p24-1953

so don your thinking the heat is causing the spring to loose tension and increase the idle? so when its high i should be able to pull the throtle back and lower the idle to test that idea correct?

Today I noticed that the warmer the temp guage read, the faster my idle increased. I have the stock carb and intake with a man. choke. What could cause this? what is the reccomended steps to set the idle speed properly?

thanks guys

does anyone know what diameter we need?

i dont know it looks like the are leaking from the center of the plug not the outside edge. so i dont know if sealant will fix this.

well, what can I say they made these cars too reliable. For the past 6 or so months the car has been nothing but problem free. go out pull the choke turn the key and take off. it has been fantastic. the wife and i have even taken it on several longer 100+ mile trips. unfortunatly when things are going so smoothly you start to take the forum for granted. Well the old gal has sent me back to the collective wisdom of the forum. today after going to church I noticed a slight puddle of anti- freeze below her and sure enough she is leaking from 2 freeze plugs one on each side of the distributor. what do i need to do to change them? how hard it is? can it be done with the engine in the car? What else should i look for? (the other ones that i can see look good.) thanks in advance and i hope you will all take me back.

not to hyjack the thread but i have these same problems with my single carb. So im listening.

i agree with kevin. is there fluid in the car? Can you get fluid at the bleeder screws at the brakes? If you dont get any help PM me and i can try to walk you through a few things

well it happened 50 years in texas and no rust. 5 years in georgia and it rusts. i had noticed that i had a little bubbling around the rear dog leg. there was no sign of rust below the rocker and the drain holes were clean, no rust on the underside or under the sill mat so i thought it was just running down the seam and rusting. today as i was checking the tire i pushed a little on it and my finger went through. As i pulled my finger out i had a trail of dirt fall out. The pile is what came out on its own with out the help of the air compressor. All of the drains were open. This was just collected at the rear of the rocker. i felt around the best i could and the metal that remains has no play in it it appears that the seam was the weak point. so how do i fix this. will i need to replace the whole rocker and dogleg or should i just be able to weld a patch on it? I wonder how this dirt got in there to start with. I popped the sills off of the other 3 doors and the inside of the rockers looks good and clean no rust so apperantly it has just collected in this area.

okay i got a new problem/issue. my 62 300/327 has a m21 4 speed installed. a few times in the past when i first start out the car has an issue going into gear. if i put it into "gear" and pull my foot off the clutch like normal the car will just stall out no matter how much gas i give it. I dosent move at all. if i pop the clutch with no gas it dies instantly. I first thought that maybe the shift linkage was binding, but why would it die when i release the clutch if it was not in gear? Today when it did it i thought i would see what would happen if I i turned the key with it in gear, (since i have no neutral saftey switch) when i do this normaly the car will lurch, today nothing it wouldnt even turn over... So what do you guys think... is the transmission binding up? what could cause this? thank heavens it drives good once you get it into gear once. I have noticed that if i dont put it into neutral when i stop i dont seem to have this problem. When it does happen i just have to violently row through the gears untill all of a sudden i get it to move.

what exactly does placing a dollar bill over the exhaust pipe show? if it occasionaly sucks in is that a bad valve? (exahust) what will happen if you continue to run it? it just started running rought at idle today. and i thought it sounded a litle different. could a bad spark plug or wire cause these symptoms? i had planned on driving it to thanksgiving tommmorow. could i? (this is on the wife's d/d)

im 33 and got my 53' when i was 14

what are the symptoms of the two failing? i have got it messed up in my mind. if i have a sound when the clutch is in ... it is the throw out failing if the noise is when the clutch is in and the car in neutral then it would be the pilot bearing going out correct?

can you get the power supply for the electric choke from the positive terminal on the coil. is this a safe place to draw from?

so change of plans..... i have a 2003 ssr that i use as a daily driver, but i actually only drive it 3 days a week because of i drive the plymouth so much and the fact that since it is a 2 seater my wife and new baby boy cant ride in it at the same time. For these reasons we decided to sell it and get something that would fit all three of us easily. my wife found a car she likes. it is a 62 impala ss that has a documented 44k miles and has had a frame off restoration. the seller want to by a ssr so it makes since to do a even trade. here are the questions: 1. would you make a even trade? the ssr value is 18-24k the impala is 24k-28k? 2. how do you do a no cost vehical switch? 3. is the impala a good choice as a daily driver? it has been 500 miles and 12 months since the frame off restoration. every step is documented by photos and recipets (4" thick binder comes with the car.) a few more pics.. http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x117/ykp53/Impala/?albumview=slideshow

just a intersting FYI texas is the only state that is allowed to fly their state flag at a equal heigth to the US flag.

isnt the mortage deduction minor typicaly compared to the intrest paid on a mortage?

if you had the chance to sell your car to pay off your house would you? i drive a 2003 ssr and it has a blue book value of 18-21k which would pay off my house, or should i just wait the 3 years. what would you do?

wide open? were you trying to out run the wind? you need to slow down and let it cool the engine.

although its not 100% scientific, i am really impressed with this product. after replacing my head gasket, i decided to give this stuf a shot. when i was running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water my a/c fan would kick on at 200. I am now running a 15% anitfreeze mix and a bottle of water wetter. i felt like my temps had been down, but today after running erands during lunch i noticed that with my a/c on high and in stop and go traffic my fan never had to kick on. (granted its only 90 here and not 100 degrees like most of the summer, but i still think im impressed.) Has anyone else had sucess or failure with this product? is it just snake oil?

what causes a head gaskets to fail? How does a overly hot condition cause one to fail?

are you using autocad, revit or something else? have you played with sketch up? drop me a line if you need any help

tim, when i installed the a/c i used a cool only unit so i still have the original controls under the dash and they still work. I should just leave the controls in the glovebox, but it would be nice to be able to turn it on and off with opening the glove box every time. TIm i will give you a call. So far with all the modifications (except the overdrive) it could go back to stock easily.... so i hate to cut into the dash.

thats where i installed the overdrive toggle from george asche, and i dont want to drill another hole

1. i am needing to hide a simple on/off switch for the electric fan in the dash of the plymouth. so as im looking at my dash i keep going to the lighter..... when the lighter is pushed in it completes a path....pulled out the path is broken... so if i removed the lead wire from the alt. and connect this wire as part of the ground path using the lighter to complete the ground path. wouldnt my lighter would be my switch..... the positive would be always connected. wouldnt this work? is this a bad idea? 2. if this is a bad idea how do you remove the lighter from the dash? i will just install the flip switch in the exg. hole. i have twisted, pulled and tugged but it wouldnt come out.