodge as my mate is having problems getting wheels and tyres to fit under his Ford fenders as the Jag is quite wide and it looks like he is gunna have to have special offset front rims........but does your Dodge have the beam axle or independant front end?.....if beam axle then its a easy do, if independant then a LOT more work........andyd

Steve, what I found with mine is that I can literally be standing outside the car, lean in and turn the key(its been converted to 12volts and has a later key ignition) and it starts virtually straight away without me even fiddling with the choke/accelerator pedal......definately worth the money.........andyd

Fred, the 25" block will fit into the plymouth as far as I can work out by moving the radiator forward, the mounts are the same, just further forward.......but you mention the hop up bits you want......I have a 23" 201 cube engine in my 1941 P11 and have a 23' 230 cube engine I'm going to bolt in its place.....I have an Edgy Finned head, Offy twin carb intake and Tom Langdon makes the cast iron "Fenton" headers........all for the 23" engine.......I would have stuck a 25" 250 cube engine in it but as its RHD the longer engine hits the steering box on the oil pump, if your car is still left hand drive you won't have that problem and the Fenton headers will clear the steering also.......hop up parts are easier to find i think for the 23" engine also......andyd

Thanks Tim & Phil, I was hoping someone would say .......yep its a 2 minute job, pins are 5cents and hinges 10 cents...........looks like i need to find a bigger supply of valium........lol.........buggar!..............lol........thanks, andyd

My RHD P11 Coupe drivers side(US passenger side) door upper and lower hinge is in need of some repair as both show a lot of wear and movement resulting in the door dropping about 1/4-3/8". From what I understand from the various workshop manuals I have the door hinges are the same from 1940 thru to 1948. Can anyone confirm if this is so, my car being a US style body shell it has the internal hinges with 3 phillips head screws on the pillar and one more screw way inside the door hinge pocket for each hinge. This is completely different to the Australian cars as they have the 1939 style external hinges thru to 1948 and my 41 Coupe is the only 40-48 US style mopar I have access to to..........Andy Bernbaum has door hinge pins listed in both his paper and web catalogs.....has anyone replaced them?..........any advice?......lol.........valium?.........andyd

I've been dealing with Andy Bernbaum for over 20 yrs and have always found him o/k to deal with and would & have recommended him to others looking for Mopar parts. I know that its a bit of a pain in the bum for some dealers to ship outside the US(I'm in Australia) but he has been o/k in all my dealings.........thats not to say others haven't had problems but he has been fine fo me and I've probably made about 15-20 orders overs the yrs......maybe its because my name's Andy also.......lol.........andyd

I also was interested in these tyres but they are not listed by Sumitomo in Australia, but I think they may have been available thru the Diamond Back tyre cO as they list a Sumitomo in the US catalog I have but again not available here in Oz.....try the Diamond Back co in the states.

Steve, thanks for the info & link, andyd

Steve, my 41 Plymouth has been converted to 12 volts but uses a 12v generator and the setup uses the older wide fan belt.......is your setup the older wide belt or modern narrow belt?........thanks, andyd

Get a clear red toothbrush and cut a piece of the handle down to fit in the hole.

Where do you get the one piece gaskets?........I'd think they would have to be an improvement........where do they come from?.......andyd

Thanks for the info guys.........btw I mentioned that the best way to clean tyres was to get the wife to do them...........wack!............she has no sense of humour my wife.....wack!........yes dear, no dear, three bags full dear.....wack!........andyd

Guys, we don't have either of those products here in Oz, but I was wondering what exactly they are so I can chase up a comparable product here......the Westleys is a spray bleach? and the SOS is a powder?.......can some one advise me what these actually are........lol......thanks, andyd

Fred, when you start to undo the nuts holding the instrument cluster onto the dash, make sure to take note of what washers and small spacers are there as there might be some cup spacers and other weird little brackets etc that will make things difficult if you don't get them back in the right spot.......and yep the ability to stand on your head helps.......lol.........andyd

48Chrasler......had to laugh.......thats the exact same colour as my 41 P11 coupe, even down to the chrome wheels I have just bought to put on it.......nice car.......andyd

