p24-1953

currently none of my new items are running through the key, which i would like to change because it would be nice to turn the key off and have everything go off. both items are wired from the hot side of the starter cyl. and go through a 50 amp switch. tim, i am running a 6v supplemental fan, so this is not an additional load on the convertor. Also, i am using the factory supplied guage of wire so i hope thats good enough. How would i wire in a relay for these 2 items?

are our stock ignition switches rated for any certain amps.? as I upgrade things and start running electric fans and a/c, lights...will i need to replace the ignition switch, or is it okay to runn all these item, 40-50 amps through the stock unit?

thats what the manual says the stock tube radion draws. or at least it uses a 15 amp fuse

i have switched over to a + ground alt. but was thinking, what was the amp rating of or stock generators? arn't they 35 amps, and that is at crusing speed? what was the rating a idle? what got me wondering this is if our headlights are 12 amps, and igniton is 5 amps, and the raido is 14 amps, interior lamps are 3 amps, wiper heater ect.... how did it keep the battery charged... its amazing we wernt stranded on some dark cold rainy night..

okay, so it looks like a electric fan is in my future, so here are my questions. (it only overheats with the a/c on in standing traffic) due to the size of our stock 6 blad fan and shroud, i can not install a electric fan in a puller config, so should i : a: install a 1500 cfm puller and remove the stock fan completly? (is that enough cooling by itself? b: install a 1500 cfm puller on a thermostat control and a el-cheapo flex flan (since it is shallower it will fit with the electric fan i think....) would the flex fan help add to the cfm rating? c: install a smaller 10" fan pusher fan rated at 900 cfm, off center in front of the a/c condensor, i can not center a larger fan in a pussher config due to the hood latch brace. d: other ideas? i have been toying with the secondary heater core mounted in a remote location.... would that help

there are quite a few 6 volt fans. i thinks macs are about 600 cfm and use 4 amps. the big ones are 16" -1500 cfms, and use 10 amps.... does anyone know how many cfms are stock fans are rated for? time i am a little ove the 1" gap between the condensor and radiator due to the hose conection. i am planning to install a foam seal to help fix the gap. should i do a pusher or puller? arnt pullers more efficent?

after rechecking my seal to the hood i notice it is probally so brittle that it is not sealing tightly to the hood, what would be reccomended to replace this. also i am thinking that it has been 15 years since the engine was rebuilt , should i pop out a freeze plug and see how much stuff i have collected in the block? how hard is it to remove and replaece a plug

tim the stock fan shroud is intact, with a 6 blade fan... the radiator to hood seal is complete and intact, (but hard and brittle) where would i get a more agresssvie pitch fan blade? no i have not taken an actual temp... i wish the temp guage avtually had numbers on it like my other cars i agree if its getting too hot at 87 it wont make it in 100+. im trying to nip this problem in the butt early in the year

with the a/c off it typically wont go above more than 3/4 of the guage, so the a/c is diffently the cause of the problem today

took the plymouth for about 100 mile trip today and we ran the a/c the entire way. it cooled great, but it seems like i will need a electric fan to help cool the car while sitting in traffic when the a/c's on. while on the open road the temp guage will stay near perfect center, but in stop and go it seems to go up to the end of the line towards the hot, it never hits the "h" but i noticed that when it is higher on the scale i have very little power, and i can hear what i think is valve ticking sometimes. it has never boiled over, but is it getting to high? is the loss of power and ticking a bad sign? I read that some of you guys talk about im runnign 180, or 210.... but how do you guys know that do soem guages read with temps? is the 53 the only one labled C --- H what are the signs that i have overheated?

how does the "u" joint in our drive lines fail? what are the signs of a failing joint? what happens when one fails?

although tim, george informed me that he could infact install the fast second in my car because the main gear set from a standard 3 speed could be mated to the hydrive input shaft. so again aside from the input shaft it sound like the internal parts are interchangeable

tim your are correct I supplied george with a nos input shaft and he supplied the remainder of the hydrive gearing

also a easy why to identify a hydrive is it will have neutral saftey switch in the gear selector housing

the hydrive should be easly identifiable from the torque convertor. my stock 53 did have a 8 bolt crank, and has a auto choke mounted to the manifold. by the way when set up right the hydrive is great to drive around. george asche informed me that aside from the beefed up input shaft the transmisson internals are the same

cant show all my cards at once....

