p24-1953

wel took it out for adrive this morning and didnt die of carbon monoxide posining

okay 6.5 hrs, later (yes the wife helped keep track) i have the manifold back on. unfortunatly it is being held by 12 bolts, i could not get the last one (closest to the cab) to come out. i heated, and turned, heated and sprayed, heated and waxed, heated and prayed. none of that helped. i could not use the "hockypuck" stud removed, because it was to deep to get a socket on, i could not use the fancy type because, they too were also too deep to get a socket on. so i was left to a pair of vice grips. so i went back to heating and spraying. i have come to the conclusion that this one stud had morphed and actually become part of the block. after saying a few choice words i decided that i had been beat. if i had snaped stud off at the block there would be no way for me to drill straight in to the block, even with a right hand adapter i could not get a drill back to that area and i do not feel like removing the engine. So, i put it all back together, filled it up and started it up. no water leaks and it now has a vacumme of 19 at idle. not to shabby. i have about 2 to 3 threads sticking out past the flange so i will try to find a tapered nut to install on it thinking that if i cant get a little something on it it would be beter than nothing, but in reality what is the worst thing that could happen by driving around with 12 bolts? hw bad could the exhasut leak be? will it do any harm to the engine?

Rob/boxer, so far i would have to say if your going to remove your manifold start spraying the bolts now. i have been doing two or three sprays of liquid wrench or kroil oil for the last 4 days. i though i was going to have a walk in the park untill the last two.

well for what its worth... i had the engine rebuilt 18 years ago. (by a professional since is was only 15) and after redaing these comments i started to look at the nuts i had removed. so far 11 brass nuts, 2 steel. guess which ones i cant get off. i looks like they ran out and just used what ever they had laying around. the brass ones broke free very easly. *note to self make sure new studs have brass nuts.. should i just replace all of them?*

i ended up finding a thin wall 12 pt socket that would fit between the header and the bolt but the thing still wont budge. little hesitant of using a torch while the manifold is still on the car. knowing my luck i would break it. im half tempted to get a 3 foot cheater bar and just snap this one off also.

tim . could i cut that one nut off with a dremal or something? it the top one closets to the cab

edit that first post it should say i "CANT" get a drill to it.

well i started working again this morning after letting the last two bolts sit over night, and on the first try "SNAP" i broke the last stud off flash with the manifold flange. the next to last one i can not get a socket on and my wrench is starting to round over the edges. how do i get this one off. can i cut it off? What do i need to do about the last one? i CAN'T get a drill in there to drill it out. can i secure the manifold with out using it? any thoughts? i guess im going to go buy some ATF/ and acetone. liquid wrench, wd40, and pb blaster are not working.

well in about 45 mins i got 11 of the bolts off. the last 2 i need to get a deep socket to get to them, wrench wont fit on them. I had 2 studs back out, should i replace the studs that came out (the threads on one are are kinda boogered up at the end) and bolts while im here or just reuse the old ones some are starting to round off. The studs and two longer bolts, do i need to place thread sealant on them prior to reinstall? What torque do i need to retighten to? Do i need to use a gasket sealer, in additon to the felpro gasket? How in the heck am i supposed to get the last bolt off? i cant even get a wrench to fit on it because of the fire wall? do i need to come in from the bottom?

What's RMA?

work with me here folks... Husband: well dear i have to replace the intake gasket.. its only 6 dollars Wife: okay husband: and while im at it i should replace the head gasket also. its only $25 Wife: okay Husband: and while im at it i should proably mill the head to make sure its good and flat to seal well. it wont cost much to mill it down Wife: Okay Husband:And since i've got it off i should maybe install that new dual intake and exhaust.. Wife: how much is that Husband: its. um.. um only mumff Wife: what? How much? I dint understand you. husband: honey the price isnt important , the forum says i should do it....

Do you gain anything by just installing a milled head?

have you tryed to see if shadburns will sell just fabric? they had some nice vintage repro's and NOS rolls, when i went, the even we able to match the turquoise paint almost exactly. the had a really nice 53 caddy fabric i liked. have you thought about some place like scotts in atl? we bought fabric to redo a chair and love seat for $5 yrd. its only once a month and its comming up next weekend.

so is this time to switch to dual? shoudl i replace the head gasket while im at it? it is 20+ years old

Do you have to remove both intake and exhaust to change the gasket?

well i have been chasing a carb that drains out when sitting. i thought that mayby i just rebuilt the carb wrong. I also thought that the gasket on the carb were not sealing well, (had a constant vaccum of 12-14). i noticed that if i sprayed carb cleaner or start fluid at the base the idle would smooth out, so i cut new gaskets and reinstalled everything but the car still ran very poorly. i ended up callin "uncle" and took it in to a carb. shop and had them rebuild the carb. it turns out that i had one bad "well seal" in the carb but more importantly, they noticed that i have vacuum leak at the intake manifold. how hard is it to replace this gasket? This would cause the car to run rich? where can i get this gasket at?

i will file for mine in 35 years. who wants to bet i dont get a dime back for what i will put in

it seems that my draining carb issue is back with a vengance. it sputtered and cut out the other day so i opened the top and sure enough it was empty. im guessing either the carb it trashed and leaking like a sieve, or the fuel pump is going out but i will let everyone know when i figure it out. once i get the carb thing figured out i will start chasing the fan issue again. im hoping that the flex fan will keep the car cool in town, and im okay with a little warmer on the freeway. aslong as i dont over heat.

well i installed the new 7 blade flex fan and spacer. I took the car out to church and lunch and so forth today and in 99 deg plus weather the temp guage never when past 3/4, whith just the flex fan. if i also used the electric fan it stayed between 1/2 to 3/4 on the temp guage. A/C kept the car nice and cool. I have noticed that the temp is a little higher on the freeway with the flex fan, but much cooler in stop and go. Now the new problem, the car is cutting out as i come to a stop. it only happens if im slowwing down as im turning, or slowing down while going down a hill, i am wondering if it starved for fuel, or if the coil is geting to hot and not working properly. Any ideas? wouldnt the coil cut out all the time?

i havnt checked the vacuum advance but i know i am pulling a good strong vacuum at the manifold. i'm like you i dont think i messed up the 2 ball's and i hate to dissamble the carb again, but if that solves the problem great. how did you check the distributor?

what problems would that cause in the long term? im thinking this is causing my 10mpg problem

they are both there.... but i could have put them in the wrong hole.....i will check that out. can anyone say which one the larger one goes in?

that was my first thought also. it was evaporating or boiling out after driving the car when it was hot, but i filled it today and let it sit when the car was cool and it still drained. i cant imagine that gas would evaporate that quickly with the carb lid on it. i disassembled the carb tonight and the only thing i could find was one seal was a little off on the step up valve, so I cut a new one and reassembled. we will see if it is empty tomorrow, or Monday.

don, cont get testy and start treating me like micheal here....

well today it 89 with a heat index of 94 a slight breeze comming from the north north west at 4mph.. tha last carb had a crack in the bowl near the plug on the bottom and clearly was leaking from there. could i use a gasket making material to seal the threads on the step up valve? i dont think its the accelerator pump because fluid will stay in the accelerator pump but the rest of the car will be dry, even if it has sat a few days, or a few hours.