I saw it yesterday on ebay, have offered my left gonad but haven't heard back from the seller...........lol.......but I was also wondering about some things on the car, not trying to be a nitpicker but there is a few bolts coming thru the firewall in the engine bay pics that show lovely rusted ends, how hard would it have been to get some chromed dome nuts to cover these..... just have to wonder what the car is really like......but is does look nice......andyd

I bought my S10 T5 gearbox from Jerry Turner last year on the recomendation of a guy here in Oz and I couldn't have been more happier. I spoke to Jerry a couple of times over the phone and he was more than helpful, gave a fair price and good service and shipped the gearbox to the depot in Long Beach quickly............he said he was coming over here this year again, buggar that it his swansong......a pox on the scrappers..............andyd.

I have been bringing in both model kits for my shop and car parts for me for the past 15 yrs or so, the US Post Office is the cheapest by a long way, also just as quick as any other stated service, the Edgy Finned Head I got took 4 working days from west coast USA to east coast Australia, tracable all the way via the Post Office computer tracking, cost was about $100.00US........I wouldn't use any other service, andyd

Traindriva, gidday, I'm in sunny Sth Grafton NSW, I have a 1940 Dodge Sedan & 1941 Plymouth Coupe, your P15 would have been made by TJ Richards in Adelaide SA, as far as I know the 96 number is the overall 1946-48 P15 serial number that was allocated by either Nth America or Canada, think it would have been Canada, the other number, 2463 is more than likely the TJ Richards body or assembly number. Your car should have a 25" long engine, known in Oz as a "Kew", measure the length of the cylinder head, it should be 25"......I've had my dodge since 1971, the Plymouth since 2007.......theres pics of both on my shop website "About Us" page at www.scaleautomobilia.com.au call me there if you need info re parts etc......regards, Andy Douglas

Fred, there are a few ways you can go to drop the mopar front end.......cut 1/2 to one coil off the coil springs will lower the car around 2", tho' the ride will be a bit firmer, another way is to get new lower coil springs made up, another way is to relocate the actual coil spring pocket on the lower A arm from the upper side to the lower side of the A arm, this will drop the front end maybe 1.5 inches, another way would be to use the Fatman spindles which lower the car a couple of inches, also smaller diameter tyres, ie 15 or 14" will drop the car.........and like I did, the weight of a V8 also helped to lower it some........I intend to get some proper lowered coils made up once I get a few things sorted but will wait till the 15" rims & tyres are on and see what it looks like then........andyd

On my rodded 1940 Dodge sedan I've got 14" wheels, mid 50's Ford front coils instead of the original Dodge coils and a Poly V8 that together have dropped it a couple of inches, the rear has a later diff with 1" blocks & 15" rims....... the 1941 Plymouth Coupe has had 3/4's of one coil off the front which has dropped it 2" and has 2" blocks on the rear and it is getting 15 x6/7" rims all round in the next few weeks to drop it another inch at least(its running 6.00 x 16 tyres at present).......andyd

David, the problem is getting glass from that guy you mention in the USA to Australia.......without breaking it.......Rockerbilly, where are you again?.......email your phone number.......andyd

The Rat Rod term came from the coining of the Rat Bike terminology by Easyriders magazine back in the early 70's, they used to have a featured "Rat Bike" each month as a counterpoint to the increasingly overdone show bikes that were coming into vogue. As for the term "Rat Rod", it basically was the same response to the overdone show/billet/power parked hotrods of the mid 80's onwards.......however has been taken to the utter extreme as some sort of end goal......personally I refer to them as Crap Rods........pieces of junk that give real street/hot rods a bad name........Oh and that rubbish that "back in the day" they were all primered is more crap, sure there might have been UNFINISHED cars running around with primer and such still getting built but thats not how the owners wanted them to stay, if they had a choice in the matter. ........my Oz 3 cents worth......AndyD....who has a shiney,painted,chromed,upholstered........HOTROD.......not CRAP ROD.......end of soapbox rant.

Maybe its installed in your car by Walter P Chrysler hisself.........or its gold plated..........either way I'll stick with my new rotor pump...........this one on ebays got a nice shiney box tho'......andyd