Local2ED

I once brought home a not running 1950 Dodge B2B pick-up. I played around with it for 2/3 days as it was always on the verge of starting but not quite there. Sounded like it was flooded and of course the plugs showed wet from lack of running. The spark, to me looked ok. Finally relented and put in a new condenser I had. Got in, pulled choke and pressed the gas pedal, turned the key and hit the starter pedal and it started right away.

I use a 4" Rigid pipe wrench on the flare nuts to break them loose. Never had any luck with vise grips.

Couple years back picked up a 1967 Chrysler Newport from an estate sale. Hadn't run in don't know how long, but had been garaged. Got it running right away and drove it around town on the bias-ply tires that had very good thread on them but had no idea of how old. The more I drove on those tires the more tread pieces I would hear and see flying off the tires but the tires never went flat. I put rims and radials from another car I wasn't driving at the time just to play around with the Chrysler Newport. I didn't plan on keeping it so when I sold it I switched back to the bias-ply, several missing the tread, and told the buyer once again they were going to need tires.

They were a modern well known brand of radials that I have used on many of the old cars I have owned and never experienced a problem with them with over tens of thousands of miles driven on them spread out over several vehicles.

Wrong. Couple years back went to a car show about 70 miles away. Drove on the highway there just fine as usual. Coming home on the highway started to feel a slight vibration that got worse the closer I got to home. At that point I got off the highway and was taking local roads, no more than 30mph, to get home. Right rear tire blew out . The treads looked like they had a lot of miles left on them but the belts shifted, the vibration I felt, and the tire probably overheated and blew. When I checked the date codes the tires were 7 or 8 years old, which I had bought new and didn't realize I had them on that long. Bought five new tires after that.

Is the inertia switch from a specific car or are they universal? Can the mechanical fuel pump pull fuel through the electric or is it eliminated? I would like to install an electric just for priming the carb after long periods of sitting. Thanks.

I pointed out the vague answer I got from Haggarty years ago concerning "pleasure driving" as opposed to car show activities. I provided my input so others can question just exactly what their getting into before a claim is made. My statement of driving where I want when I want is my personal preference and not intended to tell anyone what to do.

If I can't drive my cars when and where I want their not worth owning too me.

The last time I was insured with Haggarty, it's been about ten years ago, I was told by someone from their office that the coverage was for driving to and from car show type events and if just a pleasure drive and a accident happened, coverage would be determined on a case by case basis. I didn't like the vagueness of the persons answer and it is possible that person did not know what they were talking about so I cancelled the policy. I insured with my regular insurer and drive the vehicle as a daily driver, to work, vacation, leave it parked outside if needed with no worries of coverage.

I wore Redwing boots, the Irish Setters for 30+ years until I discovered they were made in China now. I found Thorogood boots matches them in quality and are made in USA. Round house work clothes are as good as Carhart and are made here.

I forgot about this post. When I did the oil change I spoke of I noticed that the bottom 25% of the oil filter and the bottom of the canister were coated with a gray paste-like substance that was hindering the drain-back of the oil. I believe it was the STP oil treatment with ZDDP that was the cause because I had been using it for a few oil changes. I always by my oil in 5 gallon pails so after I cleaned out the canister blew out the lines I used the same brand oil without the additive and have never had it leak again.

Change the channel.

I use 2, 3" pieces of 2"X2" angle iron. One side is drilled for a head bolt the other side is drilled for a shackle. I then use a chain hooked to the shackle.

My apologies for jumping in here but I have the same problem for a while now. I've done all the mentioned fixes above and still have the small leak. I will be due for an oil change in the coming weeks and the only other thing I thought of is maybe the drain back to the engine could be partially plugged not letting the oil drain back fast enough and the pressure is pushing out the oil where the cap seals. Mine has been seeping for the last two oil changes. I'm going to remove the filter housing and hard line and blow out the passage's Anybody ever encounter a partial or any blockage in the return side? Thanks.

Two hammers should never be used to strike each other, unless of course your goal is to introduce some shrapnel into yours or someone near you body.