Conn47D24
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Everything posted by Conn47D24
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While compiling a list of engine parts I see in the parts book there are 3 types of springs. Standard, heavy and light. What circumstances would require light or heavy ? Old engine, new, altitude, heat or cold extremes ??
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PA, yes P20 is what it seems for sure. Already disappointed that it's not a Dodge, now a 218 and not a 230. Yes, my machine shop friend is not too worried about it. Crank and cam look good so on to gathering parts. Thanks for input. Clay
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New engine serial number photos. Clean up the block a bit more. Still struggling with the make and model / year.
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Yes Zen , this engine certainly could have slept around! :-) Still working on cleaning up that number and see if I can get a clearer look. Cleaned and blasted the head today. There is a spot that was grinded and new numbers stamps in. Also I found a small spot on the block with a series of numbers stamped in . Right along the top edge, much smaller than the engine number area. none of the numbers match. What parts am I going to have trouble matching since I don't know what it is? The pistons are .60 and the block was sleaved. Looks like we can hone it and stay the same size. One step at a time. Thanks ! Clay
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Good stuff guys ! I'll try to clean off more paint and crud for a better photo. Why would they over stamp the #'s ? Thank you.
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Good stuff guys ! I'll try to clean off more paint and crud for a better photo. Why would they over stamp the #'s ? Thank you.
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Has anyone seen this before ? My 47 Club Coupe Engine was replaced with a crated rebuilt mid-1970's. Not my original engine. So , photos here show the block. I can not make out what the full number is. Sure looks like it was stamped over??? Was that a practice of rebuilding shops? It's a 23" head so 218-230 CI I'd really like to know what I have here so I get correct parts on my re-build. Any thoughts? Clay
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ZM, Well, its been sitting forty years and I'm doing everything I can, hopefully ONCE! The FD unit has been out of the car 3 years and sitting in an ever growing puddle of fluid. I guess it leaks. Bought a new seal unit from Bernbaum awhile back and I'm almost ready to tackle it. Of course I'm more intimidated now . :-) I'll be here calling for help I'm sure. Thanks for all input here guys. Clay
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Sorry I've been away. Simon, I purchased bearings and seals from Chris at Andy Bernbaum. All fit well with help from the correct tools. As for the FD, this car hasnt run in 35 years. I'm going over it top to bottom. Trying not to leave anything to chance. Clay
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Rear axel done ! Cleaned, blasted, painted with Por-15, new seals, bearings, cups, and vent. Gears and axels all in good shape. This was a big mystery going in but for the most part was nuts and bolts. Could NOT have done it though without the correct tools. THANK YOU to Rich Hartung for the loan policy he offers to us here. These are original dealer / factory tools for these specific jobs. My machine shop friend has a heavy press that worked for the some bearings. However the seals ( in and out ) cups, axels, and some bearings needed these tools to get in and out. On to the Clutch and Fluid Drive rebuilds. This winter the engine !!! Thanks again Rich ! Clay
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I used this template and in came out very nice. Softer leather helped. Glued the seam then stitched it up.
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I am trying to track down the proper ' CLIPS " for my brake lines to frame. 3/16ths Di. tubing None I see online are spesific to my D24 1947, or any of the 46-48 line of mopars. There are some I see available that LOOK identical but are listed as fitting 1962 and up A or B body's Are they the same? Thank you !! Clay
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Good to hear Zen Master as AB and other suppliers either don't sell new shoes with these holes, OR never heard of them. I will proceed as soon as the proper 11" shoes come from AB. Engineering overkill by Dodge back then ? Thank you ! Clay
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Me again. Laying out brake parts to start rebuilding and noticed new shoes didn't have the holes for the Rivets in the "Rod " or Pin that pushes out of the wheel cylinder. Also, on my old shoes only the FRONT shoes used these riveted rods. Even though the parts book shows the rivets used front & rear. Are the not used any more ? Are these new shoes incorrect ? Should they be front and rear ? Thanks Clay
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All good input ! Thanks guys, I tend to stay original when possible. I think they look " right " as well .Thank you as always. New Thread coming. You can tell I'm in the garage today LOL !
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Opinions Please. 1947 Dodge Club Coupe. The new leaf springs I received from Eaton came with new U Bolts. My old U Bolts came off fine, no thread damage. I have cleaned them, bead blasted them, and painted with Por-15. Should I use the original sets to maintain as much " stock " as I can ? OR, are they presumed to be weakened in some way after 68 years and go with the new bolts ? ( Original Bolts have the flattened tops , see photos ) Thanks ! Clay
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Well this answers my question. Thanks!
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Driver side suspension is done. Had to " modify " the coil spring tool. Please tell me what the coil spring " spacer " is for , and why only on the driver's side ? It was a balancing act to get it in there. I know I was just luck it settled into place. Thanks! Clay
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Waiting on two NOS bushes now.
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I was afraid of this. I'll contact AB fir exchange. Thank you Clay
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Leveling the upper and lower CA's
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- Lower Control Arm
- Suspension
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Old one left, new one right.
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Next step. I am learning that all is not what is was or seems to be. Working on the Knuckle unit now and was set to install new " PIN " bushing in the lower end. The OLD one looks threaded and screwed out and smooth back in. The NEW one is similar to the inner upper / lower control arm bushings, as it appears to cuts its way in. I hesitate to just jam the new bushing into the threaded knuckle before consulting with you here. Advice please from all. Many thanks again. Clay
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OK, upper and lower in , and leveled off. Of course I didn't use both shims , only one. I will be saving it for a real alignment some day. On to the knuckle PIN bushings ! I'll be back ..... Clay
