Conn47D24

Excellent ! Thanks PA !

1947 D24. 230ci Well I did not take enough photos on tear down. The parts books lists a stud, threaded on both ends, as one of the cover's "attaching parts". At which position on the cover does this stud fit, and what do the outer threads hold ? Really appreciate info and or photos. Thanks all

After much delay my D-24 230 has begun assembly. Years of scrounged ( and new ) parts are laid out for inventory. Good thing , I was short 4 correct exhaust valves. They arrived today. Cam cleaned up nicely, and the crank I saved from a 1948 cracked block measured within Standard specs. Hope next week continues this pace.

Any other tricks I'm listening . ? Thanks for the photo !

Yes, slot and hole are lined up. It's so tight I guess maybe bending the pin and feeding it through is the game. ?

Advise please on installing the COTTER PIN in the pinion / nut. This is recessed into the flange and very tight. HELP Thanks All !

Here is the " Tool " at installation.

Dave, Frankly I had to " Modify " one. I added the head of an old sledge hammer. It fit across the base of the spring and took up the extra few inches of compression I needed. It took a awhile to figure out. I tried 3 different tools before that. Now there is another method that I've seen. A floor jack under the lower control arm to compress the spring. Seen it on youtube. I would use a chain or heavy duty hoist strap to hold the spring from jumping out. Take a look online.

VERY Carefully !! That spring can take your head off. Special tool, spring compressor can be borrowed or rented. Squeeze the spring that way and then remove the upper control arm bolt from the knuckle. Slow and easy. I had help on the first side then I tackled the other my self. Take LOTS of photos of every step. BIG help on rebuild. Good luck.

PA, This is the stock engine, bell, FD Couple, Driveshaft and rear dif. No Mods at all. Thank you

Navigating through the web of information here and elsewhere I had seen reference to the Angle of the pinion or driveshaft. My engine will be in soon ( er, or later ) and this gave me one more thing to double check with you all. The rear axle has been rebuilt and re-installed with new springs. I recall that there was / is a small bump or short dowel part of the axle housing that fit into a hole in the leaf spring plates on each side. I felt at the time that this was the guide to setting the pinion against the driveshaft correctly. This is all stock, engine driveshaft and axle. Will I be all set with this " Angle " ?? Thanks ALL ! Clay

Has anyone seen this or tried it ? Is this recommended for positive results ? As copied from the Vintage Power Wagon site. "In some cases you may want to drill a 1/32” hole in the top plunger (the piece that opens) of the thermostat towards the outer lip. This allows for circulation before the thermostat opens, reducing deposits in your cooling system and reducing the possibility of pressure build-up. This also helps bleed air from the system, reducing the chance of air pockets which can create hot spots in the engine. Don’t forget to replace the thermostat housing gasket. "

Ok Thank you

PA One more thing.... What is the best way to hold the transmission from turning when tightening the drum nut to torqure value ?? Thanks

LOL , thank you PA ! I'll set the wrench to " grunt" Saw the book values but they had this nut names different from the parts book description. BIG help ! Clay

1947 Dodge D-24 Club Coupe Would someone please tell me the proper torque for the nut that holds the Hand Brake Drum to the Transmission shaft ? MUCH appreciated ! Clay

UPDATE : After studying the recommended sites above, and one other site on how to calculate the correct size shock. I then gave a call to Eaton Springs. I did not realize that my new new leaf springs would, and did change the ride height by about an inch. I was told this may settled back down after driving . In the meantime I have installed a set of Monroe 37073 shocks that fit just fine. Took several measurements and calculations to find the sizes, and then I used the chart from Monroe that The Oil Soup listed here. I will hold on to the Gabriels I had in case this ride height settles down once I'm on the road.

Yes, I am booked already for October Rich THIS year we will get together. Had better luck and more interesting time there compared to Carlise.

Sorry for the delay, I am just back home from a trip that included Carlise PA Chrysler Nationals. Thank you all for the info, big help! I will check out the correct shocks . As for Carlise, Our days there may me done. It's all 60s and 70s muscle now. Two vendors I've bought from over the phone were there. Nice to met Ed Speigle and Mike from Mitchel ( Obsolete Mopar ) in person , but BOTH said the same thing. " Nothing here for you " ! Nice trip anyway.

Today's question. Searched Threads here with no clear answer. My Club Coupe is on the ground full weight in the rear. I went to install rear shocks and at the FULLY extended length they are JUST short ( approx 1/4-1/2 " ) of sliding on to the mounts. Studs seem to be approx. 21" apart Question: Even if they slid on at full extention, wouldn't that be a problem at the first pot hole ? Some travel up, as well as down is needed? Wrong shocks ? Does anyone have a current application part # like NAPA or other modern equivalent? Thank you All Clay

Exactly

I have been working on the chrome for many years. Large items done. Waiting on $400. Worth of small bits now. What do the boat Owners say about a hole in the water where you put your money??

Well, long story but this is a barter transaction. I'm a Realtor , sold his house several years ago. I've had access to a shop for the last few years it's been invaluable to me cleaning and prepping and Sandblasting parts.

Machine shop is getting close on my engine rebuild. Giving her a bath before flatbed trip to the shop. 5 years of dirt on top of the 30 years of dirt ! Body and paint later this summer. If all goes well I'll be in the garage all winter mounting trim , chrome and anything else I can get done.