Conn47D24

Can anyone identify this small part?? I thought it was for front flex brake hoses. However I have both on the car , and those are wider.

Ok, I ordered new springs. Correct for 11" brakes. Problem solves, front done, adjusted, bearings packed and drums on! Next, change out the rear spring.

Looks like I'm on hold for a few days. It seems to me I may have the wrong Springs. They seem too tight. Getting them on was a bear. This could be why the shoes are flexiNG on adjustment attempts. I ordered new ones and will inspect and change them then. Afraid if I dismantle now the fluid will leak out and I won't have new Springs handy. repeat you posted. Clay

Will do. Thank you

Hi Don, drums are off. Going out soon to have another go at it. Hard to see under shoe. Do these thread in and out or just spin under spring pressure?

Need help please with front brakes. Have read many many posts here but none specific to this... All new shoes, springs , etc. Started adjustment using the Miller Tool. While moving the minor adjusting nut ( spring loaded one on outside of plate) rather than sliding the shoes in and out it is pushing and twisting the shoes. Perhaps I've turned these all too far in one direction ? Can this be done or do they just spin? Rear brake job was smooth, tool was easy to learn and use. This issue is unrelated to the tool but has me stuck. What am I up against here folks?? Thanks in advance for any and all. Clay

1946-48 Trunk Light Installation Sheet View File Bored on a snowy day. Organizing years of parts and found this to share. Trunk light sheet from NOS box. Mopar # 1232609 ( same as # 1244922 ) Submitter Conn47D24 Submitted 02/09/2017 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates

Hand Brake Signal Installation Intructions View File Seems that this switch is readily available, however the complete accessory package is rarer and more expensive. here are the instructions should you have , or find just the switch. Good luck Conn47D24 D24 Hand Brake signal switch Instructions02032017.pdf Submitter Conn47D24 Submitted 02/07/2017 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates

My plan now is to try and match the red on my hubcaps best I can. Rich, good call on the pin striping paint.

Thanks all. Perhaps an option, or Street cult addition. Lol.

Does anyone know the correct color red paint for the Fluid Drive script logo on the D24 rear bumper. Also used to accent the tail lights, and rims. Thanks in advance. Clay

Welcome, yes rear drum are youreally first challenge. Rent the puller and take your time.

Happy new year!

Hummm More to consider. Thanks to everyone as usual

Hi Rich, Moving along. front, rear axel done. Brake and fuel lines in. brake hardware installed. bleeding brakes next, then will follow your lead adjusting. picked up a MT19 ( of sorts) on ebay. Block in shop for rebuild . only 4 inches of water tube left to remove . That's been fun :-( Merry Christmas Clay

Steel it is! After all the work I want to enjoy the ride. and have us safe also. Thanks guys!

Rich, that site has been VERY helpful to me. gives "same as" part numbers that the original parts book can't .

Thank you very much guys! I have the 16" rims on my 47 The tires then were bias ply ? I'very been advised that steel radials handle much better. Any thoughts on the best way to go?

Please advise. What was the original equipment tire manufacturer for the D24 ? Firestone , Goodyear , BFGoodrich ??? Searching the forum has not been clear. Thank you all.

Good morning all, Please advise on the proper placement of brake and fuel lines for my D24 Club Coupe. The original lines were removed and sent out to In-Line Tube years ago for new replacement copies. I have the front of the car, and the rear end brake lines installed. Now I am stuck on the lines running from the master cylinder to the rear bracket ( that joins the flex hose). And also the fuel line from the front driver wheel well area to the rear fuel tank. Are these run on the sides of the frame, or top ? Does the brake line run THROUGH the frame at the middle cross member? it's looking good till now and I want to get it correct and safe. Photos would be great PLEASE. Thank you in advance. Clay

Still waiting on measurements of the bore. I agree the lower section around the hole is rougher. Never gets easy Huh ? Clay

Has anyone seen this before ? 1948 flathead D24 block. Seems to be a very round hole at the base of the cylinder wall. Below the stroke line. The NON - valve side of the block. I have two other blocks without this. The pistons came out in one piece, no failure there. No other damage to the walls as seen. Design change ? Part of oiling or PVC system ? Or did someone drill a hole ??? Considering purchasing this block. My shop guy said he can sleave it. But if it's a failure should we sleave all six? Thoughts please, Photos of others like it? Thanks in advance. Clay

This came in handy working on the differential. Especially torqueing to 170 lbs !