okay heres what i have been up to for the past few months.... you have two options watch the video or read the write up they say the same thing.... part 1 http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x117/ykp53/ac%20install/?action=view&current=MOV02351.flv part 2 http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x117/ykp53/ac%20install/?action=view&current=MOV02352.flv paint...Check reworked brakes...Check rewired.... Check New interior.... Check overdrive transmission... i can now check it off the list. I had George asche build me a overdrive transmission that would work with the hydrive transmission.. I supplied him with NOS input shafts and hydrive internals. The original hydrive gear set has a 1.65 second gear, (in between the slow 1.5 and the fast 1.85 second gear) this has been the best upgrade i have done to the car. With the 2.77 torque multiplication of the torque converter and the overdrive, In second i can easily keep up with traffic taking off from lights and running around town. Heck, 3rd keeps up decent with in town traffic and there is nothing like cruising at 75 on the freeway.... A/C.... i can now check it off the list. I went about this in an unusual way and am interested to hear yalls thoughts and opinions. Repeatedly on this forum and other i was told that you could not install a/c on a 6 volt car. i was asked over and over "why would you want to due that? just to keep the radio?" the radio was part of it but only a little part. i have asked around and have been told that i was looking somewhere in the $350-$450 range to replace all the blowers, relays, lights, wipers, horn relays and radio. This all seemed a little excessive when the car ran great on 6 volt. so after being told no so many times in the auto world, i asked someone else. i started asking on electronic forums how you could convert 6 volt to 12volt. they instructed me on how to build a 6 volt-12vlts buck-boost converter. the device can produce 13.4 volts at 10 amps from a 6 volt source. i originally built one, but since it was using vibrator style set up it was extremely noise, (it could be heard over the running engine) i ended up buying a solid state version. i installed a under dash a/c unit that was built with a 6volt blower motor and ran the a/c clutch off the converter. The compressor is installed using the original generator bracket, and the new 65 amp 6 volt positive ground alternator is installed "piggyback" on the compressor like a modern jeep engine. I have ran the system around town for about two weeks and it has been going problem free (knock on wood) for a week... it can produce 33 deg air temp at the grill when the outside air is 90 and easily cools the front seat and will cool the entire car after about 20 mins. it cost me about $100 to install the convertor , including the parts for the first one i built. if it fails i still can always upgrade everything to 12 volt. I did not have to change any relays or bulbs my wipers, heater and defrost and radio all work, infact i can put the old generator back on and return everything to stock. So wha tdo yous guys think? do you see any potenial problems? is this the rue goldberg method to a/c?

who or what is AJJ?

1.) Whats driving the 12v conversion? i chose to rewire mine piece by piece, following the guide. i bought all my supplies at summit and it cost less than 75 if i remember right. ( granted all my wire is yellow orange and green so it does not look stock?) ps. i belive that a/c can run on 6 volt, check out my other post in a few mins..... 2.) call george asche for the transmission he can build you a fluid drive with overdrive. it runs about 1800 but will include everything you need. i had him build me one for my hy-drive equiped car and it is by far the best up grade i have done. The torque multipilication and overdrive really makes these cars preform well in town and on the highway in third. i very rarely ever use any other gears or the clutch. 3,) is the ignition upgrade only because of 12 volt?

is #2 is a reverse light sensor.

is #2 is a reverse light sensor.

the evap fan kept working and the clutch would eventually engage, but when i replaced that part everything works just fine. strange, but im okay with that becasue it works.

found the problem... as a last ditch effort i replaced the factory supplied cuircut breaker, and low and behold alll of the problems i was having went away. it must have beeen defective and restricted the amps a little to much so that the clutch was not getting the full 7 amps required to engage the clutch intially.

tim, i for got to wrap the black take on the expansion valve. would that do it? okay i had sketched up a diagrahm of the electrical system but due to scanner error i can not post it. the electrical has a 12v input going into a 3 way switch that controls the fan speed. from the back of this a blue wire goes to a thermostat. then the blue wire goes to a binary saftey switch on the drier, then on to the compressor. heres the tests i did: 1: put a jumper on the binary saftey switch on the drier. i still got the clicking clutch. 2: checked voltage at the clutch 13.4 volts ? amps(i dont know how to test amps) 3: checks coil resistance 4.2 ohms - Okay 4: place jumper to remove thermosat... Still got the clicking 5: placed guages on high and low with car off... My guages have a outer ring of number labled R134a and a inner ring labled psi both of mine read 25(r134a) or 85 psi. 6: with the car running the guages read low side -7(r134a) or 19 psi. High side reads 75(r134a) or 325psi what do i need to check now? it does not look like the clutch is slipping it looks like it is just switching on and off. would a low amp situation cause this. A Sanden tech emailed me that i need to check that but i dont know how.

well a little update to day ..it is closer to 90 and the clutch cycling lasted for a min or so. I am concerened that i will damage the clutch if i let it go, and apperantly hot rod air is now out of business so i cant ask them. what could cause the clutch to cycle on and off? i am getting 13.4 volts, and it happens even if you bypass the low pressure saftey switch.