Conn47D24

VERY Timely ! I'm just now about to tackle the manifold. These image and post are great ! Thanks for posting. Clay

Ahh, thanks ALL ! See many threads were it was reversed. Want to be sure and do it once. I have enough practice doing most things 2-3 times till correct ! Yes short flex hose on gauge line , check. Threads all make clear the 20-30% filter efficiency . Change oil every 1000 instead of 3000 to equal that ratio. Is that fuzzy math ? ?

Re: D24 block In advance of connecting oil lines , please check my thoughts here. #1 = oil line to gauge #2 = INLET to byass filter (top #3 = Outlet from oil filter ( bottom of can ) Other ports stay plugged. Am I correct this way? Thank you

On the D24 block behind the water pump, there is the water tube ,and the larger round opening. The back of the water pump only has the tube opening. What is the round hole for?

Thanks PA and all ! The dumb questions always have a simple answer. It seems Mopars attempt at making some of these things idiot-proof ......have failed. ?

Simple (dumb ) question. What is the correct installation of the fan on the water pump? Is there a difference in sides?

Got it ! Yes I've seen the truck type pan set up. I will use this pan. I like the baffles.

Interesting as my block is stamped as D24 #####. Now what?

Update: I dry fitted the pan today. All lines up except the "slot". The dip stick misses it by an inch. My D24 parts book shows a pan with this slot . And the shop manual shows the baffles. I'm baffled! Questions: 1. Will the stick be ok , not hit any moving parts? 2. The stick hole in the block is threaded. Why?

Thanks all. I will check the dip stick location today.

Does anyone recognize the first one I have with the baffles? What type on block would this one be from?

218 ? 1953 Plymouth correct?

Yes Sir ! Looks identical to my 2nd set of pix. Now, what is your engine type ?

How about the baffles and that slot on the side?

Back on track today with the CORRECT external bypass head, and painted block. Next up is the oil pan and I have two type. Would you please tell me if one is correct for my D24 ? First two photos are # 1 choice. Pix 3 & 4 are the 2nd choice ( First picture: what is the "slot" welded to the interior side ? ) Thanks as usual ! Clay

Thebeebe5 What a great thread and build ! My repaired head looks similar, brass weld. I will swap the head as all other options require removal anyway. I have to ask. All that great detailed work and you kept the old head studs. Why not change them ?

Thanks dpollo ! The more I read, I was afraid of that. I do have a correct " non bump " head but it had a repair around the thermo housing. Thought I picked the better of the two. LOL Either way I have to remove the head so I will use the correct one after all. Minor setback. I could see the "barn door" as they say, and got ahead of myself. I have to keep studying these threads. Thanks again ! Clay

Good morning gentlemen, The internal vs external threads here have cause me to pause and panick a bit. Not knowing the difference, I used one of the several heads on my new build. This head has " the bump " yet the block does NOT have the by pass hole I have seen and read about here. The photos show what I have, and I've included a photo of the NOS Mopar copper head gasket I used. I appears to me to NOT have the bypass hole either. Please review these pix and see if I am seeing what I'm afraid of. Question, will this gasket cover the hole in the HEAD and therefore I'm fine? OR .... should I take off this head and use the NON BUMP head ? OR ..... is there more to this ??? Thanks all for bailing me out. Clay

Thanks ALL ! Don I ordered some braided straps today. As for the cable from the battery. I have the stud for the Gen bracket but it's in poor shape. If I connect Positve Batt cable to the first head stud, and use a strap from the other end of the block to the firewall ( as shown in Don's photo ) will that be enough. OR is there a better place to connect the Pos. Batt cable ??? Clay

Many threads here about the importance of propery grounding our 6v pos. Systems. I have painted my 230 ci engine parts. Now that I'm near assembly I question what grounding points should be bare metal to metal contact. Please advise.

Thank you PA !

Does the seal in the timing chain cover require any prep prior to install? I recall the pinion seal needed to be soaked in oil first. Should I do this here as well ? Thanks in advance. Clay

:-(

Comfort Master 54 (Driver side) Heater Repair Kit View File Another cool piece of history of our cars saved. Enjoy ! Submitter Conn47D24 Submitted 10/31/2018 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates