Local2ED

I once brought home a not running 1950 Dodge B2B pick-up. I played around with it for 2/3 days as it was always on the verge of starting but not quite there. Sounded like it was flooded and of course the plugs showed wet from lack of running. The spark, to me looked ok. Finally relented and put in a new condenser I had. Got in, pulled choke and pressed the gas pedal, turned the key and hit the starter pedal and it started right away.

I use a 4" Rigid pipe wrench on the flare nuts to break them loose. Never had any luck with vise grips.

Couple years back picked up a 1967 Chrysler Newport from an estate sale. Hadn't run in don't know how long, but had been garaged. Got it running right away and drove it around town on the bias-ply tires that had very good thread on them but had no idea of how old. The more I drove on those tires the more tread pieces I would hear and see flying off the tires but the tires never went flat. I put rims and radials from another car I wasn't driving at the time just to play around with the Chrysler Newport. I didn't plan on keeping it so when I sold it I switched back to the bias-ply, several missing the tread, and told the buyer once again they were going to need tires.

They were a modern well known brand of radials that I have used on many of the old cars I have owned and never experienced a problem with them with over tens of thousands of miles driven on them spread out over several vehicles.

Wrong. Couple years back went to a car show about 70 miles away. Drove on the highway there just fine as usual. Coming home on the highway started to feel a slight vibration that got worse the closer I got to home. At that point I got off the highway and was taking local roads, no more than 30mph, to get home. Right rear tire blew out . The treads looked like they had a lot of miles left on them but the belts shifted, the vibration I felt, and the tire probably overheated and blew. When I checked the date codes the tires were 7 or 8 years old, which I had bought new and didn't realize I had them on that long. Bought five new tires after that.

Is the inertia switch from a specific car or are they universal? Can the mechanical fuel pump pull fuel through the electric or is it eliminated? I would like to install an electric just for priming the carb after long periods of sitting. Thanks.

I pointed out the vague answer I got from Haggarty years ago concerning "pleasure driving" as opposed to car show activities. I provided my input so others can question just exactly what their getting into before a claim is made. My statement of driving where I want when I want is my personal preference and not intended to tell anyone what to do.

If I can't drive my cars when and where I want their not worth owning too me.

The last time I was insured with Haggarty, it's been about ten years ago, I was told by someone from their office that the coverage was for driving to and from car show type events and if just a pleasure drive and a accident happened, coverage would be determined on a case by case basis. I didn't like the vagueness of the persons answer and it is possible that person did not know what they were talking about so I cancelled the policy. I insured with my regular insurer and drive the vehicle as a daily driver, to work, vacation, leave it parked outside if needed with no worries of coverage.

I wore Redwing boots, the Irish Setters for 30+ years until I discovered they were made in China now. I found Thorogood boots matches them in quality and are made in USA. Round house work clothes are as good as Carhart and are made here.

I forgot about this post. When I did the oil change I spoke of I noticed that the bottom 25% of the oil filter and the bottom of the canister were coated with a gray paste-like substance that was hindering the drain-back of the oil. I believe it was the STP oil treatment with ZDDP that was the cause because I had been using it for a few oil changes. I always by my oil in 5 gallon pails so after I cleaned out the canister blew out the lines I used the same brand oil without the additive and have never had it leak again.

Change the channel.

I use 2, 3" pieces of 2"X2" angle iron. One side is drilled for a head bolt the other side is drilled for a shackle. I then use a chain hooked to the shackle.

My apologies for jumping in here but I have the same problem for a while now. I've done all the mentioned fixes above and still have the small leak. I will be due for an oil change in the coming weeks and the only other thing I thought of is maybe the drain back to the engine could be partially plugged not letting the oil drain back fast enough and the pressure is pushing out the oil where the cap seals. Mine has been seeping for the last two oil changes. I'm going to remove the filter housing and hard line and blow out the passage's Anybody ever encounter a partial or any blockage in the return side? Thanks.

Two hammers should never be used to strike each other, unless of course your goal is to introduce some shrapnel into yours or someone near you body.

Napa and Rock auto should have mechanical parts for it.

Have you put in a new fuel filter since you bought the truck? If not I would change it asap just so you have a baseline on your fuel pressure. On my 1999, it runs 14-15 psi. at idle and pulling hard drops to 10 psi.

I had the same problem on my 1958 Dodge Coronet 6cyl. one time. I thought the top nut was leaking and replaced the washer, pounded out the hole flat, still leaked. I then remembered reading somewhere to double up the large flat gaskets to make the canister seal and that worked. Apparently the Napa filter i just installed was slightly taller than the Purolator filter I replaced. A lesson learned: Do not wait for the night before you plan to take your old car out of state for a car show/doing weekend to change your oil. I discovered the leak the morning we were set to leave when checking the oil after the car was loaded. Not wanting to spend time trouble-shooting a problem I never had before, we moved our things into our "normal" car and continued on our way.

If you don't already know this, lift pump fuel pressure is critical to keeping the vp44 injection pump alive. You need a fuel pressure gauge ASAP. I don't mean to scare you but look into "Cummins 53 block", something to watch out for. Cummins Forum is a good place to go to keep your truck running.

Mystik JT-8 from Farm & Fleet. Several times a year on sale with rebate 5 gal. pail comes out to $25.00. I buy several a year. I'd seen the local farmers stocking up when it's on sale and figured if they use it in their costly equipment it's good enough for me.

I've had very good luck with 6V batteries from Farm & Fleet.

Call your secretary of state office and inquire about a bonded title. I read several years ago in Old Cars Weekly that those title companies that are in the car magazines operate in a "grey" area of titling.

Just had to clean the points on a 1957 Dodge Sierra 325 cuin. v/8 project this summer. The car never failed to start for me, let it sit for a month and no spark/start. Filed the points and it started immediately. This car also sits outside, for now.

BTDT with a 4spd on a wooden floor garage. Who says I need a clutch alignment tool? I'll just align it while I hold up the trans. LOL Sadly I didn't learn anything the first time and when I blew the clutch a year later racing I still used the trans to line it up when I put the next clutch in. Teenagers, we had some bright ideas didn't we?

Thanks for the reply. What I neglected to add in my first post was the pan was dropped, it was very clean, and fresh DexIII/Mercon was used before I put the car back on the road for the first time in my ownership. It started to exhibit the problem right away. I drove it for 1K or 2K miles to see if it would work itself out from sitting for I don't know how long. The second time I dropped the pan was to double check my band adjustments from the first time I dropped the pan. I also wanted to verify the full engagement of the shift detents and adjust the shift cable, fresh fluid was also used at the time. So as we speak I have about 5K miles on it with two fluid changes.